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snwcmpr
09/18/2019 4:09 AM
JavaBob ... You will get more response if you post a question on the forum rather than the shoutbox.

Mathew
09/17/2019 5:50 AM
check out the Hive Roaster!

JavaBob
09/16/2019 4:03 PM
Has anyone used a Leister hot air blower to roast coffee and if so, which model did you use? What was your experience like?

JavaBob
09/16/2019 3:53 PM
Source for customable borosilicate glass cylinders for use as a roasting chamber?

shoron
09/06/2019 7:25 AM
how to make medium raw colored beans to dark ?

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CoffeeAir II Roaster Build
RoasterRob
Hi Chad, the picture is the one that does work well. The one that didn't had a lot more holes.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
RoasterRob wrote:
Hi Chad, the picture is the one that does work well. The one that didn't had a lot more holes.

Rob


Thanks, Rob. Since your tube is round, there are more holes toward the middle of the bean mass, and fewer near the wall. I wonder if this is a factor?

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
13holepatternzulu.jpg

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch
Is it feasible to provide for a replaceable and adjustable perf plate? Seems like this is one of the key parameters/variables.
 
seedlings
I taped off some of the outer most holes and circulation improved dramatically. The plate will be replaced and I'm going to drill a pattern like the lower picture above. Only this time I'll drill some, check circulation, then drill more.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
RoasterRob
How about putting a flange around the bottom and bolting a perf plate on. Then you can try different sizes and spacings. You can use mild steel for experimenting which is easier to drill and usually available free as scrap.

Rob
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
Unta
hows the heat coming along?

Sean Harrington
educate.
 
http://www.untacoffee.com
JETROASTER
I second the motion. Scott
 
seedlings
Unta wrote:
hows the heat coming along?


I haven't turned the heat on yet - in fact, I have yet to run the 220V outlet, but that won't take long, it's 30' of unfinished space from the garage.

Regarding the flange: I can't figure how that will work without leaking hot air all around it, negating it's benefit.

My welding friend lost his wife's grandfather on Saturday, so it will be a little while before he can redo it. I found out yesterday that my woodworking neighbor has a small wire-feed welder. He seemed very tentative about dusting it off, so we'll see.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Koffee Kosmo
Chad
Just me thinking aloud and putting my thoughts to the discussion

I was using our Bamix hand wand mixer and was wondering if the aerator tool would be applicable to your air roaster

The shape of the holes and indentation will also twirl the beans

See photo
KK
Koffee Kosmo attached the following image:
bamix_tool.jpg

I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
JETROASTER
Marshall,
How's the wing? Scott
 
endlesscycles
freshbeans wrote:
Marshall,
How's the wing? Scott


Haven't implemented it in my cylindrical roaster; I was thinking it would be easier to use in a future rectangular chamber....but on second thought it could at least be investigated on the present design. But there is so much to do already!

My thoughts are that it would prevent the pulsing that occurs at certain stages of the roast where the weight of the beans floods the hot air flow before being poofed back out of the way; mostly a harmonic condition of deeper bean beds which I have found result in a flatter cup. If recirculation could be sped up, the flattening and pulsing wouldn't occur, and the wing may assist in speedier flow. Definitely worth looking into, as there is a definite system energy efficiency of the deeper bean bed.

I think it does add more design variables, and comparative sectional area of between the ramp and wing, and the hot air flow, are important. Roughly equal is probably the place to start. Maybe a good project for a raining day (today).
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
JETROASTER
I didn't realize you were cylindrical. Very nice, I've already implemented in a cylinder (dead center). You are right on!
Alot more control, very disciplined bean flow.
This is one of those things that seems to be a creation of homeroasters. Strange that sivetz(etc) never went this route.
My personal preference is actually a variable airfoil. I made it adjustable to study, then realized it made sense to keep it that way.
Interested in an open-source project? ...you're on the list

Good Luck-Scott

 
bvwelch
Cement board questions:

1) what brand are you using?

2) what thickness?

3) will it hold up over time, or will it crumble to dust after a few roasts and need replacing? I know nothing about cement board, but noticed a wikipedia mention of 'drywall' as being 'ablative'.
 
seedlings
Bill, I'm using hardibacker board, 1/4" thickness. Cuts with a carbide blade. You can find it at lowes or home depot by the ceramic tile. It's sometimes used instead of drywall for tile showers.

I don't know about lifespan. I've only hit it with a heatgun for 5 minutes to see what would happen. Pretty much nothing did, so it's all an experiment.

Still haven't re-welded the flange... the to-do list keeps growing.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
endlesscycles
Wing / divider on the asymmetric roast chamber did not work well for me today. I started tall and cut it down slowly until I was absolutely convinced that it only caused problems.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
JETROASTER
Hi Marshall,
How did you calculate the shape to cut within the RC ?
( if it's angled) Thanks,Scott
 
Ringo
Wonder if you could put a few holes on the downward slope, not many. Just to encourage the beans to move along.
All you need in life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. Mark Twain
 
endlesscycles
Scott: I thought about angles this way and that and both seemed problematic. I went straight, and tried full capacity green and roasted no heat, lots of jamming up and launching beans far too high without enough circulation / airflow to roast well.

Ringo: I don't think it's necessary, gravity alone really does do well enough. A steeper ramp might do better or a fully triangular x-section ala Sivetz.

I'm using Rob's design, 6" diameter, a way overpowered torch (that works fine down to ~1/2lb green) , an Ametek vacuum motor, and getting very good roast control and excellent repeatability. 4lbs green is brighter and sweeter, 6lbs green is more mellow like a drum's results, and 5lbs green is what I go with for a slight compromise between efficiency and flavor.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
JETROASTER
Marshall, thanks for the endeavor. I poked around looking for some photos of you machine. Did i miss the thread?

Thanks,Scott
 
seedlings
Wow. Long delays, but I have the plate re-welded... now for drilling pattern. I'm taking it SLOW with lots of testing.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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