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Part 6 - Cooling tray
David
There was 16" left over on each long piece.
So, I cut them in half, giving me the four 8" vertical pieces for the frame.
David attached the following image:
04z[980].jpg
 
David
I drilled some more holes and attached the two pieces to the board at the 8-inch mark, securing it to the board at the point of the first bend..
David attached the following image:
05z[981].jpg
 
David
This allowed me to gently bend the two pieces upwards...
David attached the following image:
06z[982].jpg
 
David
and around
David attached the following image:
07z[983].jpg
 
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David
into a semi-circle.
David attached the following image:
08z[984].jpg
 
David
It was tempting to just press down on the remaining 16 tail, but it was too unstable.
I flipped the two pieces upside down and switched the four screws to the opposite end, so I could bend the 16' pieces upward from the board.

Then it got dark and the rains came.

The next step will be to bring the open ends together by attaching them to the vertical braces.
David attached the following image:
09z[986].jpg
 
Alchemist
Wow. Just wow. So how did that go? It looks just fine. A little different than I would have bent it, but attaching it to the board the the exact right in lieu of bending it around a form.

I have to say seeing the drawing go to material is cool. Exact.

OK, now that I have finished crooning over a couple pieces of metal I will try and get re-inspired (maybe the wrong word there - I just have so many irons in the fire right now) and get some the remaining drawings set for this cooler.

GREAT JOB! That curve is perfect. Break - we don't need no stickin' break!
 
David
I'm glad you liked it. I was afraid that I might have missed something important in the bending, perhaps making the square corners squarer somehow.

I used a hacksaw to do the corner notches. I mentally re-invented the miter box a couple of times, before remembering that I had two of them already. I wish I had used one. I had to do a lot of filing and grinding to get the corners to fit.

Also, the hacksaw cuts were just too thin along the curved part.
I was faced with the prospect doing 25 (or even 50) more hacksaw cuts,
but my shoulder protested. :(

Confession: I moved up to using a cutting wheel. s:3
I know, I know, that's not organic; but the width seemed to come out just right, as illustrated. c:1
 
Alchemist
No harm with the cutting wheel. When I tested this out (but you didn't know it) I used my jig saw and flipped the angle over, onto a piece of 2 x 4. Made a cut in the wood (for the blade) and just cut the metal that way. Cut, remove the blade from the metal (left in the wood), move the metal to the next line, cut again. Very fast.

As for bending, not exactly what I meant, but in this case it worked, and it is getting us moving. For the outside sheet metal we will make a wooden frame/jig, attach the metal to one end (like you did here - THAT was perfect) and bend it around so we get the curve right.

And there is a very particular way I want to walk you through for aligning and drilling the construction holes - so no more there until I catch up :)
 
Alchemist
Good start first and foremost.

But I noticed a handful of items I need you to check and we need to account for. This is really pretty good as it shows just what I go through during the design.

First off, it looks like you used 1" angle aluminum. That in itself is fine but that drawing you took your numbers from was before we had found the cooling tray we wanted and accounted for it's diameter. Note the blue supports - they were assuming a smaller tray we needed to support . At the upper edge, you report a diameter of 14 3/8" iirc for the tray. If those things are both true, I am going to look into my crystal ball and predict that the cooling tray is not going to fit in.

16" - (1" * 2) = 14" available space. Can you check that for me and let me know?

If that is the case, this was a great dry run, but that upper frame support (the lower is cool as it will not touch the cooling tray and the OD is the same) may need to be remade from 3/4" stock. And even that will be tight, but so long as it fits, it is ok. Please verify that tray diameter.

Next - minor but important. You drilled holes to attach the metal to the board so you could cut and bend it. That in itself is great but thinking ahead, what size are those holes? More importantly, are they small enough to accept rivets to assemble the frame? Do you have rivets around you can check that?

Finally, you cut 8" risers for the tray, but I don't think I ever set that number in stone. I tossed together the following drawing (often how I design) and whereas 8" just might fit everything in, some extra space there would be better. Do you have any gut feeling or preference for 10 or 12"? I am leaning toward 12" but again want to check that against the roaster area and assure myself that is plenty of room. This is experience talking from the Zen I where I cut the dimensions just a little close and really disliked it. I rather have more than less room.
Alchemist attached the following image:
CTframe[988].jpg
 
Alchemist
I was thinking about the top of the cooler (what the cooling tray would touch) and I noticed the edges would be quite narrow (3/4") in the front. I wonder what you would think about the top of that being wood? Odd I know, but it would be easy to cut, could be stained or oiled nicely and will be in a cool area so fire shouldn't be any concern.

Your thoughts?
Edited by Alchemist on 06/26/2008 5:10 AM
 
Alchemist
While trying to workout how much space we need for the cooler, I realized I didn't have a good set of dimensions for the blower we will use for the cooler. As you set it up in your test, can you give me the cubic dimensions (i.e. maximum height, length and width or the size box that would be needed to fit it inside).
 
