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· 07/04/2020 10:27 AM
Happy 4th of July! jazzyhands

· 06/24/2020 7:58 AM
@Mark McCornack, Please post your question in the forum.

Mark McCornack
· 06/15/2020 9:28 PM
Hi! Looking for a legacy inlet temp sensor on 13 yr old Gene Cafe. It seems they've changed it and now you need new mother board and new sensor. Any ideas where I can find compatibile old one? Mark

· 06/09/2020 6:39 PM
Wich thermometers Can i buy for my roasting machine compatible with usb or macbook?

· 06/05/2020 5:38 PM
peveleth, It is better if you start a post in the forum with your question. These shouts go away in time.

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Poppery I thermostat mod problem - now NO HEAT

My Poppery I heat was shutting off before completing my roasts. So, I dis-assembled my PI according to Mike's page so I could "adjust" or pull out the thermostat. I pulled out the white ceramic plug at the end of the top metal strip with the two metal discs that make contact. I had already given the red screw a couple counter-clockwise turns. I wanted to Fix #3 (remove the thermostat), but I'm too timid, not being very handy. I was able to get everything re-assembled. The switch works, the fan works, but now NO HEAT. What did I do wrong?

Can you help or know anyone who can?

Can I call you? I'm in Minneapolis MN.

Thanks for your time,
Dave Koch
952-715-0786 Cell
Great to talk to you Dave. Be sure and post a note here to let us know you're back up-and-running.

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Thanks so much CHAD. I took it apart again, tightened up the screw, ensured the contacts were solid, but still no heat. Usually operator error is the first thing I check. But, I'm stumped. Tomorrow's another day.

Thanks again,
Do you have a multi-meter? With the unit unplugged and disassembled, we can walk you thru some measurements to see why it is not working.

Repeat, the unit must be unplugged before doing any measurements.

No, I don't have a multi-meter. My step-son will bring one tomorrow.

Thank you very, very much,


p.s. I'm getting really good at re-assembling the PI.

Edited by dkoch on 06/13/2010 5:19 PM
Got Heat? Yup!

My step-son figured it out right away. Murphy's

The heating coil broke off AND became "spot connected" to a washer that had slipped through the black housing. Go figure....strange.

CHAD and bvwelch,

Thank you so much for your help.

Dave Koch
Dave - just to clarify - you're up and running OK now? If not, we can discuss a trade - sounds like it is repairable. -bill

Yes, the Poppery has heat; but, I have not roasted any beans yet. I'll do that tomorrow and post the results. Thanks so much for suggesting the multi-meter. That helped so much to isolate the problem.

BTW, is there a way to replace the heating coil? This one is very fragile; as we, had to twist the coil wire together to complete the circuit.

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you,

I've never tried replacing the heating coil. Perhaps you can find a ring connector to crimp onto the end instead of twisting?

Stretching the coil slightly is OK -- in fact some folks shorten the coil, slightly, on purpose, in order to get a little more heat out of their roaster.

Keep an eye for a spare P1. Or a Pumper. I've even got a JC Penney branded Pumper. All of them work good.
The PI is waaaay too hot now. I normally roast 1/2 cup of green with good bean movement. Now the fan won't move the beans enough. The beans burn after about 2 minutes, even with constant stirring.

Does the fan work in conjunction with the heater? That is, do hotter temps move fewer beans?'s always something.
Edited by dkoch on 06/16/2010 9:55 PM
Dave, on a P1, the circuit for the fan is separate from the heat.

Perhaps you shorted out waaaay too many turns of the heater coil, and now your drawing more current and that might result in a reduced voltage/power available for your fan.

To prove this, disconnect your heater circuit and prove that the fan is OK.

Isn't taking the P1 apart and putting it back together again fun?

Hang in there, you'll get it working again. Just keep one hand in your pocket to avoid shock!


bvwelch wrote:
.....Perhaps you shorted out waaaay too many turns of the heater coil, and now your drawing more current and that might result in a reduced voltage/power available for your fan.

Isn't taking the P1 apart and putting it back together again fun?

You'resosmart! I probably screwed that up too much:) I'll check it.

UH-oh. Now it doesn't even power up. Ideas?
Hi Dave,

Maybe if you could compare your connections to Mike's photos? The idea I was suggesting, was to connect only the fan and not the heat, just to verify the fan is OK.

Or send us a photo showing how you've got it wired up now.
Right after the "waaay too hot roast", it would'nt turn back on (I hadn't dis-assembled it at that point). Is there a fuse to check, can the switch go bad, etc...? What would cause both circuits to not turn on?

I'll take it apart and get some photos.
May as well leave it apart and round up that multi-meter too.
May have isolated the circuit break issue. The callout (white arrow) in the attached image points to the component on the motor chassis that the meter indicates no continuity. Is this a fuse, resistor, etc.? Can it be replaced?
dkoch attached the following image:

Edited by dkoch on 06/18/2010 2:55 PM
Yes, that's a thermal protector. The temp range will be printed on it. Replace by crimping!!
Good luck,Scott
Thanks Scott. Can you dumb-it-down a little for me? Crimp what? etc.

You guys are WAAAAAAAAAAY over my head here.
Sorry, Sometimes I fail to communicate well.

It runs in-line with the motor wire. If it senses to much heat, it breaks the circuit, killing power to the motor.
To replace, slice open the protective sheath, un-crimp
or cut out to remove.
When installing , attempting to solder it in place can ruin
the new one, so crimp it instead.
The new sensor may come with the crimps.
When purchasing the new one, it should have the same max temp as the old one. (It will be printed on the side)
Good luck, you'll be roasting again in no time.
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