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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
bvwelch
Yes, that is a transformer. I must admit that in the half-dozen or so breadmachines that I've modified, I've never seen a setup like yours. My machines have all looked pretty much like David's, and the small transformer was just to supply a low voltage to the circuit board, and I disabled all of that for my machines.

By the way, the problem with the photos was on my end-- I was experimenting with OpenDNS and had 'photobucket' blocked. Sorry about that. -bill
 
brodystylez
Thanks for the replies. I feel like I am at least making progress and learning valuable life skills in the process. I think part of the photo issue was that I hadn't adjusted the pixel count in my first two images. Anyhow, the first machine that I destroyed had a small black rectangular box that was clearly the capacitor in question, while this one is a little more mystifying. The only other electronic components are part of the circuit board. There are two black boxes on it, one labeled for the heating elements and one for the motor, but I am not sure if it is the component that I need. The other motor had a small, black, rectangular piece in a similar position in the 'river' as where the transformer from my previous post was, and there was no doubt that it was the correct component, but I cut the wires too close and was unable to salvage it. It was in the exact same position this transformer, only this one (from my last post) had a ground and an additional brown wire, but it is of little importance at this point.

Here is a picture of the circuit board.

i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/bengblac/003.jpg

And here is a picture of what the only component that fits into the small, black, and rectangular category, and has a label relating to the motor, however I do not suspect that it is what I need, but if experience has taught me anything it is that my assumptions are incorrect.

i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/bengblac/004.jpg

I should note that I used a transformer (from speakes or a cell phone charger, I forget) on my other motor, which enables it to function, but the voltage/amperage was incorrect and it stops with the slightest resistance(mechanical). I think if I could find one with the correct volts/amps, it would solve my problems, but I've had no luck so far. Once again I appreciate your help and hope to not have to manually stir my roasts anymore, it is really quite a pain.
 
brodystylez
Also, here is a picture of the motor's labeling. I know there is a way to make it work, I just don't understand how right now. Thanks again.

i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/bengblac/005.jpg
 
bvwelch
Your latest 'black object' looks like a Relay.

However, If this breadmachine has a 'dough' cycle, it make work fine without any mods. Have you tried it?

Getting back to the motor-- a little google-ing of part number BOM-ZDM-25 does indeed seem to indicate this is a DC motor operating at 110 to 230 volts DC... I think it is theoretically possible to bypass most of the controls and 'hot wire' the motor to the DC supply, but I am concerned for your safety -- these are lethal voltages and currents!

I really think the best idea might be to try again -- this time look for a really really old breadmaker -- choose a heavy one, and hope it has an AC motor like David's example. -bill
 
brodystylez
Thanks for your help! I fear that the time for using the stock setup has come and gone, but I am a regular at the local thrift shops and buy any and all bread machines that I come across. I have some spare motors that function properly and may give one of them a go. Thanks again.
 
somegeek
Joined this forum just to say thanks for posting these diagrams. They got me going in the right direction. My machine conversion is nearly done. :)

somegeek
somegeek attached the following image:
somegeek_coffee_roasting_small.jpg

Edited by somegeek on 11/16/2009 6:53 PM
 
David
somegeek wrote: Joined this forum just to say thanks for posting these diagrams. They got me going in the right direction. My machine conversion is nearly done. :) somegeek

That machine is gorgeous (as bread machines go). Good pick! ThumbsUp

I especially like the fact that the motor is below the deck.
That will give you a lot of flexibility is designing the roasting vessel.

Please keep us posted on your progress.
 
seedlings
Ditto, great work!

I notice that on my breadmakers the belt between the motor pulley and the stirrer pulley get's a little elongated from the heat. If breadmakers weren't so cheap, or if I were getting fancy, like you have, I'd buy a better belt or allow for cooling underneath.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 11/17/2009 2:29 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
somegeek
How many watts do these motors draw when moving the coffee beans around? Half way pondering installing a dimmer so smaller batches don't get tossed out... though my test run tonight was only using 6 ounces of roasted beans. Imagine when I get a full 1lb 3oz in there the agitator will have less oomph and won't kick out so many beans?

