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NewBean
06/12/2019 3:57 PM
Just waiting on my TC4 shipment then it's roasting time

snwcmpr
06/03/2019 11:37 AM
I rarely purchase roasted coffee. I just ordered 4 bags from Mountain Air Roaster.

tm97
05/30/2019 12:34 PM
Hi, I use a wok with a glass lid for roasting. shaking the wok is a good exercise, actually.

NetriX
05/29/2019 9:08 PM
morning

snwcmpr
05/27/2019 1:56 AM
Kenya Nyeri Katogoto

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Modifying the Poppery 1
DavidG
An interim solution while I save up for a PID controller...

After separating the heater and the fan circuits completely, I added a power cord so that I can independently power each (lots of other posts detail how to do this). Then, I plugged the heater power into a router speed controller (at Seedlings suggestion) that I picked up at Harbor Freight for $20. With practice this is a huge improvement over manually switching on/off in rapid succession.

David
europiccola | yama + coryrod | chemex | AP | clever
wbp1 | wepp1 | bm/hg | co hybrid (still coming soon...)
 
bikerbob
I am attempting to mod and air popper. The popper I hav differs from the one in the article. I have include a sketch of my wiring; the dashed line is my propsed wiring to by bypass the thermal fuse. Can you confirm if this is correct or supply the correct wiring
thanks
bikerbob
bikerbob attached the following file:
popper.rar [23.01kB / 264 Downloads]
 
j_allen
Just finished my first mod. of the PI; increased the size of the roasting chamber, removed the thermostat and rewired the fan.

http://forum.home...ad_id=2115

Jim

*edit: added link to new thread -CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2011 5:13 AM
 
j_allen
Newbie here, i'm a Chef not an engineer.

I built a control panel for the Poppery II according to Felix Dial; works fine. Now that i have a Poppery I, can I run the fan booster through the same transformer/dimmer setup, or will there be a problem?

http://members.co...oast.shtml

PI = 1500W .84amp.
PII= 1400W .95amp

Fan control setup= 600W dimmer & 25.2V CT 2.0A heavy duty transformer.
Both machines have had heat and fan circuit split and thermostat disabled.

I'll be upgrading to a PID as soon as the boss approves.

If anyone has a spare Variac lying around, I would be interested!

Had to start roasting, our local independent roaster started charging $17.00lb.
I guess you have to pay for the Probat and Probatino!!
j_allen attached the following image:
poppery.jpg
 
pgyouth
Great post!
 
MassWineGuy
Is there anyone in the Massachusetts/New Hampshire area who can help me modify my Poppery? I've decoupled the heater from the fan so they operate separately. But I'm a total mechanical klutz otherwise.
 
MassWineGuy
Not exactly a mod, maybe, but how do you keep the Poppery tilted during a roast when the big plastic cover is nestled on top? It falls off when I do it.
 
JimH
The plastic top slows down airflow a bit and helps keep in the heat. If the goal is to increase airflow and lower temperature, lose the plastic top. As to the tilt, 15 degrees is a nice angle. I use a piece of wood, but maybe you could use one of Robert Parker's books, it will finally be good for something that way.
 
MassWineGuy
I use a piece of wood, but maybe you could use one of Robert Parker's books, it will finally be good for something that way.


I agree with you about 98 percent. Despite Parker's fostering of the numerical rating system for wines, he also conveys a tremendous amount of good background and other information about various wine regions, growerrs, etc.

What do you exactly do with the piece of wood to tilt the popper?
 
JimH
Just put it underneath one side. The side vents in the popper's roast chamber create a good circular motion, but you also need movement from top to bottom. The tilt causes the beans on the up-tilted side to rise up in the bean mass, creating a more even roast. In your case, it will also allow freer flow of air out of the roast chamber, lowering the temperature and extending the roast.
 
MassWineGuy
Thanks, Jim. I haven't yet enlarged or lengthened the size of the bean chamber. What's the best way to do this? If using a can, what do you do about the vertical ridged line of plastic in the Poppery's chamber?
 
snwcmpr
I used a Dremmel to cut a slot about 1/2" long to fit on the ridge.
That is detailed in the first page of this thread.
Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
JimH
I dremelled most of mine off, leaving about 10%, and removed 100% at the very bottom. The bottom allows the rolled edge of a can to snap in underneath so the can won't fall out when you dump the beans. Of course, now that can is a few years old and rather rusty, but it's wedged in so tightly I'm afraid to try and move it. It was a temporary solution that somehow became permanent.
 
MassWineGuy
A Dremel. Oh yeah. Wish I had one. I'll figure something out.
 
snwcmpr
MassWineGuy, I don't mean to be rude, but, did you read page 1 of this thread?
Wire cutters, tin snips, etc.

Copied here:
I have a "nibbler" that removes a "slot" of sheet metal but this is not necessary. A pair of diagonal wire cutters, sheet metal shears or even a carefully manipulated hack saw blade can be used to make a cut in the tin can. Remember – wear gloves – the cut edges are sharp - dress up the edges with emery paper or something else to dull them down after the cut.

P1 1-5

www.homeroasters....%201-5.jpg


Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
MassWineGuy
It's ok, Ken. Be a little rude. I read a lot of that article, but not all of it.
 
MassWineGuy
I tilted the Poppery and roasted two more batches of El Salvador. FIrst one, about 4 oz., first crack definitely took longer, about double. Second batch I used more beans and first crack was not as delayed. I stirred the beans for the first few minutes with both roasts and tried not to go beyond City/Full City. Maybe I'll brew some up tomorrow.
 
jlhuge
Anyone know what the ID/OD for a pyrex chamber replacement needs to be? I can't seem to find it, and don't have access to my roaster to measure it right now.

Also where do you generally go (those who have made that mod) to get it, ebay?
- Justin

West Bend Poppery I, strainer, shop-vac for cooling and chaff control.
 
jlhuge
Oh goody,
Found ginny's list of everything. That'll help sourcing the materials for modding a poppery (present for Father-in-law).

Hrm too bad it doesn't have dimensions.
BTW, am I missing it, or is there an actual list/document with the Poppery I's optional modification components?

Thanks for your help guys,
- Justin

West Bend Poppery I, strainer, shop-vac for cooling and chaff control.
 
shsesc
I didn't see any text about where to get the glass chimney and fan controller and booster. I read the whole OP, but I think I'm missing it. Also, what was the reason for cutting down the housing? Does that eliminate the bakelite roasting chamber?

Can anyone help me out?
 
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