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allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 04/02/2020 4:50 AM
Morning Ed, I haven't done any green coffee hoarding yet but am hoping the supplies don't end up like the toilet paper isles!

snwcmpr
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· 03/31/2020 2:53 PM
Hey Ed. Thanks. roar

homeroaster
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· 03/31/2020 11:21 AM
Hey quarantined home roasters! I hope you have great coffee! If they have a run on coffee, I hope you're set with your great home roast! Find me on Facebook! Ed Needham

snwcmpr
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· 03/25/2020 11:49 AM
New Rochelle in the news. I think of you every time I hear it. ... Please stay safe.

allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 03/21/2020 7:36 AM
Good morning homeroasters morning Everyone is hopefully staying healthy through this. Hang in there and stay safe!

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If you use a HG/BM don't miss this - New Design Addition
PeteH
After watching Chad's videos of his HG/BM setup I kept thinking there had to be another way beside sticking the nose of the heatgun down through the hole in the lid of the BM. I tried it and almost melted my lid.

Here's a mod of my own design that I have never seen before on any forum. It truly makes it "hands free" and you can use the Router speed control to vary the roasting temp to where you want it.

I have seen other people make a cover for the BM, I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in mine. The flexible aluminum hose is a Heat manifold riser hose from an auto supply store. It's 18" long and cost $2.99, it has a light plastic coating so be sure and burn it off first before roasting a batch.

I used a Harbor Freight heat gun on sale for $9.99. There is a small screw on the bottom of the front protective cover, if you remove it you have about 3" of the metal tube of the heat gun sticking out to slide the 1 1/2" aluminum tubing onto and fasten it on with.

It works beautifully and brings off a 1# batch in about 12 minutes or so. You can speed it up or slow it down as you wish.
PeteH attached the following image:
hgnew1-1[954][957].jpg

Edited by seedlings on 05/20/2008 8:28 AM
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
PeteH
Here's a picture of the cover I put a hole in for the Aluminum tubing, you can see I bent one edge of it up to let the chaff and some air escape and also to see into to check the roast. I just use a flashlight to ess down into the beans.

The hose is very flexible and when I am finished I just lift it out of the hole, pull the can and dump it into my colander.
PeteH attached the following image:
cover1[955][958].jpg

Edited by seedlings on 05/20/2008 8:30 AM
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
ginny
SWEET,

where does your probe go?

thanks,

ginny

s:2s:2
 
seedlings
That IS hands free! s:2 Thoughtful work, there, Pete. I like the slide on cover, too!

Oh, and LOVE the workshop ;)

Thanks!
CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH

Quote

ginny wrote:
SWEET,

where does your probe go?

thanks,

ginny

s:2s:2


I drilled a hole through the side and into the can about 1.5" from the bottom. I got some 5/32" brass tubing from Hobby Lobby and it sticks about 1/2" into the can, then I insert a thermocouple lead into it and push it into the can. That holds it into the beans better than just sticking the TC into it.
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
PeteH

Quote

seedlings wrote:
That IS hands free! s:2 Thoughtful work, there, Pete. I like the slide on cover, too!

Oh, and LOVE the workshop ;)

Thanks!
CHAD


Glad you like it Chad, I knew you would. :) It really has a different personality as a roaster now. The batches are much more consistent and easily repeatable.

I have to have the router speed control on Variable now and keep turning it down as it gets to about 350 or so. I am going to shorten the aluminum tubing some, it doesn't need all that length. Maybe someone else will improve on my idea, hopefully this will get some ideas flowing. The lid is made from a large coffee can with the bottom cut off and flattened.

My next task is to make the sliding cover a tight fit and add a a chaff collector to it. I was originally a sheet metal worker in my younger days so hopefully I still have some imagination left when it comes to dreaming up fabricated parts of sheet metal.

Thanks to you for getting me started with your stirring paddle made of wire, still the best design going. :)
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
David
Nicely done, Pete. s:2

s:1 s:1

I'm proud of ya' laddie,
between bouts of feeling jealous of your ingenuity!
c:3
 
bvwelch
Nice work! What do you feel that the flexible hose provides, over just sticking your GH into the top of the metal lid that you made?

I guess the main feature is that your heatgun is well away from the bread machine, and so its intake should be nice, cool, smoke/chaff-free air.

What other advantages am I missing?

I may just steal this idea! Thanks for taking the time to document this new twist on the HG / Bread machine.

Is that walnut, maple, or cherry that you're using to support your HG? Sure looks nice!

-bill
 
seedlings

Quote

hworx wrote:
I drilled a hole through the side and into the can about 1.5" from the bottom. I got some 5/32" brass tubing from Hobby Lobby and it sticks about 1/2" into the can, then I insert a thermocouple lead into it and push it into the can. That holds it into the beans better than just sticking the TC into it.


Great idea! How did your temps change with the brass tubing?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH

Quote

bvwelch wrote:
Nice work! What do you feel that the flexible hose provides, over just sticking your GH into the top of the metal lid that you made?

