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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
Andrew
I just got a bread machine hacked and hooked up. I just roasted a spaghetti jar worth of beans. The bread machine was a DC motor, exactly like the one posted above. (Toastmaster TBR2). I attached the AC in to both the diodes closest to the edge of the board. Then there as an AC In tab that I attached the other side of the AC. That tab had 110/230 (230 was markered out.) Then I plugged the DC Motor back in to the same plug (labeled DC Motor.) Took a picture.
img52.imageshack.us/img52/8426/dcmotorboard.png
Left orange = 2 diodes, AC in.
Middle Red = DC Motor Plug.
Right Orange = Board AC In (Tab).
I took off the window and put the heat gun in through that hole. It worked pretty well. The large majority of the chaff fell outside of the bread bucket. Only problem is the hot exhaust melted the rubber cover to the heat gun switch. So I need to figure out what I am going to do about that.
Full size image here:
http://img52.imag...rboard.png
PS, I don't take any responsibility for any information contained here-in. What you do with it is your own responsibility.
Edited by Andrew on 03/27/2011 2:36 PM
 
seedlings
Well done, Andrew. If you want, you can drill/cut a hole from the interior side wall to the exterior side wall of the bread machine. Line this with aluminum foil or flashing so the chaff doesn't fall between the walls, down to the belt and pulley. Now your heat (and chaff) will go down onto the beans, over the hopper wall and out the new opening. Complete the setup by filling around the viewing glass hole with aluminum foil, so that your gun rests nicely. Now all your heat goes down and out instead of back up to the heatgun.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Andrew
Good idea. I was thinking of an aluminum sheet metal cover, drilling 2 holes, 1 for the heat gun, 1 for exhaust/chaff collection. Drilling a hole through the wall of the bread machine makes much more sense. I will have to find/borrow a decent size spade bit though.
 
seedlings
Look for a hole saw instead of a spade bit. I used a 1" hole saw and it worked fine. If I use a spade bit for anything but wood bad things happen.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
DavidG
seedlings wrote:
Look for a hole saw instead of a spade bit. I used a 1" hole saw and it worked fine. If I use a spade bit for anything but wood bad things happen.

CHAD


+1

I did exactly as CHAD recommends on mine. Hole saw all the way.

Cheers
David
europiccola | yama + coryrod | chemex | AP | clever
wbp1 | wepp1 | bm/hg | co hybrid (still coming soon...)
 
Andrew
Something like this I take it?www.jaykayguttersupply.com/images/tools/hole_saw_bit_m.jpg
Was thinking that wouldn't cut through the metal as well as spade bit with the metal clamped onto some junk 2x4. But I don't cut metal that often...
 
seedlings
That is exactly what will do the trick Andrew.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dkoch
Hi Guys,

Just a quick THANK YOU for the instructions on modding the bread machine down to just the motor. I read it, and read it, and then tried it. It worked the first time!! I'm so grateful to you all. (Especially, Chad, who helped so much over time.) This helps me soooooooo very much.

What a great forum with reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally great folks!!!
Sincerely,
Dave
 
ginny
Dave:

if we were "reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally great folks!!!"


you would have posted an avatar by now. 64 posts and you missed MY POSTS
about using an avatar? I think not.

* USE AN AVATAR please; this is a small site. If you don't want to, after a few posts we will give you one. If you do not know how to add an avatar please let any administrator know...


the above came from: http://forum.home...ad_id=2439


I will give you one today, only today or you will be ...

ginny

rockon
Edited by ginny on 09/17/2012 10:25 AM
 
dkoch
I've been away all year, as my wife has been very, very sick in the hospital all year. I truly meant to say thank you with my post. I'm sorry I offended you.
 
David
dkoch wrote:
I've been away all year, as my wife has been very, very sick in the hospital all year. I truly meant to say thank you with my post. I'm sorry I offended you.

Dave, you didn't offend anybody. Really.
If you had, ginny wouldn't have given you that sassy avatar. >Smoooch<

Sorry to hear that news about your wife. That's a long, hard pull.
Our best wishes to the both of you.

I'm glad your breadmachine project worked out so smoothly.
I hope its coffee has given you some warm comfort along the way

Check by whenever you can. You are always welcome here.
 
tom957
I'm so glad I have this thread archived in my brain. It's been over 4 years since I last looked here -- life happens I guess. The machine I modified way back when lasted me for 3+ years until the Teflon started to wear off. That's when I decided to retire it.

Fast forward to today: I bought a new used BM from a thrift store and knew where to go to remember how to rewire it. Once again the first try was successful, and I have to say thanks again to David for having made this thread.
 
N
Hi everyone, first post here!
Im trying to do this mod, but am stuck.
The motor keeps buzzing when plugged in.
Could anyone give me a hand? Thanks a million!
Nathan/Amsterdam/The Netherlands
i41.tinypic.com/6p18ax.jpg

ps. I "measured everything through" when it was still on the board.
Red should meet red. and white should meet brown.
Only questions were with the two blacks and the blue one. guess thats where the mistake is.
I cut all the rest off, incl circuitboard etc. So hope i didnt forget to keep anything. Haha. :/
 
N
Ooow god haha.
I got it "working." Theres this wheel on top of the motor and while its buzzing i thought; "lets give this a spin."
And...well.. it started the motor.
Still think the cap is wrongly inserted into the chain otherwise the cap would do this for me wouldnt it, so my question still stands i guess?
I mean, i shouldnt be handcranking it everytime, should i? :)
 
JackH
Hi Nathan and Welcome!

It seems correct. One of the problems is different color motor wires for different bread machines.

Are the grey connectors connecting the wires together? Two red together and the blue to the two black wires? I am not familiar with those grey connectors.

It does seem like the capacitor is not in the circuit or it is connected to the wrong color motor lead.

Can you re-check the connections with an Ohm Meter? AC unplugged of course. It is hard to check the capacitor leads on both ends because they look like they are encapsulated into the capacitor's case.

--Jack
 
N
Thanks JackH!

Yes, the grey things are joining the wires. (its like these little caps that clamp the wires, but these are for 5 wires)
But also tried it now just twisting the copperwire around eachother.
Still no improvement.

All other combinations of connecting result in humming also, but dont give me the option to "handcrank" the motor.

The capacitors ends of the wire goes inside its case yes.
Edited by N on 07/26/2013 10:40 AM
 
N
omg! Its working!
Apparently, as opposed to the picture, i had to switch the white and the black wire going to the motor.
Yes!
Can finally sleep now, goodnight!
Tomorrow roastingtime!
 
JackH
I am glad it is working. Please post photos of your completed roaster when you get a chance!
 
southern_roast
Have anyone seen this type? The wires to the capacitor and the motor ran into the controller board and never touched. This is a Breadman TR845.

Thanks for the help!
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131023_19_12_04_pro.jpg wp_20131023_19_11_58_pro.jpg wp_20131023_17_25_26_pro_1.jpg
 
CoryZ
Southern_roast:

If you flip up to page 1 of this thread look at the diagram in post #1.

While bread machines are notorious for using odd colored wires, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that since it's using black and white that we're talking normal wiring colors here.

Red is to the start capacitor (far right wire in the diagram)
White is to the big prong of the electrical cord and the start capacitor (middle wire in the diagram)
Black is to the small prong (hot) of the electrical cord. (left wire in the diagram)

Plug yourself into an outlet strip and you have an easy off / on switch while you test this out.

-Cory
 
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