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SaraJohnson
01/16/2020 11:50 PM
Looking for a good coffee shop in Maumee, Ohio. Any recommendations?

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01/10/2020 4:18 AM
Maybe post in the Behmor section. Behmor users can see it. The SHOUTBOX post will be hidden in a few days.

jqaman
01/09/2020 2:51 AM
The flap on the back of my Behmor 1600 has come loose at one end. Its 15 years old. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how to fix it? thanks...john

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Jyoungs3, you should start a post about it. The shoutbox entries will scroll away in time.

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01/01/2020 1:14 PM
I just got a Freshroast 540 and my first attempt s we’re way under roasted. Does anyone have a proven profile.Thanks.

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Fluid Bed Roaster Build - bye bye Heat Gun and Flour Sifter
jbrux4
renatoa wrote:

Rewiring the two 110V elements from paralel to series, and connecting them to 220V will not draw more current, conversely... you can use a lower current SSR.


Thank you. Noted and put in my pocket.
R/
Jared
 
renatoa
Got it, there is good, was thinking you mean exhaust air.
The perfect place requirements are: least airflow possible, and slowest bean movement, for the longest contact possible.
Also, probe shape is critical. I would consider such sticker model for this purpose:
https://perfectpr...cts/tl0225

Sorry for confusing you more than helping.
 
jbrux4
renatoa wrote:

Got it, there is good, was thinking you mean exhaust air.
The perfect place requirements are: least airflow possible, and slowest bean movement, for the longest contact possible.
Also, probe shape is critical. I would consider such sticker model for this purpose:
https://perfectpr...cts/tl0225

Sorry for confusing you more than helping.


Wow. Didnt even know this existed. Operating temp is up to 392F. How did you overcome that limitation?
R/
Jared
 
renatoa
I would check elsewhere for versions using a better kapton tape.
According to manufacturer (DuPont) it could range up to +400 °C / 752 °F
 
jbrux4
THRU-FLOW Blower Question:

Well, I feel like a dummy.

I have the thru-flow blower in-hand now, but I am not getting how to get this thing installed. Is there a housing that goes over the motor that has a blower outlet that I could then attache a pipe to?

I think I now understand why people go with the Tangential Bypass - because it already has a blower outlet.
R/
Jared
 
greencardigan
Yes it will eed to be placed in some sort of housing or tube. I used PVC tube that was almost a perfect fit for my motor.
 
jbrux4
greencardigan wrote:

Yes it will eed to be placed in some sort of housing or tube. I used PVC tube that was almost a perfect fit for my motor.


As much as I have looked, I cant find a good example- less 3d printed custom stuff.

I am still laughing at myself. "Oh, it's gonna be easier one I see it and have it in-hand." I was wrong. I dont want to give up the design principle of heated air though, so I must find a way.
R/
Jared
 
greencardigan
Here's some pics from my single element roaster build. It has the motor in a PVC tube with th PVC reducer on top where the element connects to.
greencardigan attached the following images:
img_1616.jpg img_1615.jpg
 
jbrux4
greencardigan wrote:

Here's some pics from my single element roaster build. It has the motor in a PVC tube with th PVC reducer on top where the element connects to.


Thanks. Disappointment has faded and the idea juices are flowing now.
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
Questions Regarding HONEYCOMB AIRFLOW STRAIGHTENER:

For those who have the know-how with the honeycomb airflow straightener:

  1. How do you trim a square straightener to round? What tool or tools did you use?
  2. Is it best to put the straightener at the ingress point or the egress point of the heat pipe?
  3. Can this substitute a perf plate/screen at entry into the roast chamber?


My use case is the following:
  1. 3/4" thick airflow straightener: https://sep.yimg....sing-5.gif
  2. Thru-Flow blower
  3. 1.5" diameter heat pipe approximately 10-12" length
  4. 2 heating elements in heat pipe approx 4.25" length each and 1" diameter each

Edited by jbrux4 on 11/11/2019 3:43 PM
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
Build Episode 1: SSR and Heatsink Assembly

*also attached in the .7z file

Disclaimer:
This is how I did it. You don’t have to do it this way. If I have done something detrimental to the safety of myself or others, please let me know.

