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10-17-2018 11:03
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10-14-2018 07:41
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Homeroasters.org » BUILDING A ROASTER » Fluidbed Roaster
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Oreck XL blower and Popper heating with recirc
ChicagoJohn
I finally received some fine screen to use in place of the cloth vacuum filter that pretty much clogs up after each roast and has to be replaced with a clean 5" disc. OGH recommended 120 mesh, but could only find 100 mesh so used that. After two successive roasts this morning, it looks clean enough to go at least 5 or so before cleaning. Big improvement in air flow - Thanks OGH!

For some reason my line voltage at max power has dropped from 115VAC to 111, but at ~1600 watts, I'm still able to steer a 300 gm charge along a target profile for both what I prefer for pour-over / cone brewing and the somewhat darker roast my wife likes for her espresso. She prefers roasts that are just into 2C. In this system, in-chamber cooling is very rapid.

I've attached data log profiles for the two I did this morning along with photos that I hope will illustrate differences in color. I decided to throw in a Charbucks espresso roast shot for comparison. After trying Lavazza Super Crema and some previous roasts I did, she says she now notices the charcoal flavors in the Charbucks she'd been drinking for the past 10 years.

I've been getting up to right around 180°F on the blower motor outlet case temperature by the end of each roast running on 100% recirc, nowhere near the resettable thermal fuse or upper limit I set for the microprocessor to monitor. That whole component of the design turned out to have been unnecessary, but I guess it's better to be safe than sorry.
ChicagoJohn attached the following images:
three-roast-comparison.jpg lighter.jpg darker.jpg

Edited by ChicagoJohn on 04-18-2017 05:40
So many beans; so little time....
 
ChicagoJohn
With a 20A autotransformer to boost my line voltage up to 120VAC now, I am working my way up to see what the maximum capacity will be. Today I did a 340 gm Sumatra Mandheling from Happy Mug from a cold start and because the 1C was quite a bit later than I'd been seeing (374°F), I decided to take it a bit longer to about where my wife prefers them for espresso. I did a print-screen on the eee-PC I'm using for data logging.

Maximum blower exhaust temp reached 180°F where it's been running for several previous trials. I used 1.7kW; 14A at 120VAC with about 3A for the OreckXL motor. There is a 20A fuse in the autotransformer and the breaker on this circuit is also 20A.

So everything is looking pretty good and I'll try and make a YouTube video this coming week. Thanks again to all for sharing your experience and ideas which I was able to use to get this far.
ChicagoJohn attached the following image:
sumatra-mandheling-happy-mug.jpg

So many beans; so little time....
 
ChicagoJohn
Counting up my stored runs, I was surprised to find today was my 73rd. Thought I'd post a few pictures and share how things worked out. I'm running this on a 20A circuit and with the recirc typically reaching around 180°F at the motor outlet, I run the heating coils (7.4 Ohm) at 14.8A/118VAC from an autotransformer and the blower motor at 400 watts / 3.3A, just under the 20A curcuit limit (and 20A autotransformer fuse). I've found that I can comfortably process 340 gm of greens (4 runs / 3 lb). I have done 500 gm, but it's a lot more of a balancing act so I've just settled on 340 gm.

Recirc air at the inlet to the heater assembly typically gets up to 160 - 200°F and typically runs around 180°F max. I replace the resettable thermal fuse the OEM used which cut out around 80C with a SF113e and I also monitor it with a Nano programmed to shut everything down if it gets over 205°F. The heating coils are on 20A relay that the Nano controls and will shut down instantly if the heater wattage drops so as to prevent excessive temperature in the heating assembly.

The heating assembly is from a PopLite and I replaced the 30AWG nichrome with 26 in order to reduce the 9.6 ohms for the OEM coils in parallel to 7.4 ohm for higher wattage output.

