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CharcoalRoaster
11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

snwcmpr
11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

allenb
11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

Funopt
10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

snwcmpr
10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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CoffeeAir II Roaster Build
allenb
Chad,

I can't see any reason why a parallel heater arrangement would have a problem. Regardless if one element is putting out lower/higher temps while being controlled you're going to get an average of the two and as I now understand (better than a week ago) you're going to get full available power to the air. In addition, you might end up with less heat loss to exterior panels with a parallel arrangement.

Note: As mentioned earlier, keep the distance from discharge of elements to point of contact with coffee to a minimum.

If I were doing it that's the way I'd go.

Have fun building!

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
endlesscycles
Chad, that's awesome! You are already applying new information into your design; I really admire your resourcefulness. My first thought is to think about surface area when considering heat loss.

Allen, I'm really happy that you are getting to reevaluate past projects under new light. It's really paradigm shifting to realize things don't have to be complicated and to have constraints lifted.

Happy fabricating, y'all!
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
bvwelch
Make things as simple as possible, but not simpler. A. Einstein

Allen - no worries. Reminds me of my first posts here-- all about a nifty gadget I built from scratch, only to have someone gently point out that Harbor Freight had a 'router speed controller' that would do the same job for about $10.
Edited by bvwelch on 05/07/2010 4:42 PM
 
seedlings
Here's the heater section:
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementSide.jpg

Underneath; round hole is blower inlet:
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementBottom.jpg

Top:
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementTop.jpg

And a closeup inside, underneath:
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementInside.jpg

The elements have tiny screws to attach the wires, so I decided to solder, made sure the soldered ends were nearest the blower, and they should stay cool enough. The elements are held in place by the 16ga wire and the tube. The tube is lined with mica paper (click on the closeup to see) so that the elements don't touch the cement board.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 05/08/2010 7:38 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
allenb
What are you using for adhesive to hold the cement board together?

If the solder is on the same side of the ceramic as where the nichrome is attached you could (possibly) hit solder melting temps even with the air blowing directly onto it. Hopefully not an issue.

I'm very interested to see how the cement board works out for you as I have some ideas for future projects.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
seedlings
To bond the board, I'm using VersaChem Clear Silicone from Oreilly Auto Parts:
http://www.oreill...;ppt=C0137
images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/vch/12007.jpg

The cement board is really easy to work with for me... you can see my cuts aren't perfect, but with 1/4" thickness, just add some silicone.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
bvwelch
I wonder if you could crimp on some of those 'ring' connectors instead of soldering...

http://www.radios...Id=2117816

-bill
 
SteveN
I've tried the crimping and it doesn't work well with smooth metal. I can't exactly tell what you need to connect to from the picture either.

I'm interested to see about the soldering... I also tried (and failed at) that but I didn't have a blower directly on it.

That said, my current setup is crimped; I just have to be careful with it. I'd rather just get a quick spot weld done. If only I had such a device.
 
Koffee Kosmo
SteveN wrote:
I've tried the crimping and it doesn't work well with smooth metal. I can't exactly tell what you need to connect to from the picture either.

I'm interested to see about the soldering... I also tried (and failed at) that but I didn't have a blower directly on it.

That said, my current setup is crimped; I just have to be careful with it. I'd rather just get a quick spot weld done. If only I had such a device.


I have made spot welders by using car batteries when in the outback

Search the net on how to make a resistance spot welder plenty of information on the subject

KK
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
seedlings
Can you weld dissimilar metals with an outback welder?

My backup plan is to remove the small screws, bore larger holes and replace with larger bolts. I took the easy way out for now.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
seedlings
Hopper has been welded by a friend. It's 11ga 4"x4" square tube, 19" long. Cut at a 45deg angle, and has 3/4" of home-drilled perf. Most of the holes are 3/16", and I filled in here and there with a few smaller holes. The opening on the side will be viewing glass salvaged from 500W halogen lamps, attached with more of the silicone.

i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13hopper1b.jpg
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13hopper1a.jpg
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13hopper1c.jpg
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13hopper1d.jpg
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13hopper1e.jpg

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Unta
Bottom flange is a handle for dumping? looks good.
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
http://www.untacoffee.com
Ringo
This design looks really good, It would be easy to put a trier on the side and catch the beans as they fall back down!
 
JETROASTER
Bottom flange for stability? Chicken Dinner? Scott
 
seedlings
freshbeans wrote:
Bottom flange for stability? Chicken Dinner? Scott


Winner, winner!

At some point there will be a load/unload. I'm taking baby steps, though, and want to see circulation, then roasted coffee before investing further effort.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER
It looks great!. If you need to max-out airflow thru the perf, blow it all out and I'll send you some stainless mesh.
Love the design ! -Scott
 
endlesscycles
just went back out to the trash to grab that shop lamp! Great idea.

It's not about more airflow, its about the right airflow, or rather the least air to get the beans to circulate...or so I would think. % cross sectional area as perforation, and perforation density are both variables. Vacuum power/ cfm curve is a constraint. I have a fluid dynamics book around here somewhere, but otherwise I don't exactly know how one would engineer this properly.

With that said, it may be possible that a small section with high perforation density does it as well or better than the 15% section with medium perf density of the Sivetz design. However, Sivietz is a more accomplished engineer than I, and I would think he knew the equations and applied them well.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
seedlings
I learn something new everyday. Tempered glass can't be cut (unless it's un-tempered first), so my plan to salvage the glass from halogen lamps has been foiled, Marshall. It's first cut to shape, then tempered.

I called around and found a local glass place with a scrap of 1/4" pyrex large enough to cut to the size I needed for $21.

The sight glass should be installed tonight.

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 05/11/2010 7:24 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
RoasterRob
Tempered glass - Yup found that one out along the way.

Scott- mesh has its own problems, mainly a much more random bean flow. Perf works better, although Chads holes are bigger and closer together than what I find worked best on my RCs.

Rob
Edited by RoasterRob on 05/11/2010 7:42 AM
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
JETROASTER
Yup, the mesh only seems to work well with a small port.
A number of years back I tried it with a 6" surface....total flop.
Good luck w/ the glass
-Scott
 
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