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CharcoalRoaster
11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

snwcmpr
11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

allenb
11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

Funopt
10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

snwcmpr
10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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My Air Build
beanchucker
Going for 1lb capacity (green).

Blower is an Ametek Windjammer brushless 240V. Says 5.8A. 5.7''. Not sure on other specs as the ametek site doesn't tell me directly the specs. Bought used. Works, but I'm a little scared to bring it up past 6V (0-10V control is built into the blower) sitting on the bench. It is a bypass blower and I intend to enclose it in a 1''thick mdf box. The motor end will stick out through the box. The intake will just be unconnected inside the box. I will have a port somewhere to let air in, and possibly baffle the internals of the box for sound reasons. With the motor sitting exposed, I'm not sure how much this will help. I plan to couple the output inside the box to 2'' triclamp weld-end ferrule with a no-hub coupling. This tc length will pass through the mdf vertically. Need to figure a very sturdy way to hold this tight as I have about 12'' more of 2'' tc spool above this which holds the heater, and ~2.5' of 120mm od 5mm wall borosilicate tube above this. The tc fittings that adapt to the tube are very heavy. I know this is pretty long, but most peeps seem to like a little more viewing area especially for cooldown, and the glass company cut the original tube I bought (1500mm) in half for free. The adapters/flanges are from stilldragon. They actually sold me a whole case (3pieces) accidentally so now I have five extra pieces I don't need. Charged me for it too darn it. My mistake partially too actually.

Heater is from a 2kw heatgun. Shortened it down to 17.3ish ohms. I have a thin mica sheet to wrap around it but not sure this is sufficient. Maybe a little thin alumina/silica felt would be a better safeguard.

Got a boiler control from auber. Have plenty of pids around but wanted something with a knob rather than push-buttons. Seems peeps don't adjust power much if ever. Maybe I can calibrate against ambient temp and use it that way - more power in winter etc. Got a cheap little 0-10V dc signal genny with led readout to control the blower.

For mounting the tc as it passes through the mdf, thinking of using two 1/4'' steel plates, maybe 4''x4'', drilling a 2'' hole in each, and separating them with 3'' standoffs, and bolting the whole thing to the top of the mdf. I think I will also need some sort of lattice/tower/scaffold to attach firmly to the mdf top and rise up to the top of the glass to support it. Again, the glass and flanges are heavy, and the top will be almost 4' above the top of the mdf.

2'' tc adapts to the 4'' tc (glass flanges) through a 'bowl' reducer. Hope beans don't sit idle near the bottom of the bowl where it is flat. Won't be able to see here, so hopefully burnt/uneven beans will be the giveaway.

Planning on 1lb green capacity but who knows - maybe more in the future. Seems like 3.3kw is sort of in the 1lb range from my reading.

Oh yeah, no plans for recirculating air or chaff collection. Will roll/push/carry it outside for roasting.
Hopefully get pics tomorrow sometime.

Thanks again for all the useful forum info, and I'd gladly take any feedback/criticism.
 
JitterzZ
Can you provide a link or model of the 2kw heatgun that you're using? Thank you.
 
JitterzZ
The Artisan 3e does three pounds with a 5200 watt element: https://youtu.be/...yXNY?t=177. That's a little over 1700 watts per pound. A 2000 watt element should be plenty for One pound. I would still insulate it as much as possible and reduce as much heat-sinking as possible.
Edited by JitterzZ on 03/11/2019 1:20 AM
 
beanchucker
https://www.mcmaster.com/3308k416

I cut it down but did a bit of a sloppy job wrapping it back on the mica. Not sure I trust the thin mica sheet it came with to insulate the element from the stainless tube it will sit in. Thinking that refractory wool would make me feel safer.
 
JitterzZ
beanchucker wrote:

https://www.mcmaster.com/3308k416

I cut it down but did a bit of a sloppy job wrapping it back on the mica. Not sure I trust the thin mica sheet it came with to insulate the element from the stainless tube it will sit in. Thinking that refractory wool would make me feel safer.

Great, thank you.
Here's a good thread for ensuring the integrity of your element:https://forum.hom...ad_id=5066
Edited by JitterzZ on 03/06/2019 10:33 AM
 
beanchucker
Thinking that an inch or two before the perf plate would be a good spot to monitor temperature. I understand that BT/ET isn't really inter-comparable between drums and fb's, and that because the lofting pattern changes as the roast progresses, anywhere you put the probe in the RC is going to be confusing. IIRC several people here have had good luck with a probe before the RC, and just noting how things progress for their particular build.

Would ~500degF inlet air temp (with greens lofting) be a good starting point for the beginning of roast? I'm sure I'll end up wasting several lbs getting this thing dialed - just want to minimize the time and $$$ for that.....