Discussion:
I will be utilizing 3 different 110V circuits for the elements and blower, and I will have my two heating elements wired in parallel. It is better to have SSRs with heat sinks to prevent overheating and to achieve specifications as stated by the manufacturer.

Goal(s):
  1. Attach the 3 SSRs to the 3 heat sinks with silicon thermal pads

Materials & Tools:
  1. Heatsinks
  2. SSRs
  3. Silicon Thermal Pads
  4. Isopropyl Alcohol & paper towel
  5. Phillips head screwdriver
  6. Cutting surface for thermal pad
  7. Xacto Knife
*see attached Materials pic

Process:
  1. Clean the heatsink and SSR mating surfaces with the alcohol & paper towel.
  2. Place the silicon pad on the cutting surface, then place SSR on top. Use the Xacto knife to cut the outline of the SSR. Remove one side of the protective film on the thermal pad and apply to the meatal surface of the SSR. Use the Xacto knife to cut the thermal pad for the “U” shape on one end and an “X” puncture on the other end of the SRR. Remove the protective film from the bottom side and place on the heatsink being careful to line up the holes to the puncture and the “U” shape. Then, screw in the two screws to smash the SSR into the thermal pad. Repeat for the next two SSRs.
*see attached Complete pic

Links to things:
  1. Thermal Pad:https://www.amazo...&psc=1
  2. Heat Sinks: https://www.amazo...&psc=1
  3. SSR-Zero Voltage Turn-On: https://www.grain...olid-1DTF1
  4. SSR-Instantaneous Turn-On: https://www.grain...olid-1DTJ1
jbrux4 attached the following file:
e1-ssr_heatsink_assembly.7z [865.21kB / 17 Downloads]
jbrux4 attached the following images:
e1-complete-post.jpg e1-materials-post.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 11/11/2019 3:46 PM
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
jbrux4 wrote:

Questions Regarding HONEYCOMB AIRFLOW STRAIGHTENER:

For those who have the know-how with the honeycomb airflow straightener:

  1. How do you trim a square straightener to round? What tool or tools did you use?
  2. Is it best to put the straightener at the ingress point or the egress point of the heat pipe?
  3. Can this substitute a perf plate/screen at entry into the roast chamber?


From what I have gathered from a NASA paper on an MAF straightener, it is best to have the strightener as far down the tunnel/tube as possible prior to its purposeful use. My own intuition tells me that the turbulence of the air while passing the heating elements is good because this means it gets heated for longer. Whether there is a measurable impact - don't know, but the diagrams and drawings I reviewed suggest it.

As for the replacement of a perf plate or screen, I don't quite know yet because I don't know the sizes of the openings of the honeycomb, but I suspect those openings are too large and a perf plate or mesh scree is necessary. I am pretty sure I can use a few different tools to snip away at the honeycomb or even power cut - depends on the rigidity of the stuff - it is aluminum. I also read in the NASA paper that damage to the honeycomb has significant ramifications in terms of performance, so I want to handle it carefully.
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
I am still waiting on some pieces and parts. I did get notification of a package from the Australian Post, so I should have the TC4 and ZCD.

I learned how to crimp those DuPont connectors last night, but I am still waiting on the housings. I need to practice with the soldering iron - it's been 8 years since I did any soldering for my home brew and wood working stuff.

I ran into an issue with the Flow-Thru Motor Housing I am devising, so I had to return a couple pieces and I am waiting on replacement parts.

I am in contact with a couple vendors regarding the roast chamber and high temp gaskets.

The cyclone is on its way from China.

When I get a set of pieces to make a logical build episode, I will.

