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allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 04/02/2020 4:50 AM
Morning Ed, I haven't done any green coffee hoarding yet but am hoping the supplies don't end up like the toilet paper isles!

snwcmpr
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· 03/31/2020 2:53 PM
Hey Ed. Thanks. roar

homeroaster
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· 03/31/2020 11:21 AM
Hey quarantined home roasters! I hope you have great coffee! If they have a run on coffee, I hope you're set with your great home roast! Find me on Facebook! Ed Needham

snwcmpr
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· 03/25/2020 11:49 AM
New Rochelle in the news. I think of you every time I hear it. ... Please stay safe.

allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 03/21/2020 7:36 AM
Good morning homeroasters morning Everyone is hopefully staying healthy through this. Hang in there and stay safe!

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2" gate(knife) valves are expensive, bean dump
Elfmaze
I'm working on the bean dump for my Roaster and having some trouble sourcing a part. I got a lateral WYE coming tomorrow. The air flow comes from the bottom and the beans will get diverted by a perf plate to the 45*. But my gate valve is giving me some trouble.

I found a Chinese supplier of gate valves that I can drill for the fluid bed... But they still want $125 a piece. ouch. I was hoping it would be closer to the $29 the website states per piece. I could always get it laser cut and weld the ferules myself... But not sure that would save me much over the $125

Lateral Wye:
sanitaryfittings.us/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/clamp-lateral.png


Gate vavle:
https://hellon.en.made-in-china.com/p...-Gate.html
 
jwattleworth
I am using a butterfly valve to perform a similar operation. I used the existing "flap" and drilled holes in it to form the perf plate.

Something similar to this.

https://www.glaciertanks.com/sanitary...IzOvD_BwE
 
Elfmaze
how hard was it to drill? I have a few 2" valves but the flapper is not flat... figured that would make drilling it difficult. biggest challenge with the slide gate would be drilling the hole pattern correct the first time.

with my current blower i need to be careful with airflow. Once i get a new 2 stage vac motor in there it shouldn't be that sensitive to airflow issues
 
jwattleworth
It was fairly easy to drill. Prior to settling on a hole pattern I 3D printed various flapper designs and assembled them into the butterfly valve. This allowed me to test the impact of the various configurations. Once I settled on a design I created a fixture to hold the stainless steel flapper and a drilling template. It was then pretty straight forward to do on the drill press with some cutting oil. I am pretty mediocre with tools and was able to complete this without issue.
 
jbrux4
Can anybody show a video or pictures to display the practical application of this?
R/
Jared
 
Elfmaze
Hmm, Just got some parts in... let me try

 
jwattleworth
This is very similar to the setup I have. To prevent the beans from jamming in the valve I run the air at a low speed which is enough to agitate to prevent them from jamming...most of the time.
 
jbrux4
How was the perf plate inserted above....or below the Y ro divert the beans?
Edited by jbrux4 on 02/22/2020 11:34 AM
R/
Jared
 
Elfmaze

Quote

jbrux4 wrote:

How was the perf plate inserted above....or below the Y ro divert the beans?


That is a work in progress... that was just a crudely torn piece of paper wedged up the hole.

IN THEORY, there is someone out there that can calculate the shape needed to seal the pipe with the angle of the two joining... I'll probably try cutting a piece of PET until it fits the shape and then transfer it to the perforated SS sheet. bend a piece of perforated steel and slide it into position before letting it "spring" open against the sided and hold its self in position. It doesn't have to be 100% correct. just correct enough that no beans can get around the gap and into the heater.

the other option would be to cut the pipe and get in there with a welder... But that seems like a lot more work.
 
jbrux4
Hey, thanks for all the info, and the video was cool.

I am very interested in this type of set-up. I currently have a similar sanitary fittings set-up, but I just take off the roast chamber and dump the beans.

If I can recommend something here - the BVV filter plate (https://shopbvv.com/products/filter-p...gKPSvD_BwE comes with a fine mesh screen under the perf plate, but the cool thing is this collar that keeps the mesh from becoming dislodged. I can see this collar with a mesh or perf plate being epoxied to the collar and then just slid down the pipe into place. I would recommend a mesh since this allows much more airflow through that first gate that then gets to a perf plate as a second gate. You can just cut mesh and the use something like J-B Weld. Doing two perf plates will create more back pressure a less airflow. That may be fine for your system, but something to think about.

