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allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 04/02/2020 4:50 AM
Morning Ed, I haven't done any green coffee hoarding yet but am hoping the supplies don't end up like the toilet paper isles!

snwcmpr
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· 03/31/2020 2:53 PM
Hey Ed. Thanks. roar

homeroaster
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· 03/31/2020 11:21 AM
Hey quarantined home roasters! I hope you have great coffee! If they have a run on coffee, I hope you're set with your great home roast! Find me on Facebook! Ed Needham

snwcmpr
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· 03/25/2020 11:49 AM
New Rochelle in the news. I think of you every time I hear it. ... Please stay safe.

allenb
OfflineAdmin
· 03/21/2020 7:36 AM
Good morning homeroasters morning Everyone is hopefully staying healthy through this. Hang in there and stay safe!

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CoffeeAir II Roaster Build
Dan
You need to go to a larger size. Go to a hardware store and get two midget fuse holders and two fuses for them.
 
http://www.intactamerica.org
dja
electrical supply house, or give reletive that is an electrician a call. or if close to grainger walk in tell them you want fuses and a holder for KTK-20 fuses. Fuses will be about 3/8" in diameter

I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
dja
something along the line of this from grainger

Fuseholder 30a
Item # 2DC47

David

I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Hardware stores were no help. I went to American Electrical and bought a 3 position midget fuse block for $10.95. Then they wanted to sell me fuses for $17.95 each. Went to Lowe's and they sell them $8 for two fuses. These fuses are 13/32nds x 1.5" long. David, it would've been nice to find a fuse block for the less expensive 3/8" fuses. hopefully I won't have to replace these.

Should have time to work on electronics this weekend.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
dja
sorry about the cost, didn't look at the price of the fuses, Lowes is cheaper cause they buy em in a rail car load, instead of one box at a time.Shock
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
I've made a little progress today... here are the electronic guts:

i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/100_6837.jpg


And the front:

i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/100_6838.jpg


I have run into a bit of a snag... It just occurred to me that I don't know how to mount the thermocouple. I mean, it is easy enough to mount to the hopper, but the logistics of TC wire 5' long - on a removable, dumpable hopper - are elusive..?

Also, the 220V is wired from the breaker box with #10, but would it be OK for 5' cord from the wall to the roaster to be #12? **edit: found #10 scraps at work.

Thanks,
CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 08/30/2010 8:59 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Unta
How about a nice CHADesque arrow/explanation of each of those componants for the electrically inept, ie: ME :)
It looks good I just don't know what I'm looking @..
Sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
http://www.untacoffee.com
seedlings

Quote

Unta wrote:
How about a nice CHADesque arrow/explanation of each of those componants for the electrically inept, ie: ME :)
It looks good I just don't know what I'm looking @..
Sean


i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/13wiregutz1.jpg

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Dan
Very nicely done! I like seeing industrial controls, equipment, and good wiring techniques like this. Attention to these make our hobby safer, serious, and substantial. Dan
 
http://www.intactamerica.org
seedlings
Hey, Dan - I remember you pointing out these safety items before, which is why they're incorporated. So, thank you.


TC placement...The PID will be controlling the heat based on input from this TC, so... is the best placement under the hopper, in the hot air only (position 3 below)?

What do you think?

CHAD
seedlings attached the following image:
13btmetwheretoputit.jpg

Edited by seedlings on 08/30/2010 2:46 PM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Dan
I would put the TC for controlling the roast at position 3. That way, the beans are receiving very even heat. Also, the PID can react quickly to changes. Then, I'd put a thermometer at position 2 to monitor the roast itself.
 
http://www.intactamerica.org
seedlings

Quote

Dan wrote:
I would put the TC for controlling the roast at position 3. That way, the beans are receiving very even heat. Also, the PID can react quickly to changes. Then, I'd put a thermometer at position 2 to monitor the roast itself.


That's what I was thinking. Also, since it will be permanently mounted under the hopper, the hopper will be removable, which solves my other problem.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
RoasterRob
Hi Chad TC placement - IMO one tc at 1 or 3 just below or only just above the perf plate. This is the temp you need to know to affect the roast temp rate. TC 2 should be at the top of the sloped plate (or just above) just in the top of the beans at the start of the roast this keeps it in the beans mass where there is the least influence from the air temp.
I only have a tc in position 2 which i use to profile based on rate of change only. Works well for me.

Rob



VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
 
seedlings
Last night I tested electronics and everything works. For test purposes, I put the TC right above one of the heat elements, and with the airflow on it's lowest setting, blowing into free air (no hopper), the temperature stalled around 250F with the PID set temp at 315F. Hmmm....

Now I'm fabricating the TC permanently into the design - hopefully to try a roast soon...

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
seedlings
Just had some moderate success at lunch break. I got 2 pounds of beans to first crack in 12:00.... but ...

For some reason the Fuji PXV3 wouldn't let me exceed 400F as a setpoint...? Have to read the manual. Also, the TC (between the heat and the bottom of the hopper) was reading very low compared to the thermometer I stuck down in the top of the beans. The bean thermometer was regularly 100F above the K-type TC by the heaters.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
JETROASTER
I'm sorry for your pain. I am however watching closely so I can copy.
It's coming together very nice. Scott
 
Dan
I think there is an upper limit for each TC type, but its been a while since I programmed a Fuji.
 
http://www.intactamerica.org
Unta
chad,
ive had similar results with my TC in the air stream, depending on where I was in relationship to the inlet of the roasting chamber dramatically effected the reading. The closer i moved to the perferated plate the better,usually warmer than what the Bean temp was reading, but again im pulling not pushing so that might effect exactly how the air is moving,, turbulance or lack there of.

Q? Can you create a removeable TC and get it into the beans in position 2?just something you can take out before dumping.
sean
Sean Harrington
educate.
 
http://www.untacoffee.com
seedlings
TC not working where it is (position 3) kind of REALLY sucks because it's sandwiched in a groove between cement board pieces, sealed with silicone. It would be easier to get a new TC than remove this one.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
seedlings
I found the Fuji set to J-type TC instead of K-type, plus moved the Upper Limit temp to 800F (up from 400F).

After those changes, I put the Set Temp to 460F and turned it on with the same half-roasted beans. It took about 15 minutes to get them to 460F (bean temp thermometer stuck down in the beans), rolling second crack. However, the TC under the hopper only read in the 420s, and I don't understand that. For the first several minutes the ET probe read higher than the BT probe... after that, the BT read higher and corresponded to second crack temperature of ~440F...???

So, I *can* roast 2# of beans in this beast.

It's time to permanently mount the control box and put some finishing touches on th enclosure. In the near future I'll add an outdoor vent (much more smoke/chaff with 2# beans than my normal 1.25# charge).

Pics and video to come maybe this weekend.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
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