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snwcmpr
10/18/2019 2:37 PM
Eth Nat Yirg Idido roasted yesterday. I dropped some off at a friends coffee shop. In a few days he will brew it and tell me what he thinks. We believe my roasts are better than what we buy.

snwcmpr
10/16/2019 2:52 PM
Thank you for all you guys do.

JackH
10/15/2019 2:02 AM
They seem to be after the shoutbox. They have been removed. I don't see anything in the forums.

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10/14/2019 3:27 PM
We have been hacked. A whole lot of posts that have filled up the whole forum.

snwcmpr
10/10/2019 4:49 AM
Honduras Royal Reserve today.

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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
David
Nice follow through, somegeek.

The base and that wiring box are nice additions. You'll be very happy that you took the time to do that. I like the way you made the double-walled bowl. If the outside of the bowl gets too hot, you can always go back and add some insulation.

Regarding the Turbo Oven. If you ever decide to do that, there are two key things to consider. Since the heating element and fan assembly drops down into the bowl, it must be wide enough not only to fit, but also to have room for the heated air to come out its sides and down into the bowl. The second is that the bowl must be deep enough allow for the full expansion of the beans plus an inch or so. Otherwise the beans will stop agitating and the top layer will scorch. [Don't ask.] Just notice how full it gets when you are roasting the maximum batch size with your heatgun. Then measure how far down from the top rim it is and jot that down for future reference.

Great job. Please keep us posted on your roasting progress.
 
somegeek
Finished up the lid/heat gun holder. This should shorten my roast times and help with temp regulation. It's easy enough to tip the gun/lid to view the beans under the lid. I may cut a 1/2" or so edge off the lid if needed later on for viewing.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_11.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_12.jpg

The heat gun's position balances it nicely across the lid.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_13.jpg

I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

All done with this for now I think.
Edited by somegeek on 11/22/2009 6:16 AM
 
David
somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)
 
seedlings
David wrote:
somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)


KK and Farmroast don't use exhust vents for their turbo ovens - might not be required as long as there's cool intake air??? Not sure about the Heatgun.

I put a 1" hole in the back of the breadmaker for chaff/air exit.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 11/22/2009 3:55 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
somegeek
David wrote:
somegeek wrote:I dig on the fact that this acts like a heat shield for the gun as well so the plastic won't take so much blow back heat.

BTW, do you have a designated exit for all that heated air?
Just wondering....B)


Good question... I trimmed off ~3/8" of the lip on each side of the lid next to the handle (initially so it'd be able to fit) and the side opposite of the heat gun entry is open roughly 3/16". I verified this exhaust area is sufficient by turning the gun on on high speed and lifting the lid. I heard no appreciable pitch difference in the gun's motor with the lid up or down so I am assuming these gaps are sufficiently exhausting the airflow. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/22/2009 5:09 PM
 
somegeek
Did my first roast with the lid/HG holder in place today(3rd roast for me).

~15oz (spilled some beans onto the ground)

0:00 - gun at 10
4:45 - steam
9:20 - FC
10:00 - backed off heat to 8
11:15 - Quiet FC finishing / SC started (I think)
14:00 - pulled with SC still rolling

More consistent and darker - Vienna I am thinking?

Will be nice to get a few more roasts logged to figure out some 'rule of thumb' temp settings and timing.

Also thinking a 1lb 4oz roast will hold a little more heat?

At any rate, this lid was the ticket to getting the heat regulated and a more consistent roast. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/23/2009 10:06 AM
 
David
In another thread
somegeek wrote:I am looking forward to trying some different beans/roasts.

TANZANIA PEABERRY - Kilimanjaro
PAPUA NEW GUINEA - Kimel A (estate)
SUMATRA MANDHELING
Uganda Bugisu

A nice selection.
The profile suggested above [with the two periods of lower heat] will work very well with the two E. African coffees on your list. OTOH, I wouldn't be inclined to stretch the drying phase on Sumatra. Expect it to have a soft sounding First Crack and a color that is lighter than most other coffees.

The PNG. Ah, the PNG. It can be so delicate and nuanced. ThumbsUp
I'd save that one for a bit and practice on the others. Then I'd try various profiles on it. PNG can be very rewarding for the patient roaster.
Edited by David on 11/24/2009 12:57 AM
 
David
somegeek wrote: Did my first roast with the lid/HG holder in place today(3rd roast for me). This lid was the ticket to getting the heat regulated and a more consistent roast. :)

Back on topic:

That lid will also allow a larger paddle size. There is no harm in having the beans flying around once you have the lid in place. By the same token, if the beans don't move enough, the larger batches will tend to roast unevenly.

One lesson I learned modifying stirring rods was that if the stirrer does not get the very, very bottom layer moving, those beans will not get up to the top to get their share of heat coming down from the heatgun. I eventually ended up with a stirring arm that has about 1/2" width and was bent/twisted back like a propeller and almost touched the bottom of the pan. This gave the vertical agitation needed to get an very even roast with batches over one pound.
 
somegeek
Thanks, David - noted. :)
 
scarter11
I found a Regal Bread Maker @ one of our Good Will thrift stores, and I can say that it is very simple to re-wire. The heating element, motor, and all sensors go back to labeled computer style plugs on the main logic board. Both positive and negative wires for the capacitor are fed directly from the motor, so no need to worry about that. By the color of the wires, I easily wired the motor and heater in parallel to the main ac, with a switch on the heater.