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/collar1.jpg
forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/collar2.jpg
forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/collar3.jpg
jbrux4 attached the following images:
collar3.jpg collar2.jpg collar1.jpg

R/
Jared
 
CharcoalRoaster

Quote

I would recommend a mesh since this allows much more airflow through that first gate that then gets to a perf plate as a second gate. You can just cut mesh and the use something like J-B Weld. Doing two perf plates will create more back pressure a less airflow. That may be fine for your system, but something to think about.


Wouldn't a fine mesh create more drag on airflow than a perf plate due to increased surface area?
 
jscott14
Your question is a bit too general to accurately answer. Pressure loss (drag on airflow that you mentioned) varies based on the open area AND the velocity of your airflow. A mesh screen can have a LARGER open area than perf plate. (That is, it would flow more freely than perf plate.) To just get in the ballpark, screen meshes can commonly be 30% - 35% open area. Perf plate could double that open area (less resistance)... OR it could have half of that open area.
But open area is only one factor to consider. The other factor is air velocity. Let's say we have a thin/fine mesh screen that has 40% open area. Let's then say we have a perforated plate that only has 20% open area (that is, smallish holes that are fairly widely spaced). Common sense might lead you to believe that the perf plate would have twice the pressure drop vs. the screen. And at low air velocities, this would somewhat hold true. But as air velocities increase, the pressure drop rises quite rapidly for the 20% open area vs. the 40% open area.... many times less pressure than the 40% OA.
Basically, the faster your airflow, the more of a "wall" the air will see with decreasing open areas.
Still, to paint with a broad, generalized brush, perforated plate with 3mm holes and roughly 5mm spacing is going to have similar resistance to common mesh screens.
This site has a table of their perf plate specs, along with the resulting open area. As you will see, their perf plate ranges from 15% OA to 58% OA... it covers a WIDE range. Hope this helps!
https://www.perforated-sheet.com/hole...sheet.html
 
jbrux4

Quote

CharcoalRoaster wrote:

Quote

I would recommend a mesh since this allows much more airflow through that first gate that then gets to a perf plate as a second gate. You can just cut mesh and the use something like J-B Weld. Doing two perf plates will create more back pressure a less airflow. That may be fine for your system, but something to think about.


Wouldn't a fine mesh create more drag on airflow than a perf plate due to increased surface area?


I was going off my personal testing of mesh, perf plate, and combination thereof in my system. When I tested, it was obvious that the mesh allowed more airflow through while not creating enough back-pressure to get the heat needed to roast. No math, just observation on my part. With that, my assumption that an additional perf plate would add more resistance/back-pressure is true in my system. Attached is the mesh I have to show perhaps why it allows more than my perf plate.

Now, that fine mesh you saw mated with the perf plate in my previous post creates a different scenario. It causes a lot of back pressure. Basically, I can use the fine mesh, screen mesh, and perf plate combinations and variations to adjust my roaster to perform optimally for lower and higher weight of bean charges.

Sorry if the picture of the fine fine mesh confused you. Anyways - I hope you find the optimal solution.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
screen_mesh.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 02/25/2020 2:05 PM
R/
Jared
 
Elfmaze
The Chinese company that makes those gate valves came down to $110 per valve... Still pricey and I'm sure I can figure out Fusion 360 and get a file designed and send over to send cut send for laser cutting for cheaper... but there is something to be said for having a bolt on component. I might just order it from the manufacturer... But I ain't gonna be happy about it Roflmao

I will just have to be careful testing plates before i finalize my drilling pattern... New center plates are $70 unless I make my own was hoping i could buy a few spares for $20 each or so.
 
CharcoalRoaster
Kind of resurrecting an older thread but I completed fabrication of my butterfly valve dump mechanism (see photos) but now I'm wondering the best way to integrate the dump valve into the RC???

With the 2" or so from the perf plate to the top of the fitting I'm unsure if that will circulate the bean mass or if whatever ends up near the perf plate will get stuck there?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/frigujwb8p4...3.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nsyk1fpvdsq....heic?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9y1z0lu031x...6.jpg?dl=0
 
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