I had to reduce the size of my agitator(think that is what it's called?) to a short length of 3/16" music wire(seemed like my original was a boat paddle). :P
Edited by somegeek on 11/17/2009 8:13 PM
 
bvwelch
seedlings wrote:
I notice that on my breadmakers the belt between the motor pulley and the stirrer pulley get's a little elongated from the heat. If breadmakers weren't so cheap, or if I were getting fancy, like you have, I'd buy a better belt or allow for cooling underneath.CHAD


I used to have a related problem-- the thermal fuse on the motor itself would shut-down in mid-roast, when doing back-to-back roasts in very warm weather. My quick and dirty solution was to increase the height of the rubber feet, such that I have extra clearance below the machine. On really hot days I blow a fan underneath. Works great! -bill
 
seedlings
somegeek wrote:
How many watts do these motors draw when moving the coffee beans around? Half way pondering installing a dimmer so smaller batches don't get tossed out... though my test run tonight was only using 6 ounces of roasted beans. Imagine when I get a full 1lb 3oz in there the agitator will have less oomph and won't kick out so many beans?

I had to reduce the size of my agitator(think that is what it's called?) to a short length of 3/16" music wire(seemed like my original was a boat paddle). :P


The breadmaker motors I've seen require a capacitor, so you won't be able to "dim" them, you'd have to get a variable frequency drive.

1 pound is my minimum batch to prevent bean tossing.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 11/18/2009 1:20 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch
seedlings wrote:
The breadmaker motors I've seen require a capacitor, so you won't be able to "dim" them, you'd have to get a variable frequency drive.
CHAD


Or 'pulse them' on and off, like the original 'dough cycle' mode of the breadmaker. -bill
 
JohnIII
I agree speed control would be nice in a bread machine. Though they are happier with 1/2 lb. and larger loads, I started out roasting 1/4 lb. regularly. Found I had to grind down the paddle a few times, but finally got it to the point I could manage the small loads without slinging beans. The final shape I wound up with is probably 75-80% of the original paddle area. These days, my roast loads are larger, ranging from 1/2 to 1-1/4 lb., and the smaller paddle still works fine.
John
 
somegeek
Thanks for the replies. I roasted a pound today and bean tossing was not an issue. I think with 12oz though, a few beans would be tossed. The small piece of music wire did the trick. I may file off more of the paddle or remove it all together and drill a hole in the middle of the paddle and stick in a piece of music wire. We'll see.
somegeek attached the following image:
somegeek_coffee_roasting_8.jpg

Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 2:52 PM
 
somegeek
My first roast result. Looking forward to grinding up a cup of this in the am. The scoop is full of Pete's Costa Rican for color reference(our current favorite). Hopefully my home roasting results can, in time, de-throne the Pete's CR. :)
somegeek attached the following image:
somegeek_coffee_roasting_.jpg

Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 2:54 PM
 
John Despres
That looks like a very nice full city + roast there while the Peet's looks to be Vienna.

I suggest you taste your roast over several days and note the changes in flavor as it rests.

I think you'll give up on the commercial roasts very soon.

What breed of coffee did you roast?

John
Edited by John Despres on 11/18/2009 3:15 PM
Respect the bean.
John Despres
Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers.
 
www.sceneitallproductions.com
seedlings
How about a picture of the entire roaster? Pretty please?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
somegeek
John - thanks for the kind words and info. This is from a 4 x 1lb sampler pack from Sweet Maria's. This partiular pound is the Columbian Microlot Mix. I have to admit I was a bit anxious letting the roast go on but kept staring at the Peet's 'reference bean' I brought out with me to the garage to note my progress. :P

Here are pics from my conversion build...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_1.jpg

I picked up the bread machine from Goodwill for $13 and the measuring bowl and pot for $7.

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_2.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_3.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_4.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_5.jpg

The right switch controls the motor power while the left switch controls the outlet power...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_6.jpg

I needed something to take up the space between the containers to lock in the air to insulate a bit so some foil did the trick...

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_7.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_8.jpg

somegeek.home.comcast.net/somegeek_coffee_roasting_10.jpg

I still need to build a bracket for the heat gun and maybe a partial cover for the bowl. I also need to add some bicycle inner tube pieces under the mixing bowl to quiet the chatter as well as to secure said bowl to the machine base with a few screws. That will about do it I think for the conversion. :)
Edited by somegeek on 11/18/2009 4:27 PM
 
Koffee Kosmo
Nice progress SG
Have you considered a Turbo Oven as a heat source see this build

http://forum.home...rowstart=0

KK
Edited by Koffee Kosmo on 11/18/2009 6:08 PM
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
somegeek
Koffee Kosmo wrote:
Nice progress SG
Have you considered a Turbo Oven as a heat source see this build

http://forum.home...rowstart=0

KK


I'd seen those but not considered it. Will see how my technique works with a heat gun for now. :)
 
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