As I recall OGH saying he does, I basically just start out at full heat and control the roast by blower motor speed and percentage of recirc -- using the valve on the airbox at the bottom. The first roast here, lighter, was run with no preheat. I took the second one up to 415°F and made melange / blend of the wet / dry processed yirgacheffe's.

After a minute of cooling, I remove the chaff collector and let the excess chaff blow off and then disconnect the roasting assembly from the heating coils and motor below and dump the roast into a collecting bowl without removing the globe.
ChicagoJohn attached the following images:
73rd-roast.jpg 72nd-roast.jpg bean-motion.jpg orekxl-based-roaster.jpg roaster_22.jpg

So many beans; so little time....
 
oldgearhead
Way to go, John! You roast pretty much, the same as I do. The recycled heat usually does not exceed 160°F in my roaster is about the only difference i noticed. My used 2-stage, flow-through spa blower has been doing fine with the hot air for several years (6) now. Also note the second and third roasts usually take one minute less time to reach the same roast level as the first.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
bmt_1_9.jpg

Edited by oldgearhead on 09-13-2017 07:42
No oil on my beans...
 
JackH
One of the best roasting setups I have seen John!
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
ChicagoJohn
oldgearhead wrote:

Way to go, John! You roast pretty much, the same as I do. The recycled heat usually does not exceed 160°F in my roaster is about the only difference i noticed. My used 2-stage, flow-through spa blower has been doing fine with the hot air for several years (6) now. Also note the second and third roasts usually take one minute less time to reach the same roast level as the first.


Thanks. Never could have done it without your experience with recycled heat -- I'd have been too concerned about its effect on the motor. But I found out that an SF113e is fairly common on vacuum cleaners so it seems they can get up to 235°F briefly without long term damage. I think the OEM fuse value was so much lower because the OreckXL is meant to be handheld. Safety first. I bought a spare used OreckXL off ebay just in case, but I'll be surprised if I every have any heat related problems.

The profile I've been using seems pretty close to what you do. I hadn't yet considered going to 440F. I do go over 410F for my wife's espresso. She had been using Starbucks which is like charcoal, relatively speaking and Lavazza's espresso which is not as burned as Charbucks but still darker than what I've been making for her lately. Maybe I'll try going out to 15 minutes, see what temp I reach and see how she likes it.

Anyway thanks again for all the help and advice. This sure beats the hell out of my modified popcorn popper in so many ways.
So many beans; so little time....
 
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ChicagoJohn
JackH wrote:

One of the best roasting setups I have seen John!


Wow... thanks so much for the complement, Jack. Never would have happened had it not been for HRO; especially OldGearHead, allenb and BenKeith. With the quantities of coffee we're consuming lately, I'm sure glad I have it !
So many beans; so little time....
 
ChicagoJohn
Finally got around to making a You Tube video. I counted 85 roasts so far; around 60 lb, and things are working pretty smoothly.

https://youtu.be/...
Edited by ChicagoJohn on 10-13-2017 04:41
So many beans; so little time....
 
captnf
Could you please go through how you built your latest Passive Chaff Collector(PCC).

I have looked at your previous post and saw the first one on your popper but didn't find anything on the second PCC . Thank You !
 
ChicagoJohn
captnf wrote:

Could you please go through how you built your latest Passive Chaff Collector(PCC).

I have looked at your previous post and saw the first one on your popper but didn't find anything on the second PCC . Thank You ! I used an 8 inch to 5 inch reduction duct fitting. On the part that fits over the upper edge of the Coleman globe, I made a number of cuts about 1/2" wide and bent them inward and outward alternating so that it fits on the silicone rings on top of the globe. inside, I put a 5 inch section that is capped off at the top and the side discharge ports were cut just below that cap. I had to extend the upper part of the piece with brass sheet metal. On top of that, I fit an 8 inch dia pizza holder than has stainless screen attached on the inside. So this whole thing filters out the chaff which falls into the space between the outter 8" portion and the inner 5 inch extension that is capped off and has exhaust ports at the top. I think this is shown in one of the videos I put on YouTube but if you would like some photos, let me know and I'll post them here. It works pretty good but some smaller chaff escapes. The assembly is held on top on one side by the copper elbow fittings on the recirculation tubes and on the opposite side by a small bungee type cord that hooks onto the upper edge.