I guess the main feature is that your heatgun is well away from the bread machine, and so its intake should be nice, cool, smoke/chaff-free air.

What other advantages am I missing?

I may just steal this idea! Thanks for taking the time to document this new twist on the HG / Bread machine.

Is that walnut, maple, or cherry that you're using to support your HG? Sure looks nice!

-bill


Thanks for the kind words Bill,
Yes, the biggest advantage is that the HG is away from the heat and chaff and is not pulling it into the air stream of the motor. You also don't need to worry about the air temp melting down the end of the HG as some have done. One nice bonus is you can raise or lower the tubing inside the can to help speed up or slow down the roast. Also, the metal cover I made was too flimsy to support the HG all on it's own.

If you haven't tried the BM with a cover on it you are missing out on a better roaster. Much more consistent.

Please feel to try your version of it, that's why I posted mine. The stand is made of some cypress I had laying around.

I took the picture with the stand sitting on a lower level than the BM is why it looks kinda funny, it looks better with them all on the same plane. maybe I'll take a better picture later. :)
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
PeteH

Quote

seedlings wrote:

Quote

hworx wrote:
I drilled a hole through the side and into the can about 1.5" from the bottom. I got some 5/32" brass tubing from Hobby Lobby and it sticks about 1/2" into the can, then I insert a thermocouple lead into it and push it into the can. That holds it into the beans better than just sticking the TC into it.


Great idea! How did your temps change with the brass tubing?

CHAD


The tubing didn't change the temps that I can tell. The TC sticks out past the end of the tubing about 1/2" but the tubing does hold the TC lead out into the beans and protects the lead. I did try it with the TC just inside the tubing and it seems to lower the temp about 10 degrees and makes it slower to change temps. I have a 4" type K probe and it has the same characteristics, slower to react, etc., probably because it's the same thing only inside an SS tube.
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
seedlings
It's good to hear that the hobby brass tubing protects the TC and doesn't mess with the readings. Right now I have mine wrapped with aluminum foil because after many months I had 1/4 inch of bare wires with insulation worn off from rubbing the beans. It didn't change the readings, but eventually would cause the probe to fail, I'm sure. When the foil goes, I'm turining to your method!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch
I have used the hobby brass as well, on poppers and on bread machines. I recently quit using it, because I was concerned it was throwing my readings off. But then I found out later that most of my problem was the style of the breadmaker itself-- "tall" ones seem to work better for me, at least for temp readings-- my first breadmaker was "long and short", and so there wasn't much vertical height to the "bean mass", and I think that threw my temp readings off.

I've been using a "lid" for my breadmaker, since I saw Stu's photo.

Thanks again for the great idea of using the flexible hose. And I was surprised that it isn't expensive.


-bill
Edited by bvwelch on 05/20/2008 10:31 AM
 
scarter11
I'm having a hard time finding that particular part at my local Pep Boys. I know it has been over a year since posting this, but do happen to remember what vehicle this tube was for? Or has anyone else found a suitable tube?

Thanks
 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
David

Quote

scarter11 wrote:I'm having a hard time finding that particular part at my local Pep Boys. I know it has been over a year since posting this, but do happen to remember what vehicle this tube was for? Or has anyone else found a suitable tube? Thanks

ACE Hardware is a good local bet.

I tried "brass tubing 5/32" at amazon.com and found several sources.

David
Edited by David on 06/29/2010 11:30 AM
 
seedlings
I've seen the flexible muffler pipe at Advance Auto Parts & O'reilly.

http://powersport-superstore-inc.amaz...WKKOFO.htm

Or, you might be able to use a short length of aluminum flexible dryer vent from the hardware store.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
PeteH

Quote

scarter11 wrote:
I'm having a hard time finding that particular part at my local Pep Boys. I know it has been over a year since posting this, but do happen to remember what vehicle this tube was for? Or has anyone else found a suitable tube?

Thanks


The tubing I used wasn't for any particular car. It was called "heat riser tubing" and I think they had it up to 2" diameter. I got it at O'Reilly auto Parts. It was out on the shelves in front and not in the back of the store.
Pete
 
Columbian - Kenya AA
scarter11
I think I'm going to first try a different route. I re-wired my bread machine with a switch on the heating element a la Stu, and going to try a halogen lamp lid for the extra heat I need instead of a heat gun. If this works, it will decrease the sound level substantially.

We'll see how it goes. :)
 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
seedlings

Quote

scarter11 wrote:
I think I'm going to first try a different route. I re-wired my bread machine with a switch on the heating element a la Stu, and going to try a halogen lamp lid for the extra heat I need instead of a heat gun. If this works, it will decrease the sound level substantially.

We'll see how it goes. :)


Great! The only downside is (might be) chaff. Chaff may burn and smoke in there with the beans.

Here's a thread that might be of interest:
http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num...1196336104

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
scarter11
That's where I got the idea for this mod. In my initial test with just the internal element, all chaff stayed in the bottom of the pan. Beans were baked, however...
 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
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