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CharcoalRoaster
05/14/2019 1:46 AM
I just roasted 500g of Mocha Mattari -- it's on it's third day of rest. Should be cracking into it tomorrow AM and I can't wait!

John Despres
05/12/2019 2:51 PM
Good evening! What's roasting? Yemen Mocha Mattari in my cup today.

snwcmpr
05/12/2019 5:59 AM
Hey Ed. BBQ grill

homeroaster
05/11/2019 1:47 PM
Hey, y'all! The Homeoroaster here. What's hot that I need to look at? pouring

allenb
05/11/2019 7:54 AM
Hi nano and welcome to HRO! I would post your message in HUGS which is near the end of the Discussion Forum list.

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TC4+ Arduino coffee roaster shield (TC4-compatible)
Ilovehash
Is TC4+ compatible with MEGA 2560? Is the flyback diode necessary? If so, for 20V 2A DC motor, what would be the appropriate diode to use? I believe 400x only get up to 1A which might not be sufficient.
 
mg512
I think the Mega won't work, since the I2C pins are different. The aArtisan code also uses some specific timer registers of the Atmega328P that's on the Uno, I wouldn't be sure those are the same on the 2560. Is there any specific reason you want to use the Mega?

The flyback diode is necessary, yes. Or at least, there's a high risk of damaging the MOSFET without it. There is higher current versions of the 400x diodes, see e.g. the table on the wikipedia page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1N400x_general-purpose_diodes
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
mg512
Oh, to add to that: If you are building a roaster out of a popcorn machine, the DC motor almost certainly was attached to a bridge rectifier made up of four diodes. The easiest thing to do is to simply reuse one of those - they ought to be the right specification for the motor, obviously.
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
Ilovehash
Reusing diode on the popcorn machine fan rectifier is a wonderful idea. Do you have capacitor across the motor on TC4+? I heard some people have problem with Arduino being reset due to DC motor power issues. What about noise from PWM? Do we need to filter it? As to MEGA2560 question, I thought it has more memory to handle aArtisan sketch. My impression is some configuration might run out of memory on an UNO.
 
renatoa
You can save significant amounts of memory commenting out the unused thermocouple types in the TC code.
For example if your TC type is K, then the code dealing with J and T types is simply occupying memory without never being used. And is a lot if bytes... hundreds.
Already did this, PM me for the files if you want to test.
 
mg512
Ilovehash wrote:

Reusing diode on the popcorn machine fan rectifier is a wonderful idea. Do you have capacitor across the motor on TC4+? I heard some people have problem with Arduino being reset due to DC motor power issues. What about noise from PWM? Do we need to filter it?


The motor in my popcorn machine had a few (small) capacitors across the positive and negative terminals, positive and motor housing, and negative and motor housing. I left those in place, but I didn't add any extra ones.

The only times I've had issues is when switching the motor on from 0 to 100% duty cycle, and even then only on a 24V power supply (when the motor is nominally about 20V). That plainly triggers an overcurrent protection in the power supply, and hence everything including the Arduino resets. I tried adding an extra capacitor but that didn't help. I'm sure a correctly specified capacitor would do the trick, but I've just never been bothered - I don't even usually use the fan at 100% anyway, and going 0->80% isn't an issue. Also never happened on the 19.5V laptop power brick I was using previously. I have also never had any issues with PWM noise, despite always running the fan at a partial duty cycle. Between the capacitors that came with the motor, and those on the voltage regulator on the TC4+, that seems to filter out plenty.

So, I would leave any capacitors that are already there in place. And I wouldn't worry about it beyond that, unless you actually run into problems. Even then, just gradually increasing fan speed would almost certainly be enough.



Ilovehash wrote:
As to MEGA2560 question, I thought it has more memory to handle aArtisan sketch. My impression is some configuration might run out of memory on an UNO.


Ah, okay. I wouldn't worry too much about that, again unless you run into a specific issue with it. I think it would really only happen if you wanted to enable _all_ the aArtisan features at the same time, like both PWM and phase-angle control simultaneously, but that would not even make sense except in the most exotic of configurations. Even then, as renatoa points out, there's plenty of unused code that you could comment out if needed.
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
AlexMunt
Hello to all, and thanks to you for sharing all this information. Awosome!!
I have some questions about the shield and its configurations. I don't know if I can post here , sorry if I'm wrong.
I bought a TC4+ a few weeks ago. Works fine on a Arduino Uno and aArtisanQ_PID loaded on it, with CONFIG_PAC2; Artisan 1.5.0 instaled, configured, and works well too. ( at this time only with Heater and temp. sensors)
My idea is to build an electric drum roaster, so I need to control a heater (230VAC resistor), a fan (230VAC, motor 32W), and the drum speed (12VDC gear box motor 40rpm).
On OT1 I have the Heater and works fine, with SSR.
On OT2 I have nothing yet but will be the Fan, with the ZCD on IO2.
On IO3, PWM 3,9KHz, to control a 12VDC motor. On this one I don't know how to configure the third comand from Artisan? Could you tell me if I can do it? And how.

The ET and the BT works fine.
Didn't test the bluetooth yet, but I will.

