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snwcmpr
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· 04/08/2020 7:42 AM
daniboy... You will best get an answer if you post in the forum. And the reply will be available afterwards, also.

daniboy503
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· 04/05/2020 10:37 PM
i need wiring modification for westbend poppery I that has AC fan with rotary dimmer and AC fan speed control switches Thank you!

allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 04/02/2020 4:50 AM
Morning Ed, I haven't done any green coffee hoarding yet but am hoping the supplies don't end up like the toilet paper isles!

snwcmpr
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· 03/31/2020 2:53 PM
Hey Ed. Thanks. roar

homeroaster
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· 03/31/2020 11:21 AM
Hey quarantined home roasters! I hope you have great coffee! If they have a run on coffee, I hope you're set with your great home roast! Find me on Facebook! Ed Needham

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KKTO build questions
renatoa
Yep, a quick scan of the first three pages returns insulation related to false bottom only.

Please check PM about the notice I sent you.
 
Koffee Kosmo

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Yep, a quick scan of the first three pages returns insulation related to false bottom only.

Please check PM about the notice I sent you.


There are 9 pages
Version one and Version 2 roasters

I have already answered the question that the insulation is sandwiched between sheet metal - and it’s totally safe. And no insulation fibres get into into the roasting beans as no insulation material is exposed

Please understand that I am a mechanical engineer and have factored in just about every variable

KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
renatoa
Sure, me too engineer, of another technical discipline, so my way was toward a different approach, only the lid is common.
I don't contest something, just try to understand, because I don't see any place for insulation in the lateral walls.
 
mkane
Does the false floor need standoff's to keep it perfectly level?
Always learning
 
Alaroast

Quote

mkane wrote:

Does the false floor need standoff's to keep it perfectly level?

I'm not speaking from experience because I'm still building mine, but...I was not planning on using anything like standoffs but was going to use the thickness of the insulation to give me the desired height of false floor from pot bottom. I will need to compress the insulation slightly (approx. .5") to give me the needed gap between false floor and bottom of the perforated inner pot. As KK posted several days ago in his pictures, he used a level to ensure false bottom was level while silicone is curing.
Also, I did purchase the pasta pot with riveted handles rather than welded handles because that is what I could find reasonably priced. The protruding rivets on the inside of the pot did not create a problem getting false floor in place. I just tipped the floor into place under the rivets and all is well.
Fiorenzato Bricoletta Espresso Machine, KitchenAid Proline Espresso Machine, Obel EB Grinder, KKTO roaster
 
mkane
I suppose i could use a piece of wood the correct thickness, whatever it may be, between the perforated pot and the false floor to keep it in place while silicone set's up.
Always learning
 
Koffee Kosmo

Quote

renatoa wrote:

Sure, me too engineer, of another technical discipline, so my way was toward a different approach, only the lid is common.
I don't contest something, just try to understand, because I don't see any place for insulation in the lateral walls.


Re lateral walls
In the manufactured kit version, the false floor was a whole inset that had an air gap similar to double glazing on the lateral wall
However I have recommended that some external insulation be used
Something like a towel or wool blanket loosely wrapped ( and in my opinion is all that’s needed )

See drawing below of the kit version as an explanation (Note - Kit no longer available)

i.postimg.cc/zHyZRVSr/38-CB03-B2-DF4-D-4-BFA-8-DEE-920264-B986-DD.jpg


Some builders have used insulation ribbon externally as in the photos below

i.postimg.cc/hfY1Kh5B/791-EF4-C5-5-B48-487-C-8765-B59-AB7-E19-D16.jpg

i.postimg.cc/rdXGt3TZ/592-E1-E56-514-B-45-AD-9-EC9-3-B610-E8-E6-E23.jpg



KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
Koffee Kosmo

Quote

mkane wrote:

Does the false floor need standoff's to keep it perfectly level?


The insulation material is soft so just press to get the correct level even if you need to add some weights and the silicone will hold it in place once it’s dried

The reason the false floor needs to be level is so the shaft does not rub and grind also not to add drag on the drive motor

Always make sure that all mechanical connections are either level or dead centre for smooth operation
I have mentioned on the main thread about self centre tabs for this important reason

Self centre tabs

i.postimg.cc/7JDSQ2h3/09038244-78-D8-40-A4-A02-C-9-A45-A962666-F.jpg

Pots in place

i.postimg.cc/DJ1qggvf/95-E8-B99-F-F5-BE-4245-ACB2-5-D6-CA01-D712-B.jpg




KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
Alaroast

Quote

mkane wrote:

I suppose i could use a piece of wood the correct thickness, whatever it may be, between the perforated pot and the false floor to keep it in place while silicone set's up.

