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snwcmpr
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· 01/26/2020 3:25 PM
Cool. Then we can get back to having FUN here. roar

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· 01/22/2020 5:40 AM
morning Updated shoutbox. Work in progress.

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· 01/17/2020 5:50 AM
Looking for a good coffee shop in Maumee, Ohio. Any recommendations?

snwcmpr
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· 01/10/2020 10:18 AM
Maybe post in the Behmor section. Behmor users can see it. The SHOUTBOX post will be hidden in a few days.

jqaman
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· 01/09/2020 8:51 AM
The flap on the back of my Behmor 1600 has come loose at one end. Its 15 years old. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how to fix it? thanks...john

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Time for the SF-1 electric roaster's next step.
turtle
I have been using my rebuilt 240 VAC SF-1 for long enough as a manual roaster to feel comfortable to make the next step (automated control) and I would like to once again thank all who helped me out on this ground up rebuild from the folks at CoffeePER to the HRO members.... Thank you.

I have been using the SF-1 with a TMD-56 meter, USB connected to a laptop running Artisan software reading the 2 probes on the roaster and passing them to the lappy.

I've been controlling the burners with an Aubins beer wort boiler controller which has worked very well but it is all manual roasting.

I would like to replace the TMD-56 with the TC4C+LCD that Jim built for me a few years ago.

Is it possible to run the 2 SSRs directly with the TC4C+LCD from Artisan (or another roasting software)?

OR

Does the TC4C need to run the wort boiler controller?

I' will admit that I am not up to speed on electronic controllers so this is a mystery to me.

Looking for all the input I can gather to get started.

This is the current setup with the meter, lappy, and roaster.

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/9-9-2015_roast_zps1v9dcch6.jpg
Edited by ginny on 09/10/2015 6:31 PM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
turtle
I don't have a lot of room to work with.

Boiler controller is in an aluminum project box that has conduit to the SSR area where two 25 amp SSRs are attached to the large heat sink

Specs on the 25 amp SSRs

http://www.auberins.com/SSR%20Series-...s-RS1A.pdf

I can't find the specs on the TC4C but there is enough room (almost) to mount it in another project box

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/9-10-2015_controller_space_zpsbm8gzedk.jpg
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
I think you will be fine running two zero cross SSRs connected directly to the TC4 and controlled by Artisan.

I'm not familiar with your roaster. What are you switching with the two SSRs?
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

I think you will be fine running two zero cross SSRs connected directly to the TC4 and controlled by Artisan.

I'm not familiar with your roaster. What are you switching with the two SSRs?


running two 1000 degree F 1740 watt 120VAC electric elements with a 25A SSR driving each. Roaster is hooked to 240 vac 30A and split internally for each of the heaters which are 120 vac

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/restoration/heaters_zpsw3dugtyf.gif

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/restoration/burners2_zpsc0f1b6a3.jpg

Here is the thread regarding the restore/rebuild

http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/v...rowstart=0

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/restoration/3-28-2015_fire_zpsikbeaze5.jpg

Burners and drum without the drum cover on

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/restoration/3-21-2015_done2_zpshdvyf1iz.jpg

SSR wiring

i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/food/coffee/San_Franciscan/restoration/3-21-2015_done4_zpsldfwt8ui.jpg
Edited by turtle on 09/10/2015 10:40 PM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
Maybe just connect both SSRs to the OT1 output on the TC4?
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

Maybe just connect both SSRs to the OT1 output on the TC4?


Do you know what the output for the OT1 pins are?

The SSRs run with 4-32 vdc input

http://www.auberins.com/SSR%20Series-...s-RS1A.pdf

I can't seem to locate anything on the TC4C voltage out for heat
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
Have a look at the circuit diagram here.

http://www.mlgp-llc.com/arduino/publi...30-sch.pdf

The SSR parts of the diagram is down the bottom left corner. One pin is a 5V pin and the other pin goes through a transistor to ground and can take 100mA maximum according to the note on the diagram.
 
greencardigan
Actually the TC4C scehamtic shows a max current of 200mA throgh the OT1 switching transistor.

http://www.mlgp-llc.com/arduino/publi...33-sch.pdf
 
turtle
I've found this hook up diagram. Looks like the TC4C should directly control a SSR. what is throwing me is the external ZCD in the diagram? Not sure why I would need one?

www.mlgp-llc.com/arduino/public/tc4-wiring-small-20111120.jpg
Edited by turtle on 09/11/2015 8:16 AM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
The zero cross detector is used when controlling an AC motor using phase angle control with a random fire SSR. The TC4 uses the ZCD input to work out when to switch the AC fan power.

If you're not controlling a blower or something using phase angle control, you don't need the ZCD.
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

The zero cross detector is used when controlling an AC motor using phase angle control with a random fire SSR. The TC4 uses the ZCD input to work out when to switch the AC fan power.

