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CharcoalRoaster
11/04/2019 1:58 AM
+1 snwcmpr

snwcmpr
11/03/2019 2:16 AM
Can we make the shoutbox UNAVAILABLE until a member has a certain number of posts?

allenb
11/01/2019 2:20 AM
Funopt, please post in the gas and electric heat sources forum

Funopt
10/30/2019 5:17 AM
Can someone help me for using forced propane burner as my heating element. I rather want to use lpg than electric. Do you think it would work

snwcmpr
10/22/2019 5:31 AM
Thanks to you all....... I was not sleeping ... I stayed awake worried about it all. :)

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CoffeeAir II Roaster Build
dja
Chad,

Since the part numbers came from you thread I decided to post the question here.

I picked up two coils like the ones you use except that the ones I got are 1000 watters.

how did you supend the coils in the tubes in your roaster or do you have them just hanging in there, and what type of wire did you use to hook up with, wire with regular insulation, or wire intended for high temp applications???????????


I and going to shorten the heating section of my roaster and hopefully mount the coils open air like inside the heater section side by side, still have to go cabbage up some high temp wire, maybe trash one of the poppers I have or go to the thrift store for a toaster.

on the coils, right now I am looking at milling out a bar with two slots for the wide end of the coil ceramic to fit into, them spreadind and supporting the other end with like 6/32 stainless steel all thread, or a road with threaded ends thru some small tubing with the road passign through a central support.

David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
David, I soldered 12ga solid copper wire to the terminal leads, and that wire goes out either side of the chamber. Since it is stiff, it does suspend the coils up into the riser tubes. The only thing holding them there is wire and the fact that the clearance is tight and they can't go anywhere.

Chamber:
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementBottom.jpg

Zoomed in on elements inside (this is the underneath/bottom where cool air enters):
i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13elementInside.jpg

These elements are 8 ohms each, wired in series. With 240V from the wall that's:
P=(V^2)/R
P=57600/16
P=3600W

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
the ones I got are suppose to be 1000 watts apeice, at 700 degrees is what they are suppose to put out, have you had any problems with the electrical solder getttign hot and soft??
Will post pictures when I get mine mounted.

David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
dja wrote:
the ones I got are suppose to be 1000 watts apeice, at 700 degrees is what they are suppose to put out, have you had any problems with the electrical solder getttign hot and soft??
Will post pictures when I get mine mounted.

David


Well, I haven't looked at the solder. I just figure it's on the cold air side of the heat.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
ok I may get away with using ire with regular insulation them my problem is I need soft wire with the way that I plan on mounting the coils.
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
dja
I thought the coils you used from looking in Grangiers catalog were 700 watts each????
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
David- I have two replacement elements from this heatgun:

http://www.graing...Pid=search

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
thats the same element that I plan on using, do you have your elements connected in parrallel or so that you can control them seperately?

I plan to connect mine up in a straight 220 circuit, from the roast that I was able to do before the element shorted into where I had spliced it (grimped the two ends together in half a butt splice), I did no control of bean temp with the Heat all control was with air flow.
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
endlesscycles
dja wrote:
thats the same element that I plan on using, do you have your elements connected in parrallel or so that you can control them seperately?

I plan to connect mine up in a straight 220 circuit,...


Doubling voltage quadruples power. Let me know how that goes. I've got three of them that I plan to use in time. I suspect it is heat that fails nichrome, not total watts. I need to invest in some things before I can actually check it out, though.
-Marshall Hance
Asheville, NC
 
seedlings
David, if you put 220V across your element, I believe it would fail much sooner than the last element. Mine are in series, so each element gets it's designed 120V.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
thats what I'm thinking also, be nice to try it the element didn't cost so darn much.

I got to work on the new holder that I am making yesterday, but this leg problem keeps me pretty much in a chair, when I need to be standing in front of the mill cutting out the part that I need to put my roasters heater back together with. I was lucky yesterday, my brother in Tulsa brought me a heater coil from a motel type heat and air unit, it has some nice high temp wire with ceramic tube insulation on it that I can scavange for my hook up wire.

anxiously awaiting the arrivial of the new Brazialian Burbon Beans, this [email protected]@N roaster better be back together by the time they arrive.

OOOOH well its all in fun and caffine.Grin
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
dja
Chad, I was finally able to get the new coils mounted in the roaster I connected them together in parrallel and checked the ohms on them, together they only pulled 17.5 ohms, so I went ahead and hooked up the power to them, surpise surpise when they build lots of heat in the heater section but very little coming out into the beans, guess I'm gonna have to open up the pref holes some to let the air flow better.

I did have a beautiful spouting water fountain type air flow thru the beans though.

I also plan on raising the elements closer to the air outlet (before final build I plan on cutting lower sections as short as possible) and I moved them closer to the rod that I have them mounted on, have not taken a pic yet but one will be forth coming this evening in my Air Roaster Thread.


David
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Just roasted 2 pounds 3 ounces in 38F weather! I went to weigh out 1.75 pounds, and only had a little left, so I just roasted all of it. I did have to use the heatgun on low for about 5 minutes of the roast from bean temp 350F through about 410F, but it can be done!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
greencardigan
Well done! That's 2 pounds 3 ounces (1kg) with 3600W of heating?

So my 4800W shouldn't have trouble doing 1kg with a 60F ambient temp.
 
seedlings
greencardigan wrote:
Well done! That's 2 pounds 3 ounces (1kg) with 3600W of heating?

So my 4800W shouldn't have trouble doing 1kg with a 60F ambient temp.


4800W sounds perfect! Heatgun is something like 1600W, but I used low, held 16" or so from the vac inlet... so that was surely less than 1000W?

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
SteveN
seedlings wrote:
greencardigan wrote:
Well done! That's 2 pounds 3 ounces (1kg) with 3600W of heating?

So my 4800W shouldn't have trouble doing 1kg with a 60F ambient temp.


4800W sounds perfect! Heatgun is something like 1600W, but I used low, held 16" or so from the vac inlet... so that was surely less than 1000W?

CHAD


Agreed, I've managed 1.2kg with my 5500W element and I still think I can squeeze more efficiency out of it.
 
seedlings
Finally got this ridiculously long video to load to youtube:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7t78rf0z5k[/video]

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
greencardigan
Thanks for the video! A video says a million words. I watched it at work with the sound low so I'll watch again later to hear what you're saying.

You said previously that you only get minimal air leakage around the base of the RC. Is it leaking enough to feel the air coming out there?

Also, what is the purpose of the wire around the HC?
Edited by greencardigan on 02/10/2011 11:00 AM
 
seedlings
Yes I can feel hot air leaking out. If I could magically make the bottom plate differently, I would, but since it would take a re-weld (that I can't do) then it will stay this way.

That wire held the cement board together while the silicone cured and I just never took it off.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
seedlings
An order has been placed for a CoffeeAir roaster, so the build will begin again.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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