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11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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Transparent Fluid Bed Design
Hey, it looks quite interesting! Looking forward to the video.

The video has been updated. Here's a picture of what internals are inside the body.
CK attached the following image:

Edited by CK on 12/20/2018 8:50 AM
Here's a view of the air passage holes with duct work removed.
CK attached the following image:
This is the top side taken apart to insulate the heater. Without ceramic insulation the regular PLA plastic covers melt/deform easily. I did experiment with high temp 3DK TOP PLA filament. It is food grade, and can withstand temps to 230C, however, when annealed, it shrinks about 3-4% which makes it a challenge to design to specification.
CK attached the following image:

Edited by CK on 01/09/2019 8:43 AM
Here's a video showing the custom HEPA filter on the intake side.

Edited by CK on 03/17/2019 7:45 AM
Great info!

Can you tell us more about the logging setup you are using? It looks like a thermocouple connected to a tablet?

And what are the three displays for?
Thanks greencardigan,

There are 2 thermocouples in this machine... 1 in the hot air supply tube below the RC, and 1 in the top of the machine. The top connection is a custom soldered USB male/female connector to the thermocouple wires, allowing the top to detach.

These 2 sensors interface with a Yoctopuce thermocouple module, and Coffee Roaster Pro android software.

The 3 displays are power meters... They allow me to measure power consumption of the machine's 3 separate circuits, and at the same time avoid tripping circuit breakers. They aren't needed, but have helped learn the system.

A few days ago I insulated the heater body. After roasting 4 batches, the power meters showed the power savings when compared to the original roaster without insulation.
Edited by CK on 12/28/2018 7:20 AM
Here are some numbers from the last day of roasting with the machine. Roast #1 used the most power because the machine was not preheated before beginning. The following 3 roasts, after machine preheating, all had very similar w/hr usage despite having different bean charges.
CK attached the following image:
Air flow mapping the insulated transparent roaster.
CK attached the following image:
Here is a view of the heater housing used from a Twobiu hot air popper. Inside is the large coil (heater 1) of the Twobiu popper with the small coil removed. Heater 2 is from a Popflix popper. It is sandwiched on top of heater 1. The Popflix mica plates were trimmed with a dremel to fit this housing. Airflow comes up the center of the bottom heater - flows outwards towards the steel case passing heater coil 1 - then flows upwards along the wall of the case and inwards passing the Popflix heat coil 2 - finally exiting out the top center into the delivery pipe.
CK attached the following image:
A video of how the roast chamber and chaff collection chamber can be washed.

How often they need washing ?
renatoa wrote:

How often they need washing ?

This was after about 6 roasts. Normally after a day of roasting I store the machine in my office for a few weeks. I prefer to clean the containers before storing them, otherwise there can be a smell of residuals from chaff and oils.
Similar to the glass of the turbo oven lid.
Asked because I didn't seen so far nobody mentioning this detail for their FB or TO glass maintenance. Only the Gene guys sometimes.
Also curious how the drums roasters aren't cleaned for years, and not accumulating tons of residues...
In case anyone else is building a roaster that has 3D printed parts on the machine, you may want to install threaded inserts for a stronger connection. This is a simple and effective technique of how to do it.

Before these inserts, I used generic wood screws to hold parts together. That often caused the plastic to split when tightening, and the threads stripped easily. These cheap inserts are much better for making strong connections on your model.

The custom tool I'm using is a 20mm M3 hex screw with the leftover silicone feet from a hot air popper. These insulate my fingers from the hot screw. I put nuts on the screw to space out the silicone feet so they cover nearly the whole 20mm length. Just the tip of the screw is available for putting your threaded insert on as seen in the video. When you set the insert to the plastic, the silicone feet act as a natural level for the install.

I really like this design and execution. Well done!
Thanks Brandon, I'll be posting a parts list soon in case anyone would like to do something similar.
This is the coolest roaster I have ever seen! I have been searching to make my own and this is absolutely amazing! Hat off to you sir!
CK wrote:

Thanks Brandon, I'll be posting a parts list soon in case anyone would like to do something similar.

yes please!
Here's the completed transparent roaster with insulation and aesthetic covers over the insulated heater. The top in this image is removed for loading/unloading beans or chaff.
CK attached the following image:
CK wrote:

Here's the completed transparent roaster with insulation and aesthetic covers over the insulated heater. The top in this image is removed for loading/unloading beans or chaff.

Looks great!
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