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snwcmpr
10/18/2019 2:37 PM
Eth Nat Yirg Idido roasted yesterday. I dropped some off at a friends coffee shop. In a few days he will brew it and tell me what he thinks. We believe my roasts are better than what we buy.

snwcmpr
10/16/2019 2:52 PM
Thank you for all you guys do.

JackH
10/15/2019 2:02 AM
They seem to be after the shoutbox. They have been removed. I don't see anything in the forums.

snwcmpr
10/14/2019 3:27 PM
We have been hacked. A whole lot of posts that have filled up the whole forum.

snwcmpr
10/10/2019 4:49 AM
Honduras Royal Reserve today.

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Transparent Fluid Bed Design
greenthumb
Appreciate the help! Might have to visit the supplier in Port Angles for other supplies.
 
CK
Here's an image of the current iteration of the transparent roaster. (TC4, ZCD, Arduino UNO) The PID has been dialed in relatively well, and the machine now runs automated alarm files for full auto roasting if desired. Analog controls are also functional for manual roasting. From clicking ON in Artisan Roaster Scope, it auto charges, roasts to a specific temperature/time profile, drops/cools, then shuts off when the beans fall below a preset temperature. The RC now has dual purpose insulation installed for easier handling post roast and for quieting the bean pinging on the thin glass.
A video will be posted soon.

Not sure why, but the image isn't loading as usual? Screenshot loads with image data, but not the image itself... I'll try a screenshot of the roaster.
CK attached the following images:
tc4_test_image.jpg tc4_version_screenshot.jpg

Edited by CK on 04/19/2019 3:18 AM
 
CK
Here's another image. It is of the new sound tube feature of this roaster. It is a custom drilled copper tube with a layer of aluminum foil covering the holes. The thin foil allows for sound to be transmitted up the pipe and out the open-ended elbow fitting towards the user. With this modification, it is now possible to hear 1C and 2C for better roast logging.

This post isn't showing the uploads either...
CK attached the following image:
sound_port_screenshot.jpg

Edited by CK on 04/19/2019 3:19 AM
 
JitterzZ
Same happens to me. Try shrinking the image to 800 x 800.
By the way, very clever idea to hear the cracksThumbsUp
Edited by JitterzZ on 04/18/2019 6:10 PM
 
JackH
It seems to work for me. File names often cause problems. Linux based so try to avoid spaces and special characters. Also do not use the preview feature, it does not work with images and you will have to re-load them again.
JackH attached the following images:
test1.jpg 100_0491.jpg mod_oven_back_5.jpg

Edited by JackH on 04/18/2019 8:45 PM
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
CK
Thanks for the suggestions. The images were identical to my previous uploads so I'm not sure why they won't take this time. Screenshots worked fine.
 
CK
Roasted some Peru naturals today using the Artisan, Arduino UNO, TC4 setup. Here's a screenshot of the way it went. This was fully automated from the click of "ON"... charge, registering temperature markings, fan and heater, and drop. An alarm file was built to match the background profile. Still fine tuning the system PID and steps for the fan... These aren't the phase percentages many people use, but I'm experimenting with the naturals for development and end temperatures now. Tastes good!
CK attached the following image:
transparent_roaster_artisan_background_profile_follow.jpg
 
CK
A video showing bean agitation speed on the current setup.
- 300-gram charge
- ran at 50% and 100%

 
CK
Here's an accelerated video of the actual roast from the screen-shot above.

 
greenthumb
CK, I was wondering how the roasted beans are removed with your new modifications since it appears that the bean cone is placed within the tapper end of the glass cylinder vice the straighter more narrow section.
 
CK
greenthumb wrote:

CK, I was wondering how the roasted beans are removed with your new modifications since it appears that the bean cone is placed within the tapper end of the glass cylinder vice the straighter more narrow section.


Bean removal is the same as shown in the video on page 1. The whole carafe comes off to dump the beans and the cone stays friction fixed (via the copper tube) in its silicone base. The new metal cone is assembled by inserting from the top of the carafe and into the silicone base of the carafe. The cone is slightly too big to pass through the tapered bottom portion of glass so it all fits snug.
 
