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JackH
12/14/2019 4:07 AM
I read somewhere that higher elevations have faster roast time and require somewhat lower temperatures. air is thin and has less Oxygen

allenb
12/14/2019 12:44 AM
Yes, 1st off, you must use only Panama Esmeralda Geisha beans and be sure to only roast on Saturdays. Actually, this isn't completely true. Please post in all about roasters forum. Thx!

wjohndon4566
12/13/2019 10:36 AM
I’m at 9,000 feet elevation, is there any special adjustments that need to be made to roast using an SR 540 at this elevation?

snwcmpr
12/07/2019 9:29 AM
roar

snwcmpr
11/27/2019 11:44 AM
greenman

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Fluid Bed Roaster Build - bye bye Heat Gun and Flour Sifter
CK
Post 98 on the transparent roaster link shows a design that works to house any number of blower styles. I've used this design to house 3 different blowers already... only with slight modification to the original 2 part setup.
In your case, you most likely would have a top and bottom board, with a top and bottom clamshell part respectively, both wood halves could be held together with threaded rod external to the plastic blower housing.
 
CK
An example of how flow-through motors can be housed.
CK attached the following images:
housing_united.jpg bottom_fitment_with_gasket.jpg bottom_overlap_impeller_housing.jpg housing_and_motor.jpg flow_through_blower_housing_example.jpg
 
jbrux4
CK wrote:

An example of how flow-through motors can be housed.


Great example CK. There is a black covering over the fan housing (see pic for callout). I am wondering what it is, where you got it from, and its purpose. Mine doesn't have that.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
ck-housing_and_motor-question.jpg

R/
Jared
 
CK
That is the rubber mount that that mated to the plastic housing of the hand-held stick vacuum it came from... vibration dampening for the whole unit.

For your application, you could probably get away with compressing any other suitable damping material under your motor for vibration and sound reduction.
 
jbrux4
You can see the potential heat Pipe Design in the attached pic. The one thing I am still up in the air about is whether to switch the mass airflow straightener and the thermocouple. Any comments on the placement?

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/heat_pipe_design_2.jpg

I am currently on the hunt for someone with a drill press so I can get those holes drilled. Needing some of those holes tapped as well.

I also received my Sight Glass a.k.a. Roast Chamber, but was broke in shipment. A replacement is on the way. It was horrible to see it broken upon opening. But hey, I will have a couple of extra Sight Flanges, so I can't complain too much. The borosilicate glass is 9mm thick on this thing. I was going to replace the glass with a taller one, but I think I am going to keep it stock and just extend upwards with a 4" spool.

forum.homeroasters.org/forum/attachments/sight_glass_broken.jpg

The TC4/Arduino connection with Artisan works. Big thanks to Greencardigan for the TC4 and all the information provided. I did plug in the thermocouples to see the real-time temp in Artisan. I connected & created the controls and sliders as prescribed in https://forum.hom...ad_id=5393. I didn't modify the user.h because I was just establishing the connection and just getting accustomed to loading the sketches onto the Arduino, etc.

I bought some dupont housings on ebay - but am waiting and waiting for delivery. Once I get those, I can start making all the wires for connections to the TC4. I prob should have bought pre-made ones, but I wanted the full immersion experience I guess. Anyways, I am looking forward to progressing further and providing actual build episodes because that means I will be getting closer to roasting/testing with this thing.
jbrux4 attached the following images:
heat_pipe_design_2.jpg sight_glass_broken.jpg

R/
Jared
 
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