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SaraJohnson
01/16/2020 11:50 PM
Looking for a good coffee shop in Maumee, Ohio. Any recommendations?

snwcmpr
01/10/2020 4:18 AM
Maybe post in the Behmor section. Behmor users can see it. The SHOUTBOX post will be hidden in a few days.

jqaman
01/09/2020 2:51 AM
The flap on the back of my Behmor 1600 has come loose at one end. Its 15 years old. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how to fix it? thanks...john

JackH
01/02/2020 8:33 PM
Jyoungs3, you should start a post about it. The shoutbox entries will scroll away in time.

Jyoungs3
01/01/2020 1:14 PM
I just got a Freshroast 540 and my first attempt s we’re way under roasted. Does anyone have a proven profile.Thanks.

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Fluid Bed Roaster Build - bye bye Heat Gun and Flour Sifter
CK
Post 98 on the transparent roaster link shows a design that works to house any number of blower styles. I've used this design to house 3 different blowers already... only with slight modification to the original 2 part setup.
In your case, you most likely would have a top and bottom board, with a top and bottom clamshell part respectively, both wood halves could be held together with threaded rod external to the plastic blower housing.
 
CK
An example of how flow-through motors can be housed.
CK attached the following images:
housing_united.jpg bottom_fitment_with_gasket.jpg bottom_overlap_impeller_housing.jpg housing_and_motor.jpg flow_through_blower_housing_example.jpg
 
jbrux4
CK wrote:

An example of how flow-through motors can be housed.


Great example CK. There is a black covering over the fan housing (see pic for callout). I am wondering what it is, where you got it from, and its purpose. Mine doesn't have that.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
ck-housing_and_motor-question.jpg

R/
Jared
 
CK
That is the rubber mount that that mated to the plastic housing of the hand-held stick vacuum it came from... vibration dampening for the whole unit.

For your application, you could probably get away with compressing any other suitable damping material under your motor for vibration and sound reduction.
 
jbrux4
You can see the potential heat Pipe Design in the attached pic. The one thing I am still up in the air about is whether to switch the mass airflow straightener and the thermocouple. Any comments on the placement?

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/heat_pipe_design_2.jpg

I am currently on the hunt for someone with a drill press so I can get those holes drilled. Needing some of those holes tapped as well.

I also received my Sight Glass a.k.a. Roast Chamber, but was broke in shipment. A replacement is on the way. It was horrible to see it broken upon opening. But hey, I will have a couple of extra Sight Flanges, so I can't complain too much. The borosilicate glass is 9mm thick on this thing. I was going to replace the glass with a taller one, but I think I am going to keep it stock and just extend upwards with a 4" spool.

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/sight_glass_broken.jpg

The TC4/Arduino connection with Artisan works. Big thanks to Greencardigan for the TC4 and all the information provided. I did plug in the thermocouples to see the real-time temp in Artisan. I connected & created the controls and sliders as prescribed in https://forum.hom...ad_id=5393. I didn't modify the user.h because I was just establishing the connection and just getting accustomed to loading the sketches onto the Arduino, etc.

I bought some dupont housings on ebay - but am waiting and waiting for delivery. Once I get those, I can start making all the wires for connections to the TC4. I prob should have bought pre-made ones, but I wanted the full immersion experience I guess. Anyways, I am looking forward to progressing further and providing actual build episodes because that means I will be getting closer to roasting/testing with this thing.
jbrux4 attached the following images:
heat_pipe_design_2.jpg sight_glass_broken.jpg

R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
ISSUE: LCD is not showing info.

I am currently wiring from TC4 to components. I am hung up on the LCD at the moment.

The pics show the LCD output, the user.h address and the manufacturer address.

I loaded the sketch into Arduino with the modified LCD address. (note: I learned that I must remove the TC4 shield to upload an updated sketch).

I have Artisan up and running and connected to the TC4 (temp readings are real-time and accurate).

Any ideas on how to determine and remedy the issue?
jbrux4 attached the following images:
mfr-address.jpg user_h-lcd_address.jpg lcd-not_working.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 12/15/2019 7:14 AM
R/
Jared
 
renatoa
First, play with contrast pot.
If no success, try Newliquidcrystal_1.3.5 library instead, was the one I had success with a new generation 4x20, seems the i2c chip is different now.
 
jbrux4
renatoa wrote:

First, play with contrast pot.
If no success, try Newliquidcrystal_1.3.5 library instead, was the one I had success with a new generation 4x20, seems the i2c chip is different now.


Thanks for the tips. The contrast pot did not fix. The new library.....ummm - getting into unfamiliar territor - but I will check it out. The library is available from github?
R/
Jared
 
JackH
The LCD in his photo does not look like a 4X20 to me.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
jbrux4
jbrux4 wrote:

renatoa wrote:

First, play with contrast pot.
If no success, try Newliquidcrystal_1.3.5 library instead, was the one I had success with a new generation 4x20, seems the i2c chip is different now.


Thanks for the tips. The contrast pot did not fix. The new library.....ummm - getting into unfamiliar territor - but I will check it out. The library is available from github?


The NewLiquidcrystal_1.3.5 is the library being used.

I attached the code from the aArtisanQ_PID if it helps.
jbrux4 attached the following images:
newliquidcrystal_1_3_5.jpg aartisanq_pid_code.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 12/15/2019 7:36 AM
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
JackH wrote:

The LCD in his photo does not look like a 4X20 to me.