That is exactly what I had in mind but was going to use a roll of 1/2" tape since that is what I had. Anything that will establish the 1/2" gap. Are you in the process of building now?
Fiorenzato Bricoletta Espresso Machine, KitchenAid Proline Espresso Machine, Obel EB Grinder, KKTO roaster
 
Alaroast

Quote



The reason the false floor needs to be level is so the shaft does not rub and grind also not to add drag on the drive motor

Always make sure that all mechanical connections are either level or dead centre for smooth operation
I have mentioned on the main thread about self centre tabs for this important reason
KK

That's a good point and the reason I went a bit oversized on my through holes in the pot and false floor. My initial try was to keep everything nice and tight with close tolerances but experienced a problem with my agitator shaft on the first roast. My shaft extension has 2 set screws that I partly tighten down but still allow the extension to be removed from the motor shaft. I should have put some threadlocker on them to keep them in place but didn't. Halfway through my initial roast, one of those set screws backed out seizing against the hole in bottom of pot. ShockI almost lost this roast but salvaged it. Even with the several minute delay in the middle of roast cycle, It still turned out acceptably; drank some this morning.
Fiorenzato Bricoletta Espresso Machine, KitchenAid Proline Espresso Machine, Obel EB Grinder, KKTO roaster
 
mkane

Quote

Alaroast wrote:

Quote

mkane wrote:

I suppose i could use a piece of wood the correct thickness, whatever it may be, between the perforated pot and the false floor to keep it in place while silicone set's up.

That is exactly what I had in mind but was going to use a roll of 1/2" tape since that is what I had. Anything that will establish the 1/2" gap. Are you in the process of building now?


Still collecting parts. I have the TO, motors on the way, pots are at the post office. I'm going to have an agitator shaft machined when specs are determined. Haven't decided is it's going to be on wheels or not. I have a few thermocouples and will run this through Artisan.
Always learning
 
mkane
I pondering over the idea of some kind of bearing for the shaft
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-sle...-bearings/
to pass through on the outer pot. Thoughts?
Edited by JackH on 02/26/2020 3:45 PM
Always learning
 
JackH

Quote

mkane wrote:

I pondering over the idea of some kind of bearing for the shaft
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-sle...-bearings/
to pass through on the outer pot. Thoughts?



Those look good. I wish I did that for mine. What shaft diameter are you going with?
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
Koffee Kosmo

Quote

mkane wrote:

I pondering over the idea of some kind of bearing for the shaft
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-sle...-bearings/
to pass through on the outer pot. Thoughts?

Those look good. I wish I did that for mine. What shaft diameter are you going with?


Yes that will work fine
The most crucial area is the false floor plate - so I would put one there as well

KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
JackH
Mkane, I would suggest you start a build post so we can follow your progress. I think we are straying from Alaroast's build thread. coffee drink
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
mkane

Quote

JackH wrote:

Quote

mkane wrote:

I pondering over the idea of some kind of bearing for the shaft
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-sle...-bearings/
to pass through on the outer pot. Thoughts?



Those look good. I wish I did that for mine. What shaft diameter are you going with?


1/2" When I gather all my parts I'll start a build thread.
Edited by mkane on 02/26/2020 8:14 PM
Always learning
 
mkane

Quote

Koffee Kosmo wrote:

Quote

mkane wrote:

I pondering over the idea of some kind of bearing for the shaft
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-sle...-bearings/
to pass through on the outer pot. Thoughts?

Those look good. I wish I did that for mine. What shaft diameter are you going with?


Yes that will work fine
The most crucial area is the perforated plate - so I would put one there as well


ThumbsUp

KK

Always learning
 
Alaroast
Installed false bottom with about 1.5" thickness of the ceramic insulation. I decided against using the full 2" thickness since this stuff is pretty dense and would have taken a lot of compression and pressure while sealant was curing. I used the copper silicone stuff since it had a little higher heat rating than the red. I found an old aluminum cake plate at the thrift store for $2 which was easy to cut to size with a jigsaw and file for the false bottom. I filed down edges to allow for about .040" clearance around all sides after cutting with saw. After setting bottom in place with sealant, I smoothed out the fillet with my finger and then placed a 1"2 roll of tape on bottom, inserted the inner pot and place a gallon jug of water in there to provide weight while curing. Make sure all holes through false bottom and pots are properly aligned before sealant starts to set up. Should be good to go in 24 hours where I'll do a lengthy heat burn in. Don't want silicone fumes in my coffeepouring

Thanks KK for the pictures of how you went about this; it helped out a lot as I did mine.
Alaroast attached the following images:
fb3.jpg fb2.jpg fb1.jpg fb4.jpg

Edited by Alaroast on 02/27/2020 9:06 AM
Fiorenzato Bricoletta Espresso Machine, KitchenAid Proline Espresso Machine, Obel EB Grinder, KKTO roaster
 
Koffee Kosmo
Well done Alaroast ThumbsUp

For ease of use and easy electrical connection to the drive motor it’s best to fit a female connector plug for the wall wart 12V power supply

Something like this

i.postimg.cc/23Pc7Yr4/407-CBB0-A-1-AF8-40-F4-B5-B1-A31-C32-F204-D4.jpg

KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosmo.blogspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
Alaroast
Thanks! About the drive motor connection; I'm using a 120V motor so I just have it wired in directly to a standard 2 prong plug for house power. I am still trying to figure out roast times and temps though. On my old SC/TO roaster, the roasting chamber space was much smaller and so heat was easier to manage and usually roasts were completed in 12-15 minutes to beginning of 2C. I'm finding that I need to preheat the KKTO at least 10 minutes until I get it up to about 480F. Once I drop in beans, it takes a while to recover in temperature and my last roast took nearly 25 minutes. I think with added insulation and correct preheat times, I'll be able to get that time down to about 15 minutes. My last roast was also 800 grams so I may need to back off to about 650 grams.
Fiorenzato Bricoletta Espresso Machine, KitchenAid Proline Espresso Machine, Obel EB Grinder, KKTO roaster
 
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