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Homeroasters.org » BUILDING A ROASTER » Turbo Oven Roasters
Who is here? 1 guest(s)
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Baby George Foreman Roaster
Kinder
I purchased a george foreman rotisserie on CL for $40. I have since modified the roaster quite a bit. Just wanted to get some feed back and thoughts to possibly improve. I have only been roasting for a couple of months.
Kinder attached the following images:
img_1572.jpg img_1561.jpg img_1560.jpg
 
Kinder
Also wanted to add that I have been roasting anywhere from 16 oz to 20 oz in 15:00 - 18:00 with a preheat of 400-450 Deg.
 
renatoa
Wish I could buy such machine locally... phenomenal idea !

At first read, looking at first picture only, I thought you fit a real TO in one of the side walls, this would have been really striking Grin
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
renatoa
Actually... I found some on US eBay cheaper than you get yours... but the shipping cost to EU is a fortune, $100 :(

What is the basket size ?
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
Kinder
Yeah, I did not see that I had turbo oven selected for the topic on this thread even though I did build one of those as well for a back up roaster.
The drum is one I purchased on ebay for 15 bucks, its made for the Jr. GF so I had to modify it to fit the Baby GF. I think the size is 7" in diameter by 8.5" in length. I can double check though.
 
renatoa
No worries, this machine is difficult to place in an existing category anyway, borrowing a bit of all others: hot gun, but no machine bread, nor dog bowl, a touch of behmor... truly frankenroaster :)
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
renatoa
I have the opportunity to get one at a good price, $72 delivered from US to EU, please help me decide...

- what is the inner space available for the biggest drum can fit ?
- why isn't the internal heater appropriate for roasting and a hot gun mod is needed ?

Thank you !
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
JackH
Len at CoffeeRoastersClub is a member here and here is a link to his George Foreman drum. Maybe you can get some ideas for your build.

http://www.coffee...eman-drum/

I have heard that these units are 950W. I think if it was insulated better and had more power, it would make a nice roaster.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
Kinder
Yes, that is correct. The Baby GF is 950W but the Big GF is 1500W I beleive. Also they a Jr. model but not sure on the wattage. It takes way to long to roast with unmodified Baby GF. If your are willing to do a few mods you can convert it into a pretty solid roaster. Good luck!
 
renatoa
Already on the (transatlantic) way to me :)

Please, can you measure inner space to figure what is the biggest drum I can fit ?
More exactly, if my existing 14x23 cm (5.5x9") would fit.

Thank you !
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
Kinder
Yeah will do. If you ordered the Baby GF model I would stick with the size drum that I have because anything bigger would more than likely not fit. I will measure it up when I get home from work.
 
Kinder
Also, you want a little space in between the drum and heating element.
 
Kinder
Ok, the drum I have is 8-3/4" in length by 7" in diameter. I also measured the inside length from the face of the gear to the other wall and its about 10". So the drum you have should work. You will have to combine your drum with the rotisserie parts that come with the baby GF. Let me know If you have any trouble.
 
renatoa
You can see what I got, is eBay item 152446326971.
The last picture shows what parts will come included, no round basket, but already having one, as I wrote.
Still two weeks wait :)
DIY: IR to bean, Popcorn
Moded commercial: Dieckmann RoestMeister, Nesco
PID/ramp/soak controllers
Grinder: mod'ed Porlex to 47 conical burrs
 
coffeeismagick
hi Kinder,

thanks for sharing. have a couple of Qs:

1. did you mod the rotation speed? if not, is 3 RPM rotation speed resulted in even roasts?

2. did you add a PID?


I will be receiving a GF JR tomorrow, will add a popcorn popper instead of a heat gun, hot air would get into the roaster via a small piece of 3" flex duct through the drip-tray opening at the bottom, therefore I would avoid cutting a hole in the roaster. the drip-tray opening will allow chaff to be falling out/off, or I would add a mesh net at drip-tray opening to collect the chaff.

will update the actual outcome, hope it would be as expected as stated above.
 
renatoa
The lower the rotation speed, the lower the quantity you can roast in a given time.
Also, if not a proper agitation, i.e. just layers sliding, instead rolling/jumping beans, as is under 5 RMP, the heat penetrate inner beans very late, thus you have a big delta between out of drum temperature and inner drum temperature (I don't mean BT, just air inside drum)
The later is a very serious issue, because if you raise too much the external drum temperature, in an attempt to force the inner air raise, you risk to go over 250C in drum metal, and in this case scorching of beans in direct contact with will occur.