CK
Images explain better.
CK attached the following image:
metal_cone_setup.jpg
 
CK
Here's a video of how the sound tube was constructed and assembled. Before this modification sounds from 1C and 2C weren't audible on the roaster due to blower noise. Although the sounds of 1C and 2C are still slightly low, this unique feature allows roasters to hear the audible cracks for better data logging.
(I may remove some layers of aluminum foil to allow better sound transmission. This version has multiple layers.)

 
treyd
This is a really cool roaster build. Very nice design and use of materials. After seeing this post, I think I'll refrain from posting my own, now very humbled efforts. ;-)
I would like to ask why you chose to use the Smooth-sil 960 vs 950 or 940? Was it for the rigidity, the cure time or maybe the color? Also, how critical to the curing process is a vacuum chamber?
I have a 3D printer also and have used it for a number of roaster parts already. Now that I know of high temp casting silicone I really want to print some custom molds and use it in my roaster build for an RC mount and for mating other components.
You mentioned having a 600W vac motor you plan to use for a v2 build. Have you noticed, for a given airflow, if the 600W motor is quieter than the 250W motor?
Thanks again for sharing your build and all the related details.
 
CK
treyd wrote:

I would like to ask why you chose to use the Smooth-sil 960 vs 950 or 940? Was it for the rigidity, the cure time or maybe the color? Also, how critical to the curing process is a vacuum chamber?


Thanks Treyd. Smooth-Sil 960 has the highest Shore rating (60A I believe) so it is harder when cured. I didn't use a vacuum chamber at first, and the parts turned out okay. A vac chamber isn't needed for curing, only degassing. Without degassing there will be bubbles entrapped on the top of the curing part that may affect quality and looks. If you look at the bottom of the RC base in the above image you can see the bubbles there. They're still fully functional, and the defects are hidden so I didn't cast them again.
 
CK
treyd wrote:
You mentioned having a 600W vac motor you plan to use for a v2 build. Have you noticed, for a given airflow, if the 600W motor is quieter than the 250W motor?


V2 is a completely new build I'm working on. Different look and flow dynamics. It is louder using the 600W motor, but I think that is from the housing design being boxy. Some more R&D and insulation will lower the decibels on the new machine, hopefully to the sound level of the transparent roaster. The 250W blower runs at 70% at the start of a roast and down to 40% at the end of the roast with a low sound level of about 62-65 decibels on my sound meter.
 
salperta
This is totally amazing engineering! I am really inspired. I do have a question--would you mind sharing how you housed the vacuum motor, and got it to blow air? Did you merely house it so that the suctioned air which blows over the motor to cool it is then funneled in order to create higher pressure, or did you remove that steel sheath over the fans and divert the air from there? Or maybe your motor simply reverses?
Thanks so much CK, this is really incredible work, and beautiful to boot.
 
CK
salperta wrote:

I do have a question--would you mind sharing how you housed the vacuum motor, and got it to blow air?


Thank you Salperta. My motor housing is simply a "clam-shell type" design that entraps the motor. The top half engages the motor top mount with its rubber cushion, and bottom half engages the bottom mount and its rubber cushion. The parts have an intermeshed lip and groove setup for improved air tightness at the seam. The important thing is to keep it airtight from the inlet to the outlet side. Then simply decide how you'd like to direct your airflow to the heater section.
CK attached the following image:
vacuum_housing.jpg
 
CK
salperta wrote:

Did you merely house it so that the suctioned air which blows over the motor to cool it is then funneled in order to create higher pressure, or did you remove that steel sheath over the fans and divert the air from there?


Keep your motor stock... it will work just fine. After you test your housing and ensure the system works properly, and you have it just how you want it to look, seal the top (intake) and bottom (exhaust) seams with silicone for better pressurization of the system.
 
BrewBoy
Just joined the forum due to this thread. Amazing ingenuity! Thank you CK for all of your generous contributions thus far! Very much looking forward to seeing you V2 design, may I ask how it's coming along?
 
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