If you're not controlling a blower or something using phase angle control, you don't need the ZCD.


I'm not sure I should put the blower motor on another SSR.

Now the blower runs constantly (power on = blower on) and I control the roast chamber air draw with the damper (open/closed). This has worked well so far.

I have a VERY early SF-1. No one at CoffeePER has even seen this model (240 VAC electric) as it pre-dates any of the current people with the company.

They were not sure but they thought that maybe 4 were by the founder of the company as special requests when he started making roasters. This is the only one that they know of that exists "in the wild".

They have no records of these 240 VAC models in their records.

.
Edited by turtle on 09/11/2015 10:25 AM
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
There's something else I thought of last night. The TC4C uses by default a 1 second period for the outputs. So at 50% power, the heaters will be on full for half a second then off for half a second. If your heaters can survive that then you should be fine. I'm not sure how you current controller runs the heaters.
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

There's something else I thought of last night. The TC4C uses by default a 1 second period for the outputs. So at 50% power, the heaters will be on full for half a second then off for half a second. If your heaters can survive that then you should be fine. I'm not sure how you current controller runs the heaters.


This is what they say about the controller I am now using. I have it set to burst firing mode.

"burst firing mode is preferred for resistive loads, which can provide a uniform power output to the heater and can extend the life time of the heater. The firing signal is a series of short pulses distributed over one hundred AC line cycles. The duration of each pulse equals to one AC line cycle (16.67 milliseconds for 60Hz or 20 milliseconds for 50 Hz, automatically detected by the regulator). The burst rate will between 1 and 100 pulses for each 100 AC cycles. The pulse width equals to one AC cycle. It is automatically adjusted for 50 or 60 Hz."

.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
The TC4 can also do a pulsed type control when it has one of the alternative branches of the code loaded onto it. It uses ICC control but I suspect this requires the ZCD circuitry connected. This is what I use with my air roaster.
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

The TC4 can also do a pulsed type control when it has one of the alternative branches of the code loaded onto it. It uses ICC control but I suspect this requires the ZCD circuitry connected. This is what I use with my air roaster.


Do you have a URL where this code can be downloaded?

Is it an alternate artisan sketch?
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan
There's a download link in the aArtisanQ_PID thread here.

http://homeroasters.org/php/forum/vie...post_55772

Yes it's a variation of the aArtisan code.
 
turtle

Quote

greencardigan wrote:

There's a download link in the aArtisanQ_PID thread here.

http://homeroasters.org/php/forum/vie...post_55772

Yes it's a variation of the aArtisan code.


Loading this sketch into TC4C will require a zero cross detector circuit to function as outlined in the drawing I attached in post #9, correct?

Would this replace the wort boiler controller or "could" the tc4c be added so that I would have auto and manual controls?

I do not want to mod if I am roped into always using a laptop to roast with (i.e. remove all manual controls).
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
ginny

Quote

I do not want to mod if I am roped into always using a laptop to roast with (i.e. remove all manual controls).



did you mention this in your initial post? it helps...


ginny


beach
 
turtle

Quote

ginny wrote:

Quote

I do not want to mod if I am roped into always using a laptop to roast with (i.e. remove all manual controls).



did you mention this in your initial post? it helps...


ginny


beach


Sort of.....

Quote

turtle wrote:


Does the TC4C need to run the wort boiler controller?



Can you help?

.
Mick - "Drinking in life one cup at a time"
"I'd rather be roasting coffee"

Roaster 1: San Franciscan SF-1
Roaster 2: Hottop B-2K+
Roaster 3: Behmor 1600 +
Grinders: Modified Super Jolly - Forte BG (x3)
Pour over: Hario - Bee House - Chemex - Kalita - Bodum
Drip: Bunn CWTF15-1 & CW15-TC (commercials)
Espresso: Pasquini Livia 90 auto
Vacuum: Cona - Bodum
Press: Frieling - Bodum Colombia
 
greencardigan

Quote

turtle wrote:

Loading this sketch into TC4C will require a zero cross detector circuit to function as outlined in the drawing I attached in post #9, correct?


Yes I believe a ZCD circuit is required for both the ICC control of OT1 and phase control of OT2.

Quote

turtle wrote:

Would this replace the wort boiler controller or "could" the tc4c be added so that I would have auto and manual controls?

I do not want to mod if I am roped into always using a laptop to roast with (i.e. remove all manual controls).


The aAtrisanQ_PID sketch includes the code needed to read the two potentiometers (pots) connected to the TC4C as shown in the drawing in post 9. That allows for OT1 and OT2 being controlled without a laptop.

I have my air roaster set up like the diagram attached. I use aArtisanQ_PID and can run it with Artisan software control or standalone without a laptop.
 
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