Thanks to everybody for info, whether directly or indirectly from past threads and posts. It all helps.
R/
Jared
 
allenb
Youre moving along at a rapid pace! This is the Christmas morning phase when all the parts start arriving and can't wait to see it all come together. Keep us posted

christmas tree
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
jbrux4
allenb wrote:

Youre moving along at a rapid pace! This is the Christmas morning phase when all the parts start arriving and can't wait to see it all come together. Keep us posted

christmas tree


I am moving fast. My wife and kids have raised a couple eyebrows so far, but they know exactly where to put the strange looking things that come in.
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
QUESTION: FLEXIBLE MICA

I am using a 1.5" stainless steel heat pipe which will have two heating elements in line. the elements will have less that 1/4" around the circumference. The ID of the pipe will have flexible mica as a sleeve. This mica will reduce the amoutn around the circumference of the element.

Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock?

The mica is .020, rated to 930F, and 508v/mil: https://www.mcmas...m/85825k45

Thanks in advance.
jbrux4 attached the following image:
20191118_202947.jpg

Edited by jbrux4 on 11/18/2019 1:34 PM
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
jbrux4 wrote:

QUESTION: FLEXIBLE MICA

I am using a 1.5" stainless steel heat pipe which will have two heating elements in line. the elements will have less that 1/4" around the circumference. The ID of the pipe will have flexible mica as a sleeve. This mica will reduce the amoutn around the circumference of the element.

Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock?

The mica is .020, rated to 930F, and 508v/mil: https://www.mcmas...m/85825k45

Thanks in advance.


From the non response - I am guessing I asked a self-evident question considering the specs of the mica. The self-evident answer is "of course it will work."

Still waiting on some parts and pieces, and I still haven't found a suitable solution for the blower motor housing. I will keep searching.
R/
Jared
 
allenb
Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock?


Probably not a chance for burn through unless you lose air flow and nichrome turns to whitish yellow just before melting down. In that case, as long as the tube is well grounded, you'll pop the circuit breaker if the breaker is in good shape.

Although it's theoretically safe, it's not in meeting best practice standards since this usually doesn't afford optimum air flow past all areas of the element since some of the coil turns will be touching the mica surface and those areas of the element will be to some degree hotter than the rest. Its best to use some form of stand-off to center the element. What I usually do is take a piece of mica board and cut a notch in it to allow sliding it snugly over the ends which forms a sort of "T" arrangement and keeps the element centered within the tube.
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
jbrux4
allenb wrote:

Is this safe? What if the element physically touches the mica? Is there a chance of burn through of the mica leading to electrical shock?


Probably not a chance for burn through unless you lose air flow and nichrome turns to whitish yellow just before melting down. In that case, as long as the tube is well grounded, you'll pop the circuit breaker if the breaker is in good shape.

Although it's theoretically safe, it's not in meeting best practice standards since this usually doesn't afford optimum air flow past all areas of the element since some of the coil turns will be touching the mica surface and those areas of the element will be to some degree hotter than the rest. Its best to use some form of stand-off to center the element. What I usually do is take a piece of mica board and cut a notch in it to allow sliding it snugly over the ends which forms a sort of "T" arrangement and keeps the element centered within the tube.


Understood allenb. I was planning on setting it in the center, but with the airflow causing possible vibration/movement over time, the possibility for the nichrome to touch the mica exists. However, since I have the ability to put this together and to take apart in pieces, I can monitor this when performing cleaning. I can also slide the mica out and look at the surface for any marks or burns.

Thanks for the tip on how you have done this.
R/
Jared
 
jbrux4
Question: Unique Coupling Required - Any Examples of Proven Methods for My Use Case?

The picture shows a flow through vacuum/blower with a Bain-Marie pot covering the motor. The unique compression needed is pressure around the circumference and top down to press the lid against the blower housing. The possibility exists to add a gasket between the two pieces which would add to the thickness dimension below.

Dimensions:
Fan Housing Diameter: 144.22mm, 5.678"
Motor Housing Outer Ring: 146.43, 5.765"
Bain Marie Lip: 7.84mm, .309"
Motor Outer Ring and Bain Marie Lip Thickness: 3.7mm to 4.5mm, 0.146" to 0.177"
jbrux4 attached the following image:
coupling_question.png

R/
Jared
 
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