It doesn't get quite hot enough with the internal heater alone, so I plan on adding a 500 Watt Halogen lid for quiet operation. Would I be able to use a standard 500 Watt dimmer on the Halogen bulb?
 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
seedlings
scarter11 wrote:
I found a Regal Bread Maker @ one of our Good Will thrift stores, and I can say that it is very simple to re-wire. The heating element, motor, and all sensors go back to labeled computer style plugs on the main logic board. Both positive and negative wires for the capacitor are fed directly from the motor, so no need to worry about that. By the color of the wires, I easily wired the motor and heater in parallel to the main ac, with a switch on the heater.

It doesn't get quite hot enough with the internal heater alone, so I plan on adding a 500 Watt Halogen lid for quiet operation. Would I be able to use a standard 500 Watt dimmer on the Halogen bulb?


Yes, but you might want a little beefier dimmer for safety factor.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
scarter11
Actually, the dimmer I currently have is rated at 600 watts.

I may go with a router speed control since the work light requires a 3 prong connection. That will keep me from needing to modify the work light.
 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
seedlings
scarter11 wrote:
Actually, the dimmer I currently have is rated at 600 watts.

I may go with a router speed control since the work light requires a 3 prong connection. That will keep me from needing to modify the work light.


That's a 20% safety factor, so the dimmer would be good-to-go. The ground on your halogen only goes to the metal lamp housing, so if you're going to remove the halogen element and relocate it, you don't need to worry about the ground.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
scarter11
Well, I tried out the Halogen / BM setup last night. I think it went rather well. I didn't try wiring a dimmer on the work lamp. Just used it as the cover unmodded. I'm not sure about the amount of beans I used; it was the last of some Sumatra Mendheling from SM. Probably about a cup and a half.

I started by preheating the unit. Currently, I am just using a oven thermometer that is inserted into the side of the BM, and the tip is just above the stirring arm. For this small amount of beans, it was just measuring air temp. So, I preheated the unit to 300F in about 4 minutes. Poured in the beans and reset my timer. First crack started around the 8 minute mark, but I don't recall the temperature. From time to time throughout the roast, I would just lift the work lamp with it's handle to check on the color of the beans. First crack was easily heard over the stirring noise, but 2nd was not. When the temp reach 500f, I started periodically turning off the BM and listening for 2nd crack. It started at 11:30. Of course I wasn't prepaired to get the beans in my cooling tray, so it went well into 2nd before I got the beans cooled.

We'll see how things go when I get more beans in and can test with a large load.

I'll post some pics when I get off work this evening.

 
www.trefratellicoffee.com
seedlings
Yes! Post pictures, and why not start your own thread? Nice job.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
mainestratman
This is the exact motor I have in my old bread machine.. already scoured the local thrifties, but found nothing else, so I'm stuck with this one.

Are there no other suggestions as how to mod this thing?


Thanks!

brodystylez wrote:
Also, here is a picture of the motor's labeling. I know there is a way to make it work, I just don't understand how right now. Thanks again.

i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/bengblac/005.jpg
 
http://coffeemorsels.blogspot.com/
seedlings
There will also be a capacitor in the circuit, and you'll need that. Can you find it?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
mainestratman
Hi Chad,

Thanks for jumping in and willing to help. I pulled the circuit board and started tracing everything and *think* I found all the components that switch the AC to DC, then while deciding exactly how I was going to do it, I got an email from a friend who just gave his wife a new bread maker and asked if I wanted his old one (everyone knows I roast).

I said "yes", sight unseen, ran over, got it, and it's one of those Welbilt R2D2-looking ones (the ABM-100-4 or whatever).

120VAC motor. Score. But it has one of those messed up pans with the big hole in it and I've been planning on using a corn steamer as my roasting pan.. the bottom pot gets screwed to the BM, the perforated pot gets the fitting on the bottom that BM pots have.

So after a few hours of excruciating metalwork, I managed to cannibalize some parts from the Oster (the one with the DC motor) to make all the fittings and whatnot fit onto the Welbilt. It's not beautiful, but gol-dangit, it works.

I need to make up some vanes for the swirlygig, but it was pushing around 2# of beans with zero strain on the motor.

Once my TO comes in, I'll be roasting bigtime. Until then, time to dust off the HG.

Cheers!

Jon


PS. I'd post pix, but didn't take any while I was redesigning the mount.. After class I'll see about taking some and uploading them in a different thread.. And yeah.. I REALLY want to paint this thing to look like everyone's favorite little droid... ;-)
 
http://coffeemorsels.blogspot.com/
seedlings
Right on!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
mainestratman
Chad... new post as promised: http://homeroaste...ad_id=2106
Edited by mainestratman on 01/28/2011 5:02 AM
 
http://coffeemorsels.blogspot.com/
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