Please see the link for what I have: https://www.amazo...&psc=1

I also enhanced the contrast and attached the pic.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
lcd-4x20-contrast_enhanced.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 12/15/2019 7:48 AM
R/
Jared
 
JackH
renatoa wrote:

First, play with contrast pot.
If no success, try Newliquidcrystal_1.3.5 library instead, was the one I had success with a new generation 4x20, seems the i2c chip is different now.


should have quoted.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
jbrux4
JackH wrote:

renatoa wrote:

First, play with contrast pot.
If no success, try Newliquidcrystal_1.3.5 library instead, was the one I had success with a new generation 4x20, seems the i2c chip is different now.


should have quoted.


No worries - just want to make sure it is understood what I have. I appreciate your attention and any assistance you may provide.
R/
Jared
 
greencardigan
I'd try the other addresses again. All the ones I've bought from ebay are 0x27. Can you see any address pads on the I2C module?

I don't think this is your problem but check your wiring. The pins on the LCD don't directly match the TC4 pins.

And make sure the LCD is already connected when you power the TC4 on.

You should not have to remove the TC4 to reprogram. Do you perhaps have a Bluetooth module connected to the TX/RX pins?
Edited by greencardigan on 12/15/2019 9:12 AM
 
jbrux4
greencardigan wrote:

I'd try the other addresses again. All the ones I've bought from ebay are 0x27. Can you see any address pads on the I2C module?

I don't think this is your problem but check your wiring. The pins on the LCD don't directly match the TC4 pins.

And make sure the LCD is already connected when you power the TC4 on.

You should not have to remove the TC4 to reprogram. Do you perhaps have a Bluetooth module connected to the TX/RX pins?


I tried all of the 0x27, 0x3F, and 0x20 to no avail. I would unplug arduino, plug in, modify user.h, compile, then upload, then unplug, then plug in, then open artisan to verify real time temp data.

My cabling is as such:
Arduino Side//////LCD Side
+5V (Brown)/////(Yellow)
GND (Yellow)////(Brown)
SDA (Black)/////(Black)
SCL (Green)////(Green)

I didn't see an address pad on the module.

I had the bluetooth module attached at the time. Since, I have unplugged the module and I was able to upload the sketches.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
lcd_address_pad.jpg

R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
jbrux4 wrote:

greencardigan wrote:

I'd try the other addresses again. All the ones I've bought from ebay are 0x27. Can you see any address pads on the I2C module?

I don't think this is your problem but check your wiring. The pins on the LCD don't directly match the TC4 pins.

And make sure the LCD is already connected when you power the TC4 on.

You should not have to remove the TC4 to reprogram. Do you perhaps have a Bluetooth module connected to the TX/RX pins?


I tried all of the 0x27, 0x3F, and 0x20 to no avail. I would unplug arduino, plug in, modify user.h, compile, then upload, then unplug, then plug in, then open artisan to verify real time temp data.

My cabling is as such:
Arduino Side//////LCD Side
+5V (Brown)/////(Yellow)
GND (Yellow)////(Brown)
SDA (Black)/////(Black)
SCL (Green)////(Green)

I didn't see an address pad on the module.

I had the bluetooth module attached at the time. Since, I have unplugged the module and I was able to upload the sketches.


In typical troubleshooting fashion, I re-seated everything and then went through all of the addresses again. It works. It took the 0x27 address.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
lcd_working.jpg

R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
QUESTION: SSR & ZCD Wiring

I currently have my blower wired like the attached example and I provided an actual pic as well. What I don't have yet wired for the blower is the ZCD portion. Here are my questions:

  1. Where do I hook into the Mains?
  2. Where do I hook into the Power?
  3. What do I do with the grounds from the outlets?
jbrux4 attached the following images:
zcd_wiring.jpg ssr_wiring_actual.jpg ssr_wiring_example.jpg

R/
Jared
 
greencardigan
Glad you got the LCD sorted.

Have you seen the wiring diagram attached?

I don't really understand the difference between Q1 and Q2. You need power wires going from the main power input to the ZCD mains connector and also from the main power input to the blower via the SSR as per the attachment.

I run ground from my outlet through to the metal parts on my roaster.
greencardigan attached the following image:
tc4-wiring-small-20111120_2_2.jpg
 
jbrux4
greencardigan wrote:

Glad you got the LCD sorted.

Have you seen the wiring diagram attached?

I don't really understand the difference between Q1 and Q2. You need power wires going from the main power input to the ZCD mains connector and also from the main power input to the blower via the SSR as per the attachment.

I run ground from my outlet through to the metal parts on my roaster.


That wiring diagram only confuses me, and your explanation did not provide me clarity.

I updated my picture to include line numbers if that would help in an "explain like i'm five" way.

The blower is on its own 110v circuit as well.

Thank you for your info. Sorry if my lack of electrical diagram to implementation is lacking.
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
jbrux4 wrote:

greencardigan wrote:

Glad you got the LCD sorted.

Have you seen the wiring diagram attached?

I don't really understand the difference between Q1 and Q2. You need power wires going from the main power input to the ZCD mains connector and also from the main power input to the blower via the SSR as per the attachment.

I run ground from my outlet through to the metal parts on my roaster.


That wiring diagram only confuses me, and your explanation did not provide me clarity.

I updated my picture to include line numbers if that would help in an "explain like i'm five" way.

The blower is on its own 110v circuit as well.

Thank you for your info. Sorry if my lack of electrical diagram to implementation is lacking.


I went and roasted some beans on my flour sifter set up, and came back up. Looking at CK's example, I've applied it to my wiring pic. I've added in where I think the wires should join in. Are there any issues with how I think it goes?

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/zcd_wiring-potential.jpg
jbrux4 attached the following image:
zcd_wiring-potential.jpg

R/
Jared
 
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