Thanks,
 
JitterzZ
Can't help with the tech questions, but I'm sure someone here can. greencardigan appears to be using a probe before the perf plate and in the RC: https://youtu.be/...
https://forum.hom...post_65014
 
beanchucker
Yes, thanks, and I think oldgearhead does too.
 
beanchucker
Got one of the tubes between the flanges so I can measure for threaded rod to hold it all together. Looks like I'll need just a bit over 30'' of rod. There is a little bit of lip on the inside of the gasket - hopefully it's not enough for beans to get held up there. If they do, I might be able to take a razor and trim a bit down so it's more of a 45deg angle.

I asked for the glass to be flame polished but that didn't happen. Each piece is flame polished on the original outer side and the inside is saw cut, but not too chippy looking. The only reason I got 5mm thickness is that the glass that was offered to fit from the place I got the flanges from was 5mm. Overkill, but fits the groove in the gasket nicely and 3mm would only make the lip more pronounced.
 
beanchucker
Is it correct that I have to put my photos somewhere to be hosted and then link the url to post photos here? I can't just upload them to the site? I didn't find this information on the site - thanks!
 
beanchucker
OK I found it -

Snaps of the tower and two views of the flange and gasket.
beanchucker attached the following images:
es_3.jpg es_2.jpg es_1.jpg
 
beanchucker
The triclamp section with holes that are too large (6.5mm - beans fall through), a screen gasket with 0.033'' holes, and two views of the bowl reducer.
beanchucker attached the following images:
es_7.jpg es_6.jpg es_5.jpg es_4.jpg
 
beanchucker
Blower with no-hub coupling and section of tc weld spool. This will need to be longer to pass through the box I plan to build and through a support structure. The electronics box. Just going to mount this to the box that will house the blower and support the tower. The tc section that will house the heat element. The heat element.
beanchucker attached the following images:
es_11.jpg es_10.jpg es_9.jpg es_8.jpg
 
beanchucker
I notice the photos are showing up in the reverse order of which I attached them.

The no hub coupling (1/2'' x 1/2'') fits nicely on the tc section, but is pretty floppy on the blower tube. Maybe I can crank down on it enough to get a good seal.

There are wire holders that go in those tapped holes on the element housing tube. Tapping stainless was impossible with my cheapo 1/4'' npt tap. Bought a nice one and it cut like butter.

Still haven't planned the scaffold to hold the top of the RC. Needs to be something sturdy, ergonmic, and allow for detaching the top of the RC so I can pull it off to dump the beans. Maybe I'll try to rig a system to use the blower to get the beans out. Seen some of you do that. Did I remember correctly that it is a bit violent and can damage the roasted beans?
 
CharcoalRoaster
beanchucker wrote:

The triclamp section with holes that are too large (6.5mm - beans fall through), a screen gasket with 0.033'' holes, and two views of the bowl reducer.


Have you tested airflow/bean circulation with the smaller mesh screen? I found that too small restricts airflow and won't move the beans at all and that (like you already experienced) beans fall through mesh that is too large. I ended up using a sink drainer with holes similar diameter to yours but not as many successfully. Test it out and let us know if you can achieve loft/circulation.
 
CharcoalRoaster
beanchucker wrote:

The triclamp section with holes that are too large (6.5mm - beans fall through), a screen gasket with 0.033'' holes, and two views of the bowl reducer.


On my FB the bottom of my RC just sits into a SS funnel so that airflow is directed into the bean mass through my mesh screen with little/no lost airflow or pressure. It's not as pretty as most but it gets the job done and gives me repeatable and reliable results.

https://www.dropb...QF66a?dl=0

I also reclaim heat and recirculate. For my next build, of which I hope to increase capacity I'm trying to clean things up so everything isn't covered in high temp silicone BBQ grill
 
beanchucker
Thanks for that. I haven't actually tested any lofting yet - haven't got the RC air-tight with respect to the blower yet. The large perf. section is designed for flow the other direction actually - as a support for smaller screens as they get loaded up from sediment. I can always build a screen with larger holes now that I have the gasket that is designed to hold them.
 
JavaJoshua-BoquistBean
Beanchucker, how much wattage are you using for your heat element in conjunction with your blower? I no very little about electrical engineering and a concern I have for my fluidbed is blowing a fuse by using too much wattage. The standard house circuit runs on 1400 W, so I assumed a gas blower would be a more careful approach compared to an electrical heating element.
 
JitterzZ
JavaJoshua-BoquistBean wrote:

Beanchucker, how much wattage are you using for your heat element in conjunction with your blower? I no very little about electrical engineering and a concern I have for my fluidbed is blowing a fuse by using too much wattage. The standard house circuit runs on 1400 W, so I assumed a gas blower would be a more careful approach compared to an electrical heating element.

If you find out what power is available on a spare circuit, you can put an element and blower together and then use this (https://www.amazo...B00009MDBU) and this (https://www.harbo...43060.html) to ensure that you never trip the breaker.
You can also just use Two separate circuits, one for blower and one for heating element.
Edited by JitterzZ on 03/17/2019 12:46 AM
 
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