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CharcoalRoaster
05/14/2019 1:46 AM
I just roasted 500g of Mocha Mattari -- it's on it's third day of rest. Should be cracking into it tomorrow AM and I can't wait!

John Despres
05/12/2019 2:51 PM
Good evening! What's roasting? Yemen Mocha Mattari in my cup today.

snwcmpr
05/12/2019 5:59 AM
Hey Ed. BBQ grill

homeroaster
05/11/2019 1:47 PM
Hey, y'all! The Homeoroaster here. What's hot that I need to look at? pouring

allenb
05/11/2019 7:54 AM
Hi nano and welcome to HRO! I would post your message in HUGS which is near the end of the Discussion Forum list.

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Another TC4 Controller Enclosure
greencardigan
I've just finished putting together my second roaster controller based on the TC4. Everything is connected as per Jim's diagram here except I have two seperate power inputs so I can run my blower and heater on separate power circuits.

This one is running aArtisanQ_PID which allows phase control of a blower and heater control using integral cycle control as well as PID control using profiles saved in the TC4 EEPROM. It can log to the Artisan software or run stand-alone.

With a bit of luck I'll try it out on my air roaster tomorrow and see how the PID functions. No doubt I'll need to tweak the PID parameters a bit.

Here's a few pics
www.greencardigan.com/misc/arduino_roaster_controller/front.jpg

www.greencardigan.com/misc/arduino_roaster_controller/inside1.jpg

www.greencardigan.com/misc/arduino_roaster_controller/inside2.jpg
 
JimG
Very nice, Brad!

It looks like you've wired some "remote" buttons and LED's into the component sockets on the LCDapterC board, which is clever.

As an FYI for future projects (or for other folks), there is a pair of 4-pin headers on the LCDapterC that break out the signals needed for remote buttons and LED's. Either approach works fine, but the possible advantage to using the supplied headers is that standard 2.54 mm spaced breakaway pin headers can be soldered to the board. Perhaps this would reduce the number of custom fitted connections needed?

Again, very nice project.

Jim
 
www.pidkits.com
imaroaster
Brad thanks for posting this (as I am putting my new unit together.) Qick question: How did you mount your boards?

JimG wrote:
an FYI for future projects (or for other folks), there is a pair of 4-pin headers on the LCDapterC that break out the signals needed for remote buttons and LED's.
Jim


Jim if I wanted to have remote leds but use the on board buttons how would I do that? Also I'm not afraid to be stupid, where are the 4-pin headers on the tc4c?

-John
 
JimG
imaroaster wrote:

Jim if I wanted to have remote leds but use the on board buttons how would I do that? Also I'm not afraid to be stupid, where are the 4-pin headers on the tc4c?


Hi, John -

The 4-pin headers are located on the LCDapterC display adapter. There is a header on the left side of the buttons/LEDs, and a header on the right side. Each pin on each header is labeled.

The easiest way to use remote LED's is to solder male pin headers into the sockets on the LCDapterC and buy or make cables to to go from the pin headers to the remote LED's.

Alternatively, what Brad did (I think) was to solder wires into the holes where the LED and button components would have been mounted to the LCDapterC board.

I'm not sure I have done a good job with words describing this? Shock

Jim
 
www.pidkits.com
greencardigan
JimG wrote:
As an FYI for future projects (or for other folks), there is a pair of 4-pin headers on the LCDapterC that break out the signals needed for remote buttons and LED's. Either approach works fine, but the possible advantage to using the supplied headers is that standard 2.54 mm spaced breakaway pin headers can be soldered to the board. Perhaps this would reduce the number of custom fitted connections needed?

Jim I wasn't sure which approach would work best. If I used the 4-pin headers then I would have had to share the ground pin between all 4 buttons. I think?? I wanted to use headers so I can disconnect my buttons easily if required. Same for the LEDs. If there was a 2-pin header for each button that would have been ideal for me.

Alternatively, what Brad did (I think) was to solder wires into the holes where the LED and button components would have been mounted to the LCDapterC board

No I used 2 x 1-pin headers for each button and 2-pin headers for each LED.

A few quick questions.

Is there any reason the LCDapter cant control 4 LEDs?

I just noticed that your wiring diagram for the TC4 system shows no connection for the 5V header on the ZCD. I have mine connected to 5V on the TC4 but maybe I didn't need to??
 
greencardigan
imaroaster wrote:

Brad thanks for posting this (as I am putting my new unit together.) Qick question: How did you mount your boards?

I just used hot glue :) It makes everything easy to install and can be still snapped out if I needed to later on.

The heat sink and SSRs are screwed down though. I didn't want them breaking loose.

I haven't showed it in the photos but I have since glued some cardboard inside the enclosure physically separating the 240V parts from the low voltage parts.
 
JimG
greencardigan wrote:
Jim I wasn't sure which approach would work best. If I used the 4-pin headers then I would have had to share the ground pin between all 4 buttons. I think??

Yes, you would have to share the ground pin. I was trying to minimize the number of pins on the headers.

What I contemplated (and actually had a few built) was a small remote "strip" PCB, just large enough to solder the buttons and LED's, that would connect back to the LCDapterC via a pair of 4-wire cables. This little strip PCB can be mounted anywhere and gives you a place to mount the buttons and LED's.

greencardigan wrote:
Is there any reason the LCDapter cant control 4 LEDs?

