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CharcoalRoaster
11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

snwcmpr
11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

allenb
11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

Funopt
10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

snwcmpr
10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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New TR Build
CharcoalRoaster
So I finally had some time to work on the TR (thank you Jedovaty) and here is what I've got so far. The bottom cylinder is housing the motor. As you can see in the second pic the steel kettle contains everything else. My plan is to build out a square enclosure to support everything (hopefully some e-controls in the future too!). The TR lid sits neatly on top of the kettle.

I have encountered a couple of issues though. At first, I thought instead of having agitation arms connected to the shaft of the motor I would have the whole basket rotate, which is why you will see a stationary bean pusher mounted in the basket already. I'm not opposed to turning arms instead of the basket. However, I need some help either to:

1) Attach the basket to the drive shaft of the motor.
2) Attach agitation arms to drive shaft of the motor.

In either case I will need to also find a way to empty the beans from the basket.
 
CharcoalRoaster
Pics...
CharcoalRoaster attached the following images:
image-1.png image_6.png
 
CharcoalRoaster
Would love some help you Turbo Roaster kings! tiki
 
jedovaty
Probably the easiest way is to use sockets, nuts, and threaded rod. That's what I did. Your idea of rotating the hole basket is actually pretty neat idea, but I think the issue will be if you wish to add a bean temp probe.

Make sure you are buying stainless steel hardware, not galvanized.
 
CharcoalRoaster
I'm not using stainless or galvanized but zinc plated. Issues there?

Do I drill through the drive shaft in order to use the threaded rod or ...?
 
jedovaty
Don't use zinc. Only use stainless. Chromed sockets should be okay.

I don't know what you are saying on your second question. Can you show the motor and its shaft?
 
CharcoalRoaster
Will the zinc release chemicals at the high temps? Can you explain the worry to me? Thanks!

My second question was just trying to figure out how to use threaded rod, nuts, and bolts and attach them to either the basket or the drive shaft itself?
 
jedovaty
I want to help you, but you need to help us - what's your motor connection look like? Is it a rod, a gear, some kind of pink unicorn with rainbows and glitter?

On mine, I used a windshield wiper motor, which had a nubby extending out that was threaded. All I did was screw in a coupling nut with jam nut to the motor, then a threaded rod went right into the coupling nut. Here's my thread with some pics and vids:
http://forum.home...post_31683
 
CharcoalRoaster
Ok, so the idea of moving the basket to agitate the beans instead of arms was a complete failure Shock

The centrifugal force just held the beans in place and against the walls of the basket while the entire thing spun.

Looks like I'm transitioning to some agitation arms that spin instead...
 
allenb
CharcoalRoaster wrote:

Ok, so the idea of moving the basket to agitate the beans instead of arms was a complete failure Shock

The centrifugal force just held the beans in place and against the walls of the basket while the entire thing spun.

Looks like I'm transitioning to some agitation arms that spin instead...


Looking over your attempt here reminds me of an experimental build I wanted to try years ago but never got around to.

To have a rotating perforated bowl spinning fast enough to cause the beans to hug the wall and inject high pressure hot air in sort of an "air knife" slot from the outside of the bowl through the perforated side wall. This was to cause a sideways spouting action. All you'd need is a good vacuum motor capable of some high pressure and then some sheet metal tubing pinched down to a narrow slot at the end almost touching the outer side wall of the bowl.

Just a thought if you get real ambitious and don't mind experimenting with something that might not pan out for a second time. limb

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
CharcoalRoaster
Interesting idea Allen - maybe I'm just ambitious enough to try it cross fingers

The only question I would have with a configuration like that would be how to remove the roasted beans from the basket?
 
CharcoalRoaster
So I've been thinking about this sideways fluid bed approach and wondering how to reduce the output of the VC motor to a small enough pipe to accomplish the task. I mean I can put a reduce over the outlet of the VC motor but that only reduces it to lik 3".

Allen, I'm assuming that your thought was a 1" max. outlet to the bean mass/basket? Or were you thinking larger?
 
allenb
There's a few ways it could be done. One would be to cap the 3" end of the reducer and cut a vertical slot in it anywhere from 3/16" to 1/4" wide by what ever the height is of the beans hugging the side wall of the bowl. You don't want to inject hot air outside of the band of beans for efficiency. You also want to keep the gap between slot and outside face of the bowl to a bare minimum or you will have air deflecting off the face. After looking at your bowl again, I see there are portions with no openings. This may or may not be a problem depending on the gap. It actually could be beneficial if it causes a pulsing effect.

I realize it's not possible anymore to just grab copper pipe in 3" on down to 1 1/2" diameter with reducers without taking out a loan from your credit union. If you were able, you could hammer the 1 1/2" end into a 1/4" slot. I'm only guessing as to optimum slot size. If it's too large, you won't develop enough velocity for tossing the beans out into space, too small of an area and you could have insufficient air flow for roasting the batch. One could also use multiple injection points to get optimum CFM.

An important part of this experiment will be to be spinning the bowl only as fast as needed to get the coffee on the lower portion of the side wall. Any unnecessary speed could make it impossible to lift the beans off the wall without using a regenerative blower which is a bigger and much more costly blower.

Happy experimenting! Sounds like this could be a fun project.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
allenb
CharcoalRoaster wrote:

The only question I would have with a configuration like that would be how to remove the roasted beans from the basket?


I would imagine the same technique one uses for emptying any turbo oven roaster?

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
Koffee Kosmo
The KKTO design was designed to take a few types of heat
Here is one that uses the same closed lid principle but using a heat gun
http://www.bestca...at-source/
Koffee Kosmo attached the following image:
image.jpg

I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
CharcoalRoaster
Kosmo, in that TR build (or others) what is the preferred method of bean removal post-roast?
 
JackH
The roast chamber is removable and is lifted out to dump in a cooling pan.
 
Koffee Kosmo
CharcoalRoaster wrote:

Kosmo, in that TR build (or others) what is the preferred method of bean removal post-roast?


CR
It's just the easiest method in the KISS principal

Some people use a vacuum system to transfer the beans from the roast chamber to the cooling chamber ( see photos )

You can also make the whole roaster counter lever and tip it's contents out - just make sure you add a plate to contain the chaff in the outer chamber

KK
Koffee Kosmo attached the following images:
image_1.jpg image_2.jpg

I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
CharcoalRoaster
I completely agree. However, with a rotating basket instead of rotating arms, the basket is attached to the drive shaft of the motor and not easily removed.

I was just asking to see what other options have been employed. I will look into the vacuum idea to see if it's something I want to incorporate.
 
JackH
Sorry about my earlier post. I misunderstood your question. I did manual dumping of the roast chamber at first. Now I use a vac system like KK mentioned. Here is a post about the "touchless" vac cooler:
http://forum.home...ad_id=2681

It works well for me and quickly unloads the beans.
 
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