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snwcmpr
03/18/2019 8:15 AM
1 lb roasted lasts a week. I can taste the flavor increase to peak, then drop after. Still very good, but interesting to follow the wave of flavor rise and fall.

snwcmpr
03/11/2019 4:10 PM
Roasted Panama Gesha Esmeralda yesterday. Yummy.

Beebee74
03/11/2019 3:10 PM
I seem to have lost any roasting touch I thought I had. Very frustrated to be wasting time and money. I’m hoping someone can provide some insight on roasting at high altitude. I’m at 4400ft. Thank

aicardo
03/07/2019 8:50 AM
tb

Husamka
03/05/2019 2:32 PM
husamka

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roasting with popper - help installing dimmer
dncpax
Hi there.

After reading lots of articles and watching videos, I still need help with modding my popper. The question is: is it possible to just cut 1 wire and install a dimmer to control just the heating, and leave the fan always running 100%?

This is a photo of the popper:
www.homecoffeeroaster.co.uk/images/imported/2019/01/103.jpg

Another angle:
www.homecoffeeroaster.co.uk/images/imported/2019/01/104.jpg
(You can more clearly see the input wire, and the earth wire going up to the bean container at the top. )

This is my interpretation of elements:
1 - input cable 220v
2 - switch on/off wires (I had removed the switch to disassemble the thing)
3 - circuit board that I don't know what it's for (may be transformer?)
4 - thermo cutoff?
5 - don't know - some security fuse?
6 - these wires come from the circuit board and enter the metal base, I assume to the heating element?

So I have a 1 phase dimmer, 220v 4a, and want to control the heating with it.

What wire can I cut and install the dimmer on?

I am inclined to cut the brown wire that comes from the #4 thermo cutter. It comes from the bottom through the circuit board and is originally the brown wire from the 220v input cable...

Thanks.
Duarte
 
renatoa
Depends how is your fan wired, taking its low voltage from a main heater split (parallel), or having its own series resistor.
Only in the second case you can mount the dimmer and let fan always 100%, which is not so good, imo...
This detail can't be seen from your pictures, it's internal to the blower build.
To find the connection type, I would unsolder the rightmost white wire, which probability to be fan power is 90%, and measure the resistance against the other wires.

The circuit board host the rectifier diodes bridge (motor is DC), and a LC filter, to
cut the motor brush sparks noise.
The 5 is indeed looking as a security fuse, but the placement is strange, usually this is inside the blower... so I guess is a current fuse, not thermal.
 
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