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CharcoalRoaster
11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

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11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

allenb
11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

Funopt
10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

snwcmpr
10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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Really long roasting times
rbisch
Hello all, so I recently built a custom drum roaster and it has some odd roasting times. It has a 5lb capacity and I was roasting 2lb of beans in it. The environment temperature was about 550F but it still took 20 minutes to first crack and just about 30 minutes to second. The coffee is great, but I was just wondering if I should increase the temp even more to try to get second crack under 20 minutes? That seems like it's already pretty hot.
 
threwitallaway
@rbisch, Really hard to say what's going on in the drum and I certainly am no expert, but first thing is maybe check your thermoprobe for accuracy; 550F environment temp should produce 1C much sooner than 20 minutes. and definitely 2C sooner than 30 min. A few questions that arise are: What is your drum rotation speed? Are you gas or electric? Do you monitor your Rate of Rise (RoR) temp(s)?

Also, Can you post some pics of your roaster so the forum can get a better idea of where the problem might exist? More info is needed for those on the forum to assist.

-nate
Edited by threwitallaway on 03/08/2015 7:48 AM
__________________________________________
Hottop B-2K w barryR thermocouple mod, Mazzer Mini /Super Jolly burrs, Salvatore E-61 group machine, Aeropress, French press.
 
rbisch
Yea I'm pretty sure the temp is accurate. I have a K-type thermocouple and tried both a probe and a wire and they gave the same value. My drum speed isn't very known because it's manually operated, but I was trying to do about 60rpm although I might have been going slightly faster. It is a propane pipe burner. Unfortunately I don't have a been temperature probe so I can't really monitor the RoR. If I just lowered my drum speed significantly would it speed up the development time significantly, without causing an uneven roast?

Here are some pics: http://imgur.com/...v3,TsUj0BG

Cheers!
Edited by JackH on 03/08/2015 8:57 AM
 
ciel-007
rbisch wrote:

... but it still took 20 minutes to first crack and just about 30 minutes to second...


A good roaster should be able to bring your greens to 1C within 10 minutes, and 2C within 14 minutes, if you so desired..

Do you have a baffle sitting between the flame and the drum? If so, that might possibly impede proper heat transfer. The drum in my Bella Taiwan sits directly above the flame with no baffle. Further, if you are roasting outside, there might possibly be considerable heat loss during cold weather roasting.

Ciel
Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
 
threwitallaway
rbisch, I see from the pics you do indeed have a baffle between the flame and drum. The thing here -as ciel-007 pointed out- is to expose the drum to the flame to assist in heat transfer to the beans. The baffle keeps this from happening. Your ET is 550F but the beans do not benefit from that as much as they would direct heat.

Remove the baffle and carefully monitor the ET. Your roasts should speed up. Getting a bean mass probe in there would really help things along as well. Knowing the ET is one thing, Knowing the bean mass temp can lead to not just "roasted coffee," but really good roasts. Keep on keepin' on and you will succeed! coffee drink
__________________________________________
Hottop B-2K w barryR thermocouple mod, Mazzer Mini /Super Jolly burrs, Salvatore E-61 group machine, Aeropress, French press.
 
Ringo
I think you have an great roaster. I am guessing you are reading temp outside the drum that is not environmental that heat is not on inside the drum. most drums pull the heat through the drum to get the fire side even with inside drum. If that was my drum I would drill lots of holes in the drum to let the heat in. I would leave the baffle over the burner. Lots of perforated drums running and they do a good job. I have never done this so my guess my not be right hopefully some perforated drum folks will step in with advice.
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
 
ciel-007
Ringo wrote:

... most drums pull the heat through the drum to get the fire side even with inside drum. If that was my drum I would drill lots of holes in the drum to let the heat in...


Hankua, a member over at H-B, visited the Bella Tawain Trading Co in last year, and provided photos of the new Bella Taiwan XJ-101-S. The XJ-101-S is a step up from my current gas roaster. My Bella Taiwan XJ-101 has a "traditional", solid, cast iron drum and could be referred to as a "Half Hot Air" gas roaster.

However, the new Bella Taiwan XJ-101S features a "Direct Fire" drum, and it is similar to what Ringo is describing. Take a look at a photo of the new Bella Taiwan XJ-101-S "Direct Fire" drum.

Ciel
ciel-007 attached the following image:
drum_xj-101-s.jpg

Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
 
broeker
I'd loose the baffle :-)
 
boar_d_laze
Your roaster is set up like a large, sealed oven (sealed in the sense that it doesn't have an exhaust flue), with a rotisserie basket. The baffle won't make much difference to the "environmental" temperature once the whole system's come to heat. That's a function of roaster volume, burner power and heat loss.

You need more power and/or a much smaller enclosure. Almost certainly both. Plenty of good roasters separate direct flame from the drum with a plate. For example, Diedrich, Giesen and Probat are all "indirect heat"/IR.

Most drum roasters are more than rotisseries inside of sealed ovens. I didn't see any provision for moving air in yours. Air flow is especially important with an IR design.

Rich
Edited by boar_d_laze on 03/10/2015 4:34 AM
USRC 1lb Roaster, Chemex+Kone, Espro, Various FPs, Royal Siphon Vacuum, Yama Ice Drip Tower, Bunnzilla, La Cimbali M21 Casa, Ceado E92.
CookFoodGood
 
ciel-007
boar_d_laze wrote:

... I didn't see any provision for moving air in yours. Air flow is especially important with an IR design...


Rich raises an important point. Proper hot air circulation is critical for a good roast; there are several ways of accomplishing that.

For example, Bella Taiwan, Yang Chia, and Feima roasters offer two hot air flow options in their drum design. Namely: “Half Hot Air” and “Direct Fire” drums. See photo below:

-The "Half Hot Air" drum (left below) illustrates the design found in my Bella Taiwan XJ-101.

-The "Direct Fire" (right below) illustrates the drum design of the new Bella Taiwan XJ-101-S.

Ciel
ciel-007 attached the following image:
direct_fire_drum.jpg

Ciel... seeking Heaven in my cup with ................................................................................................................. EXPOBAR Brewtus II - MAZZER Mini E - MAHLK�NIG Vario - GeneCafe - RAF-1 Extreme (Modified B-2 HOTTOP) - BellaTaiwan XJ-101
 
ginny
must agree with all, not enough fire/heat getting to the darn beans.

you have restricted it way too much.

ginny

cool
 
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