No reason at all. PB7 (pin 8 on the IC) is available to control the 4th LED. I didn't put the 4th LED on the board because of panel layout considerations. I didn't think there was enough room, horizontally, to squeeze on a 4th 3mm LED.

greencardigan wrote:I just noticed that your wiring diagram for the TC4 system shows no connection for the 5V header on the ZCD. I have mine connected to 5V on the TC4 but maybe I didn't need to??

It is OK to make the 5V connection. Won't hurt anything.

But if you enable the internal pullup on whichever MCU pin is reading the zero cross signals then the 5V signal isn't needed. I use the internal pullup in the stuff I've done, so I only need a 2-wire cable going to the ZCD board.

Jim
 
www.pidkits.com
JackH
It looks great Brad! Good idea using hot glue, I went crazy mounting my board with standoffs. The Arduino board has very tight spacing for it's mounting holes.

My original TC4 was mounted like yours in a separate chassis with the TC4/Arduino hanging upside down. I had some problems with erratic operation and found that the TC4 had shifted and started to unseat itself from the Arduino. (My connectors may have been weak from plugging and unplugging the two.) I lightly sprayed the header pins with a cleaner called De-oxit D-5 and re-seated. No problems since.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
greencardigan
I connected the controller to my roaster for the first time yesterday. Every was working well except I found a few bugs in my PID tuning code. It wasn't accepting decimals for the tuning parameters (fixed) and I seem to be getting some integral wind-up that I might need to address.

The phase control and integral cycle control works very well though! Thanks Jim! ThumbsUp
 
greencardigan
I had a few electrical issues with this controller (http://homeroaste...post_40040) which I have since resolved.

My latest addition was a cheap bluetooth board from eBay so I can wirelessly control and log data fron my roaster. This was very easy to set up and works well. http://cgi.ebay.c...0819921179

I have also been using a version of the ArtisanQ_PID code which is compatible with both the Artisan Roasting Scope software and pBourbon.
 
greencardigan
Here's the wiring diagram for my controller.

www.greencardigan.com/misc/arduino_roaster_controller/controller_wiring_diagram.jpg
 
merkez
Can you please tell me what Bluetooth module you used and why there is a switch on the tx line. Also, if the optional resistors are removed, what is the possible disadvantage?
 
greencardigan
The bluetooth module was from ebay. See my link a few posts up.

The switch on the TX line was needed to allow the USB connection to function properly if you were using USB rather than Bluetooth.

The optional potentiometers allow you to manually control the power to the heater and fan. Otherwise you can use a separate controller or send serial commands to the TC4 from a computer.
 
greencardigan
Here's my controller in action with the bluetooth setup working with my android app.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZtI691Y6Zc[/video]
 
JimG
Brad -

That is really impressive! Nice job.

Jim
 
www.pidkits.com
allenb
Wow, + 1 on very impressive! Before seeing this I couldn't understand why the desire to be able to use one's phone for control of your roaster but now it makes sense. This allows one to have a full spectrum of control buttons without having to design into ones roaster control cabinet and also negates having to buy a more expensive LCD touch screen along with all the wiring it would entail. Very cool!

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
yamhill
Awesome work Brad.

Does the android app get feedback on the commands it sends to the roaster? Asked another way, is it a closed loop system - or a send it and forget it interface?

You're way ahead of me on this, and it's great to see your progress.

John
Quest M3, IMEX digirosto 1500, various popcorn popper roasters, with TC4 logger, Quick Mill Vetrano, PIDed Rancilio Silvia espresso, Presso, Chemex, Hario, and Melitta drip, Cory and Yama vacuum/siphon, bodum french press, aeropress; Mazzer Major, Hario mini, and PeDe Dienes grinders - and a Nuova Simonelli Aurelia rebuilder in pieces
 
greencardigan
John, most of the commands do not get any return response from the TC4. However it would be easy to code the Arduino to do that.

My Arduino code is based off the aArtisan code and the command set that the Artisan roast logging software uses.
 
Bhante
greencardigan wrote:
My latest addition was a cheap bluetooth board from eBay so I can wirelessly control and log data fron my roaster. This was very easy to set up and works well. http://cgi.ebay.c...0819921179

Hey, Brad, very nicely done! It's good to see you using this bluetooth device, I've been considering getting one like this. Is it HC05 or HC06? Master or Slave or both?

According to the ebay description it is 3.3V but on your circuit plan you show it connected to the 5V line - with a level changer in between I assume?

Can I try out your Android App? Have you made it available? The code will probably need customising to each roaster I expect.

Oops! Just noticed that your link says it is the HC06 and slave. I think the HC05 is the same but you can select either master or slave mode.

Bhante
 
greencardigan
Yes I believe it is just a slave.

I have it connected directly to the Arduino. I think it has level conversion built in to the adapter board that the Bluetooth module mounted on.

Strangely, I have another couple of similar bluetooth modules from DX that I can't get working.

Yes, you're welcome to try out my app. I'll look for it when I get a chance. The code will likely need modifying although I have includes a text input field that can send any command.
 
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