Based on experiments I did with a drum of the GF size, but in other oven, I concluded that 10 RPM is the minimum you can use, only if you also build inside the drum the most complicate, and effective, vane system you can imagine.
The best example I can give you is Gene roaster glass drum, it is 10 RPM, and that uber sized paddle inside literally paddles through the beans.

Without decent vane(s) you can't hope to have proper agitation under 20 RPM.

Also, I would encourage you to use IR (radiant) heat together with convection, instead hot air only.
With a mesh drum, as you plan to use, there are chances enough IR find the way inside drum, and the radiant heat is much better.
In this moment I switched for some time to IR to bean method, no drum, and is a completely new universe... very low ET, no scorching, far less smoke, no burnt chaff, it is golden instead brown, and incredible even penetration inside beans.
 
coffeeismagick
thank you renatoa for your advice.

renatoa wrote:

Also, I would encourage you to use IR (radiant) heat together with convection, instead hot air only.


I will be using the radiant heat from the GF oven's original heating elements as the main heat source, and adding the hot air from a pop corn popper for convection and to control the roasting speed, as we already know that the original heating elements alone would not be sufficient for GF to roast the coffee beans in under 15 minutes time. are you suggesting that I ought to add additional heating elements to the oven?

I would be interested in hearing your experience with using and modding the GF that you had purchased in March, are you happy with it?

I guess I would research for a replacement ac/dc motor that is capable to drive the GF drum to rotate at 10 to 20 RPM per your findings about the drum rotation speed for GF. any advice on that?

thanks so much again for your help.
 
renatoa
The march GF was lost in transit over the pond and Paypal refunded me. No answer from seller. :(

I am using a 30 RPM motor that can be found on ebay searching for 50KTYZ and 30 rpm. Available multiple models in the 2.5-50 RPM range.
Shaft is 7mm, no idea how is the GF motor coupled, maybe it works...
 
coffeeismagick
renatoa wrote:

I am using a 30 RPM motor that can be found on ebay searching for 50KTYZ and 30 rpm. Available multiple models in the 2.5-50 RPM range.
Shaft is 7mm, no idea how is the GF motor coupled, maybe it works...


GF uses TYJ-50 motor, which I believe has the same size as TYC-50. The latter has wide range of RPM selections and are available on ebay, but the GF motor has a longer shaft, and I don't think I can just swap out the shaft because the shaft is part of the motor gear system. I might be able to cut out the GF shaft and attach it to the TYC-50 shaft using a coupler, since there are holes on the shafts of both motors, it is possible, but it may be difficult to actually make that happen. I may had to live with the 3 RPM rotation speed, other people had reported that the result of the roasts with 3 RPM had been even, but they may or may not be the true connoisseurs who can tell the difference.
 
coffeeismagick
just received the GF JR, it actually uses different motor with an external gear box, not the same as with GF Baby which uses a straight TYJ-50 motor with a long shaft.

it would be very difficult to replace this motor LD-5801, as it is not one of the common interchangeable gear motors like TYC. TYJ. and KTYZ motors, I guess I had to live with the 3 RPM rotation speed with this roaster. I could replace the motor and gear box with a large fan motor, but I am trying to keep things as simple as possible, so I will see how the roast would do with 3 rpm drum rotation, before attempting a big mod for this.

on the plus side, the drum basket that come with GF JR seem "perfect", it has the similar fins configuration as the Behmor 1600 drum, so other than the slow rotation speed, this roaster is just like a Behmor 1600, I am building my own controller to interface artisan anyway, none of the Behmor control panel and program mode is relevant to me. I got this GF JR roaster in new condition with all parts still in original plastic bags, from ebay, for$53 and change which includes shipping, can't beat the price really.

I am going to start my first batch of roast now, will start with 250g first.
 
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