Very excited so far by the TC4, and thanks a lot!!
 
greencardigan
Just use the IO3;X command to change the PWM output on the IO3 output. Essentially the same as the set up for OT1 and OT2.

For example, set up a slider with the serial Command IO3;{}

Or buttons with serial command IO3;100 etc.
 
mg512
Also make sure you're using the latest version of the aArtisanQ_PID sketch. IIRC in earlier versions you couldn't do PWM on IO3 if you were using PAC config.

And let us know how it goes! :)
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
AlexMunt
Thank you both for the fast answer.
I have downloaded aArtisanQ_PID_6_7.zip from Greencardigan's github page, 4 months old docuemnt. I think is the latest version.

I will test the button and the slider with IO3, and let you know the results.
Thanks again,
 
AlexMunt
AlexMunt wrote:

Thank you both for the fast answer.
I have downloaded aArtisanQ_PID_6_7.zip from Greencardigan's github page, 4 months old docuemnt. I think is the latest version.

I will test the button and the slider with IO3, and let you know the results.
Thanks again,


Hello,
I have tested the slider and the button like Greencardigan told me, but no output on IO3. Maybe I don't have the proper user.h file configuration?
 
mg512
AlexMunt wrote:
Hello,
I have tested the slider and the button like Greencardigan told me, but no output on IO3. Maybe I don't have the proper user.h file configuration?


I think you have to set CONFIG_PAC2_IO3HTR to enable the IO3 command when in PAC mode. If that doesn't help either, try CONFIG_PWM, just to see if it's a software or hardware issue.
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
greencardigan
The IO3 output should still work in CONFIG_PAC2 mode.

How are you confirming that it's not working? Have you got a multimeter to check the output on the IO3 output pin?
 
AlexMunt
greencardigan wrote:

The IO3 output should still work in CONFIG_PAC2 mode.

How are you confirming that it's not working? Have you got a multimeter to check the output on the IO3 output pin?


I can't see the output signal, using an osciloscope,
Signal 1 is the OT1 on 3,9KHz configured (nolmaly I have it on 8Hz)
Signal 2 is the IO3, and should be a 3,9KHz PWM, but is not.

[img]farm8.staticflickr.com/7856/46738965274_2a4aa9951a.jpg20190325_073558 by Alexandru Bogdan Munteanu, en Flickr[/img]
Just don't know where I'm wrong, congiguring, measuring?
 
mg512
Are you measuring that directly on the IO3 pin?
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
AlexMunt
mg512 wrote:

Are you measuring that directly on the IO3 pin?


Yes, of course, it should be a PWM, correct me if I'm wromg.
 
mg512
AlexMunt wrote:
Yes, of course, it should be a PWM, correct me if I'm wromg.


OK, that is strange. Should indeed be PWM. Let's narrow it down: Try removing the TC4+ altogether, and measure on the Arduino's IO3 pin. That would rule out the TC4+. And, try the sketch in CONFIG_PWM and CONFIG_PAC2_IO3HTR mode and see if it makes any difference. That would rule out a hardware issue. Also, can you post your user.h, or email it to me?
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
AlexMunt
mg512 wrote:

AlexMunt wrote:
Yes, of course, it should be a PWM, correct me if I'm wromg.


OK, that is strange. Should indeed be PWM. Let's narrow it down: Try removing the TC4+ altogether, and measure on the Arduino's IO3 pin. That would rule out the TC4+. And, try the sketch in CONFIG_PWM and CONFIG_PAC2_IO3HTR mode and see if it makes any difference. That would rule out a hardware issue. Also, can you post your user.h, or email it to me?



Ok that's it, It was a loose contact, I think. Now I have the signal on IO3 ( 20% on the first photo and 90% on the second). I took off the TC4+ shield, and tested the continuity of the soldered pins, everything was fine. I measured the signal on the Arduino pin 4 and GND and the signal was OK. I plug in again the TC4+ shield and measured. Everything was OK. For that reason I think it was a loose.

[img]farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/40501175703_a687851a2b_m.jpg20190325_224416 by Alexandru Bogdan Munteanu, en Flickr[/img]

[img]farm8.staticflickr.com/7919/46552003605_0b5bb57fea_m.jpg20190325_224354 by Alexandru Bogdan Munteanu, en Flickr[/img]

Thanks again, mg512, a lot, for helping me to solve the ishue.

P.S.:The user.h file is atatched.
AlexMunt attached the following file:
user_1.zip [3.48kB / 14 Downloads]
 
mg512
Ah, haha, it's always the simplest low-tech things that don't even occur to you! Glad you sorted it out. :)
 
https://www.tindie.com/products/15798/
Ilovehash
Placed an order of TC4+. Got the shipment and have it setup. The DC motor control works fine. My UNO did not reset itself with TC4+. I had UNO reset issue when I use DIY IRF540 circuit to drive the FAN. Really happy with TC4+ DC Fan control.

The thermal couple however is very sensitive to noise and I got jumpy readings. The same TC installed on MAX6675 are very stable. Once it is installed on TC4+, the temperature reading became very unstable. Moved TC4+ to different room in my house the outcome would vary. In some room it produces stable reading. Other rooms would not reliably read the temperature. Is it an EMI issue? Any good solution to it?
 
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