https://youtu.be/...
Edited by JackH on 06-04-2018 07:11
So many beans; so little time....
 
captnf
Thank You , With your great explanation and stopping the video to look carefully when you cleaned out the PCC I think I've got it. Approximately what are the sizes of the side discharge ports and the spacing around the circumference of the 5" pipe ? Also changing gears would you say the total capacity of your silicone tubing for heat recovery would be equivalent to say a 1 1/2 to 2" ID. pipe. Thanks again ChicagoJohn
 
ChicagoJohn
captnf wrote:

Thank You , With your great explanation and stopping the video to look carefully when you cleaned out the PCC I think I've got it. Approximately what are the sizes of the side discharge ports and the spacing around the circumference of the 5" pipe ? Also changing gears would you say the total capacity of your silicone tubing for heat recovery would be equivalent to say a 1 1/2 to 2" ID. pipe. Thanks again ChicagoJohn


I cut two discharge ports on opposite sides near the top such that they tend to shoot the air out counter clockwise and a bit downward to hopefully create somewhat of a cyclone effect where particles can slow down enough to drop to the bottom, but I think the main thing is just to direct the air downward a bit., but that may not even matter. It seems like a lot collects on top of the 5 inch cap.

The ID of the three tubes I'm using is 1/2" so that would be a total area of about 0.6 sq in which in a single tube would be an ID of about 0.9 inches. I don't think it matters, though, because gasses are compressible and the velocities involved are low so that you could probably use a single 1/2" ID tube and not see any meaningful restriction in CFM recirc gas. I just used 3 because that used up most of the length of silicon tube I bought.
So many beans; so little time....
 
captnf
Thanks so much ChicagoJohn, the info is greatly appreciated.
 
ChicagoJohn
captnf wrote:

Thanks so much ChicagoJohn, the info is greatly appreciated.


Good luck with your project.
So many beans; so little time....
 
homeroaster
I am a huge fan of repurposing things that I can get for cheap to build coffee roasters. Looks like you've maximized that! LOL with all of the amazing controls you have, it looks to be a winner as far as getting quality roasts. Way to go!
*********************
Ed Needham
"to absurdity and beyond!"
http://www.homero...
http://www.facebo...EdNeedham1
*********************
 
http://www.homeroaster.com
ChicagoJohn
homeroaster wrote:

I am a huge fan of repurposing things that I can get for cheap to build coffee roasters. Looks like you've maximized that! LOL with all of the amazing controls you have, it looks to be a winner as far as getting quality roasts. Way to go!


Thanks, Ed. It does seem to be working pretty good. I do a Fall campaign to get enough vacuum packed for the freezer to use from mid Nov - March as the weather here in Chicagoland is not often conducive to roasting outdoors, and typically I'm doing 5 - 6 roasts in an hour and a half early morning session without emptying the chaff collector or changing out the recirc screen. Control inputs are minimal and batch-to-batch matching of target curve is excellent. And no components have failed so far, knock on wood. The only problems I've had is if my wife starts operating kitchen appliances, during the roast, I wind up turning up the rheostat to keep the voltage constant and I've blown the 20A fuse in it three or four times when she forgets.
So many beans; so little time....
 
homeroaster
I would lose my mind if I couldn't roast at least once a week. I keep all my friends and family supplied and a few others that want my coffee from Word of Mouth. I do 8 pound batches and usually do two or three a week. I usually keep 2 full size burlap bags of beans on hand to roast. Keeps a little extra cash in my pocket but not much.
*********************
Ed Needham
"to absurdity and beyond!"
http://www.homero...
http://www.facebo...EdNeedham1
*********************
 
http://www.homeroaster.com
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