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Homeroasters.org » BUILDING A ROASTER » Drum Roasters
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Dereks 1-2Kg drum roaster build
btreichel
Lylabrown wrote:

I recommend swapping out the socket-cap screws that attach the vanes to the drum with button or round headed ones instead. The reason being that the beans have the uncanny ability to wedge themselves in any bean-width gap and stay there!


Good catch!
 
dmccallum
Lylabrown wrote:
Based on bad experiences I’ve had building various drum/vane configurations I recommend swapping out the socket-cap screws that attach the vanes to the drum with button or round headed ones instead. The reason being that the beans have the uncanny ability to wedge themselves in any bean-width gap and stay there until the next roast, or multiple roasts, before eventually freeing themselves and finding there way into the cup. Resulting in a bitter, nasty cup of joe!


Very good catch. Thx, I'll address that.

I turned my attention to the cabinet frames and how I was going to fix the skin. Came up with some brackets which I've welded up. They have 3mm sections in them so as to provide something to tap a thread. Had to rework the frame ribs to accommodate this.

i.imgur.com/pMnPs2D.jpg

i.imgur.com/UoDaI6V.jpg

i.imgur.com/S9cgR16.jpg

Was a bit cumbersome but have also put the inner chamber skin together. I might have to revisit this. It's made from 0.9mm stainless which difficult to TIG and I am not sure how it will stand up once running. Stainless warps when subject to heat so we'll see.
I've already adjusted the front and rear supports to 1.5mm and I may consider splitting the main skin into two parts that can be bolted together. The total length of the single piece is awkward to ship from the cutting shop.
Also I don't think the assy needs to be welded together - extra tabs that you can fold over will suffice and make it easier to put together.

i.imgur.com/1472yNl.jpg

i.imgur.com/8bvEILI.jpg
 
dmccallum
Got round to finishing the inner skin and mounted in the frame.

i.imgur.com/jt746Co.jpg

i.imgur.com/3SB1pGt.jpg

The rear plate hole for the drive shaft doesn't allow too much clearance so I've mounted a length of 5mm threaded rod which extends into a 5mm well I drilled into the rear plate. This should hold the assy in place in the event of any movement due to heat expansion/warping.

i.imgur.com/DoIUSKJ.jpg

i.imgur.com/5hC4kc6.jpg

i.imgur.com/ObZ74r4.jpg

The assy fits flush between the end and front plates exactly and clamps it up when they're bolted on.

i.imgur.com/B9Z743i.jpg

i.imgur.com/5Ymbday.jpg

i.imgur.com/FU5G419.jpg

Managed to form the cabinet skin by hand using just my argon cylinder and a length of wooden round I had which was about the right size.

i.imgur.com/4IGIDsE.jpg

i.imgur.com/5KVxjM1.jpg

i.imgur.com/QSdEEHT.jpg

Starting to look like a roaster..
 
JackH
It is looking great! You have put a lot of work into it over the past few years.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
BobbyS
looking really great!
 
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renatoa
Now... stand up and walk ! er... roast Grin
 
broeker
Looking good :-)
 
dmccallum
Inching ever forward.. My draw tube and damper-baffle assy has come together. The handle is a re-purposed Faema e61 grouphead brew lever.

i.imgur.com/65SWh5I.jpg

i.imgur.com/s9jImr4.jpg

i.imgur.com/7pfoBKt.jpg

i.imgur.com/AgCRfFc.jpg

i.imgur.com/Ed3uWsl.jpg
 
dmccallum
And tigged the cyclone bottom plate in place to support cooling draw tube assy..

i.imgur.com/Wtc2TGN.jpg

i.imgur.com/4ILMHOX.jpg

i.imgur.com/xvjEEz0.jpg
 
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