topbanner.gif
Login
Username

Password




Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.
Shoutbox
You must login to post a message.

snwcmpr
10/18/2019 2:37 PM
Eth Nat Yirg Idido roasted yesterday. I dropped some off at a friends coffee shop. In a few days he will brew it and tell me what he thinks. We believe my roasts are better than what we buy.

snwcmpr
10/16/2019 2:52 PM
Thank you for all you guys do.

JackH
10/15/2019 2:02 AM
They seem to be after the shoutbox. They have been removed. I don't see anything in the forums.

snwcmpr
10/14/2019 3:27 PM
We have been hacked. A whole lot of posts that have filled up the whole forum.

snwcmpr
10/10/2019 4:49 AM
Honduras Royal Reserve today.

Users Online
Guests Online: 2

Members Online: 0

Total Members: 6,196
Newest Member: donfromindy
In Memory Of Ginny
Donations

Latest Donations
renatoa - 2.00
allenb - 25.00
snwcmpr - 10.00
Groveland Hill Roas... - 25.00
renatoa - 2.00

View Thread

Who is here? 1 guest(s)
 Print Thread
Hottop KN 8828 B Help Please
NZHomeRoaster
Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and hope there's someone here who can help or at least point me in the right direction.
My problem is that I accidentally destroyed the LED display on my control panel of my Hottop machine and I can't buy a replacement control board because my machine is too old according to the manufacturer, and I can't upgrade it to the B-2K easily either apparently the chaff tray is of a different size and requires other parts etc etc.
I was considering ripping out all the original control boards and replacing it with a PID and manual on/off switches but then I came across articles on the TC4+ shield and Arduino using Artisan software and thought it might be the answer to my problem.
Has anyone done anything similar to what I want to do?
I will need to control the heating element varying temperature, the drum motor, the roasting fan varying speed, the bean eject solenoid open/close, the cooling tray arm and fan.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
 
renatoa
I think the eject solenoid should be controlled manually, not aware about TC4 having a pin dedicated for such feature.
It can be added easily to existing code, though... I can help you with this part if you wish.

The rest of implementation is just a matter of reading TC4 documentation, and check similar existing implementations of other HT or drum roasters.
 
NZHomeRoaster
Hello Renotoa, thanks for your reply. Yes you might be correct, a manual switch that operates the eject solenoid, cooling fan and agitator arm would work and might be better.

I was thinking it must be possible to use the Hottop as the donor roaster and change out the "brains" of the machine. Especially not my model is not supported by the maker anymore. Thanks
 
renatoa
Yes, is possible, is just a drum roaster, nothing special, with the added great bonus of already having the temperature probe mounted, this is a hard nut for many newbies, to guess where would be the best place for temp probe.
All you have to do now is to follow the wires:
- temp probe - connected to TC4
- drum motor, that probably is controlled from RIP panel, using a relay, follow the leads to the control board and use a switch instead the relay. No need to control drum rotation speed at this phase.
- heater - connected to TC4 using a SSR
- fan - the same, connected to TC4, but there are many ways, depends what type/voltage is the fan motor.
 
Randy G
This should work with the B model, but just to be sure, make sure that the black wire is the +12v. lead...:

- Unplug the ribbon cable from the back of the control panel
- Plug the roaster into mains power
- Using a short length (12" or so is plenty) of light gauge wire (like bell wire), create a jumper to temporarily short the BLACK wire to the ORANGE wire on the connector of the ribbon cable. This should cause the ejection door to open. If it does open, manipulate the ribbon cable to be sure it is not a damaged wire in the cable itself causing an intermittent open condition. The full list of possible activities that can be actuated in this manner are:

BLACK --> ORANGE = Eject Solenoid
BLACK --> YELLOW = Bean agitation Motor
BLACK --> GREEN = Main Motor
BLACK --> RED = Fans at 100% speed

I think that the last wire is the heating element, and you MAY need to power the drum before the heating element comes on depending on the age of the main board, but can't remember. I lost all my Hottop roasters in a fire so cannot test it for you.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
NZHomeRoaster
Randy, thanks very much for all that very useful information. I have decided to go this way to keep my old Hottop going. The manufacturer has already has already indicated they don't have any old parts. The parts from them are very expensive as well. I will be turning the K 8828B into some kind of Franken-Roast but it will be computer controlled! All my projects start with my famous last words "how hard can it be?"... Thanks guys!
 
Jump to Forum:

Similar Threads

Thread Forum Replies Last Post
SOLD - Hottop Roaster HotTop Roaster 1 10/10/2019 5:01 AM
Hottop (Light) Roast Profile, Baked Coffee HotTop Roaster 1 08/20/2019 5:54 AM
Unavoidable Scorching with Hottop KN-8828-B2 HotTop Roaster 5 08/10/2019 9:13 AM
Hacking a Hottop KN 8828 B Dataloggers/Controllers/Rate of Rise Meters 2 07/12/2019 8:21 PM
Hottop KN-8828B-2K+ Roast Speed Slowing HotTop Roaster 5 04/14/2019 3:46 PM
Homeroasters Association Logo, and all Content, Images, and Icons © 2005-2016 Homeroasters Association - Logos are the property of their respective owners.
Powered by PHP-Fusion Copyright © 2019 PHP-Fusion Inc
Released as free software without warranties under GNU Affero GPL v3
Designed with by NetriX