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Propane Regulator Facts/Tips
allenb
Here's some info on propane regulators that will hopefully help with putting that gas fired roaster together. Reprinted from Tejas Smokers Inc

Pressure in a propane tank, large or small, can range between 100 and 200 psi. This propane pressure must be reduced and regulated for use in a home, motor home, camper, or an outdoor gas appliance. Typically, a residential application will require a low pressure regulator which reduces the gas pressure to 6 ounces (10.5 inches water column). Portable tanks require propane pressure regulation. Sometimes a low pressure regulator is built directly into the gas appliance and sometimes one must be installed on the portable tank itself. Check with your gas appliance manufacturer to see what propane pressure the appliance requires at the inlet on the gas appliance.

Some outdoor gas appliances, such as high heat cast iron burners, require the use of a high pressure regulator because they need more volume of gas than a low pressure regulator will deliver. A high pressure regulator will regulate the output pressure from 1 psi to as high as 60 psi. There are a number of different high pressure regulators available. Some high pressure regulators are "preset". That is, the propane pressure is fixed at, for example, 10 psi or 20 psi. Further attenuation of the gas delivered to the appliance may be done by use of an inline ball valve or needle control valve located either on the hose or built into the appliance. The other common type of high pressure regulator is an "adjustable" high pressure regulator. Adjustable high pressure regulators are available in 0-20 psi, 0-30 psi, and 0-60 psi versions and have an output pressure adjustment control built directly into the regulator. Depending on the number of btu/hr that the gas appliance(s) require, one chooses the adjustable propane gas regulator which gives the required number of btu/hr. Choose the propane regulator that is the closest match. There is no advantage of having a propane regulator with a lot more btu/hr than you actually need. As you increase the btu/hr output of a propane regulator, the degree of control that the internal propane regulator valve has over the gas output decreases; i.e., turning the valve an 1/8" in a 0-60 psi adjustable propane regulator has a lot more effect than turning the valve an 1/8" in a 0-20 psi adjustable propane regulator.



Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
eschlukebir
Hi Allen, I found this, looking for regulator info. I had my pipe hooked up to a bbq regulator, and I think it seems like I am going to want more power. I am building a 1kg gas roaster, with a single pipe burner. which would you recommend?
 
allenb
What orifice diameter did you end up with? I would incrementally increase the orifice diameter until you end up with what looks to be a decent burner output. No need to go beyond the 11" H20 of a standard BBQ reg.

Shoot us a photo of your pipe burner at full throttle so we can see flame height.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
eschlukebir
I think its a #61 and a 1" pipe. Here is a video.

https://www.faceb...151915305/
 
allenb
As I mentioned in this post of your build thread:

https://forum.hom...post_61148

You'll most likely need to drill the orifice larger to get the BTU's needed for this size roaster at 11" H2O.

Or, you may end up having the BTU's you need as is but you'd need to finish the build and give it a try to find out.

What did you settle on for a needle valve?

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
eschlukebir
whoops, you are right. i read it wrong when I went back and looked at that thread today. I did have them drill out to a 57. It may be ok. It just didn't sound or feel as potent as I thought it would, which got me wondering if my regulator was slowing things down to much.

right now I was just using their control valve they sell with the venturi.
https://tejassmok...20orifice#
 
allenb
I think you'll have enough heat from the looks of the flame size but you'll have to test it out with your roaster and a kilo of green coffee.

Some suggestions:

I would find a way to locate the needle valve near the front of the roaster or no further back than half way down the side of it to be able to reach it easily and still see the front of the roaster and view the flame through an opening in the side. This may require adding an additional needle valve to mount conveniently and leave the one on the back of the venturi but leave that one fully open.

Edit: This will also allow adding a pressure gauge after the controlling needle valve.

Also, saw off the capped end of the burner within 1/2" of the last slot and weld a flat steel plate on it. You want to allow heat to get somewhat close to the front of the drum.

Allen
Edited by allenb on 07/31/2017 18:38
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
SmokNmirz
Good info on the Variable Regulators Allen, thanks.
L-1p, HG-1-motorized, Monolith Flat, (ordered) mini500Plus.

If whatever you do does not put a smile on your face then rethink what you are doing.
 
http://mini4fun.info/Quest/Quest_M3_Mods.html
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