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06/12/2019 3:57 PM
Just waiting on my TC4 shipment then it's roasting time

06/03/2019 11:37 AM
I rarely purchase roasted coffee. I just ordered 4 bags from Mountain Air Roaster.

05/30/2019 12:34 PM
Hi, I use a wok with a glass lid for roasting. shaking the wok is a good exercise, actually.

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Kenya Nyeri Katogoto

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Modifying a Bread Machine 2 - Re-Wiring
CoryZ - Thank you a bunch!! I got it working! While waiting on this thread, I grabbed another $5 bread machine from Goodwill. Now I have 2 different machines working! I'll post more below.
Here are the 2 machines wired up
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131025_13_07_30_pro.jpg wp_20131025_13_07_38_pro.jpg
The second machine was much like David's first wiring picture. I decided to make the machines look 'somewhat' decent, so I started to spray them. I used high heat 1200F paint. One is black and the other, silver.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131025_22_39_10_pro.jpg wp_20131024_17_04_22_pro.jpg wp_20131024_16_47_29_pro.jpg
For the heater, I bought one from Harbor Freight (the black one) and a Wagner from Lowes ($25).

I like the Wagner because it is small (and also it holds well on the metal lift on the pan) but the Harbor Freight one was cheaper ($12) and heats the beans better.

Both are 1500W.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131027_20_03_35_pro.jpg wp_20131026_15_50_15_pro.jpg wp_20131026_10_50_11_pro.jpg
I tried both and the beans turned out fine, but did not agitate enough to be even.

I found a random metal piece from the very first bread maker I found (but did not have a capacitor, so I kept it just in case for parts) and cut it in half.

Then I used epoxy weld to hold it on to the paddles.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131027_17_28_44_pro.jpg wp_20131027_15_21_22_pro.jpg wp_20131026_16_41_54_pro.jpg
Now the beans are WELL agitated. I made the additional metal piece a bit lower so it moved beans that got trapped under the original paddle.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131027_19_57_04_pro.jpg wp_20131027_19_56_43_pro.jpg wp_20131027_10_41_17_pro.jpg
For cooling, I found a neat fan in Goodwill that sits on the floor and shoots air upward. Lucky for me, it fits just fine in the metal body of the very first machine that I couldn't use.

Also, I found a colander that's square and sits well right on top!
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131027_15_21_07_pro.jpg wp_20131027_15_20_55_pro.jpg wp_20131027_15_20_24_pro.jpg wp_20131026_16_16_14_pro.jpg
Here's a pic of the finished black machine. Also I cut out the side and placed the switch in it. Glued it down with the epoxy weld.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131026_21_08_14_pro.jpg wp_20131026_21_08_03_pro.jpg wp_20131026_21_07_51_pro.jpg
Here's the second machine. I cut out the electronic reader area and fit the switch there. Again, glued it in.
southern_roast attached the following images:
wp_20131026_10_49_46_pro.jpg wp_20131026_10_49_07_pro.jpg
I added spray paint to all 3 (although NOT the best paint job as it was a bit rushed).
southern_roast attached the following image:
As you can see the difference... the lighter pic is the first time with original paddles and Wagner heat gun.

The second 2 pics are with the modified paddles and Harbor Freight heat gun.

Both are around 12 minutes of roasting.

Thank you all for the wonderful posts previously as it helped a great deal. I wanted to return the favor by posting these. And special thanks to CoryZ for the quick response!
southern_roast attached the following images:
first_roast_1.jpg final_roast_2.jpg final_roast_1.jpg
Been nearly five years now and this is still going strong. Only change I've made was to replace the foil gasket between the pots with 1" fiberglass braided fireplace gasket...
Hey Mr. David, I require your assistance! My intuition tells me to cut the blue and white wires at the plug (labeled motor) and splice those together, but I wanted to be absolutely sure before I do! Here are some pictures so I could get your advice, if you're willing, of course! Thanks!
Here is what is going on in your machine as close as I can tell.

The Blue and the White wires at the bottom of your picture are
the ones that will go to the wall plug. An On-Off switch can go
in the White wire somewhere. I put annotations onto your picture.
The basic circuit is White In and Blue Out.

I also brought over a copy of the first diagram in this thread and
put in the colors for your machine.

Basically the White wire is the AC IN and the Red wire splits off
from it, making it the AC IN to the Starting Capacitor.
The Blue Wires join to form a common AC OUT.

The juice will flow in through the White wire and then to the Red
wire while the motor is at rest. The juice stored up in the Starting
Capacitor helps get the motor spinning.
A centrifugal switch in the motor immediately disconnects the Red
wire as soon as the motor starts to spin. No more starting circuit.
Then it's just the White In through the moitor to the Blue Out as
long as the motor is spinning.

I hope that is enough to get your machine up and going.
David attached the following images:
bm06.jpg figure02.jpg
David, you are the best; a veritable master of wiring! Allen and lawnmowerman got me sorted out a day or two ago so I actually got it done last night, but looking back it really is as simple as your diagram(s). Allen told me to put the switch between the blue and hot wires, so that's what I did...seems to work ok and I hope that's alright!

For some reason I keep forgetting that it's just basically the two wires from the plug and the two wires coming out of the motor that are spliced together. It's probably since each breadmaker is slightly different and have sooo much extra (unnecessary) stuff.

I think I'll probably always ask, though, just so I dont burn down my apartment or anything! Grin Thanks a ton!

Edit: if I should move this to my own thread please let me know!
You got two different answers and both work.

There is an actual difference, however, in terms of the safety of
the machine and its shock hazard.

The chassis is part of the circuit, hopefully, the "grounded" side.
But there is no ground wire, no third wire, to insure safety.

If you have a neon light tester you can connect one probe to a known
ground (e.g, a water pipe) and then touch the other to the case, at
an unpainted place if possible. If it glows, then there is voltage on
the chassis of the machine. This can give you a tingle if you are grounded.

The other way of wiring will not.

Part of this equation is whether you connect the white wire
(in your case) to the small or large prong of the wall plug.

IOW, if you want to test this, and I think you should, use the neon light tester on your wall socket and see which opening (large or small) is glowing relative to a known ground. Then without plugging your machine into the wall. follow that "hot" lead (regardless of whether it is the large or small prong) up through your wiring.

That's the wire that should have the ON/OFF switch in it.

Place your ON/OFF switch on the "hot" side, so the chassis will not be "live." That is the safest way to do it, regardless of the colors of the wires.
Never posted on any kind of forum before but here it goes.

Hello all!

Thank you so much David! After reading your posts a few days and looking at my oster bread machine it all clicked! And the motor is spinning perfectly! I've never roasted before but will be getting my green beans on wed. I have a heat gun and thermocouple ready to go. Just wanted to show my appreciation for all the great posts here!

Sincerely, W. Waters
I've done this. I took a bread machine with an AC motor and I wired it to a toggle switch, no waiting for that kneading time!

How I wish I could have read this post. There was something wrong with the wiring of my old bread machine, but I had no idea how to fix it, so I bought a new machine later. What a pity!
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