David
I am going to look into my crystal ball and predict that the cooling tray is not going to fit in. 16" - (1" * 2) = 14" available space. Can you check that for me and let me know?


Your crystal ball is correct: Shock
with the 1" angle aluminum, the 14" cheesecake pan does NOT fit. :@

I'll scope out some 3/4" stock.
 
Alchemist
I hate being right some days B)

Before you go cut the 3/4", do confirm the diameter of the cooling tray.

And also, I really appreciate you getting us moving on this again, but, (isn't there always a but) keep in mind the this 'danger'. When I build on my own, I have 100% of the design finished, detailed, drawn, etc, before I make a cut because too many times you design a piece, are sure it will work, and then find out it won't or you can find another component part (that you had planned but not verified) and so you have to change the design. Just like here really. We talked about a smaller tray, but the 14" one was the best fit so the design (3/4" angle vs 1") has to be slightly adjusted to accommodate it.

That isn't to say don't do this again - just keep it in mind with design work.
 
David
You drilled holes to attach the metal to the board so you could cut and bend it. That in itself is great but thinking ahead, what size are those holes? More importantly, are they small enough to accept rivets to assemble the frame? Do you have rivets around you can check that?



The holes are actually smaller than the pop rivets, so there is some margin to work with.

Finally, you cut 8" risers for the tray, but I don't think I ever set that number in stone. I tossed together the following drawing (often how I design) and whereas 8" just might fit everything in, some extra space there would be better. Do you have any gut feeling or preference for 10 or 12"? I am leaning toward 12" but again want to check that against the roaster area and assure myself that is plenty of room.


I'm fine with either, it just makes the entire roaster taller.
As long as it's not much h-e-a-v-i-e-r, I'm OK with it.
David attached the following image:
(fix it)[993].gif
 
Alchemist
Of course it will be some heavier, but not that much more. A little extra aluminum angle and the skin.

OK, since you have me moving again, I submit the following for you to wrap your head around. It is the support system for the stirring motor.

So you know what you are seeing, there will be four vertical supports (in red). They will be used to anchor a horizontal mount for the motor, running front to back (green). Two of the three mounting screws on the motor will attach to this piece. Will then attach a smaller piece of angle aluminum (blue) to the green piece and attach the motor's third screw. We are doing it this was because experience has shown me that plotting and drilling three non-linear holes "blind" with measurements in metal never seems to work. They always mis-align. Finally, due to the weight, I want a lower support for the motor to set on (purple). The motor will just sit on it and keep torque off of the green support.

Again, this is just for you to wrap your head around. Dimensional drawings will follow (after you get me the blower dimensions).

Questions?
Alchemist attached the following image:
motormount[994].jpg
 
David
The 3/4" angle is a bit snug also. :@

So, shall I grind away some metal to accommodate the 14" cheesecake pan?

Or, slit the side of the pan and shrink it's diameter a bit?

Or?? :(
 
Alchemist
David wrote:
The 3/4" angle is a bit snug also. :@

So, shall I grind away some metal to accommodate the 14" cheesecake pan?

Or, slit the side of the pan and shrink it's diameter a bit?

Or?? :(


Ok, well, welcome to design :) Let's hammer out why it is snug and we can go from there. I looked up your previous dimension. You gave

14 3/16th is the ID at the top and the metal is about 1 mm thick.

What I get from that is:

14 3/16 = 14.1875"

1 mm = 0.0393"

The OD of the cake pan should be 14.1875 + 0.0393 x 2 = 14.26624".

I/we designed the frame to be 16" across OD. With 3/4" aluminum, ID should be 14.5".

Clearly (IMO) the numbers work out. I am going to take an educated guess here and trust your first number and predict in that you free hand bent the frame, it is under 14.5" diameter (under 14.25 " even).

Check that and let me know. If that is the case, then the solution is to go ahead and build the bending jig I and mentioned off and on and bend the frame around it so it is exactly the shape and size we want.

Otherwise, check my numbers above and see which does not agree with your building measurements.

Oh, and don't fret - that's what this cooling 'test bed' is all about. It's numbers and math - it HAS to fit :)
 
Alchemist
David, at some point you asked about a pouring spout for the roasted beans. I personally don't see the need for one. We can design it if you wish, but this is how I pour my beans up every time. My hands are the guiding spout/funnel.

It's why I designed our cooling tray to be removable - for just this method.
Alchemist attached the following image:
coffeepour0[997].jpg
 
Alchemist
Is there a way to attach more than one photo per post?
Alchemist attached the following image:
coffeepour1[998].jpg

Edited by Alchemist on 07/08/2008 1:24 AM
 
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