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snwcmpr
10/18/2019 2:37 PM
Eth Nat Yirg Idido roasted yesterday. I dropped some off at a friends coffee shop. In a few days he will brew it and tell me what he thinks. We already believe my roasts are better than what we have b

snwcmpr
10/16/2019 2:52 PM
Thank you for all you guys do.

JackH
10/15/2019 2:02 AM
They seem to be after the shoutbox. They have been removed. I don't see anything in the forums.

snwcmpr
10/14/2019 3:27 PM
We have been hacked. A whole lot of posts that have filled up the whole forum.

snwcmpr
10/10/2019 4:49 AM
Honduras Royal Reserve today.

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Building a drum roaster
Ringo
I will put in a trier, Want to get the roaster turning a full rpm so I can pick the spot. Lot of stuff to fit in the frount of the roaster, going to be tight. I need two temp probes, one bean on enviromental, trier, sight glass, dump door, and the exhaust opening also serves as the opening to add beans. If you look at the picture, the first set of veins are 1 1/4 inchs high and the come all the wat to the frount of the drum, so the beans will dump. The reverse veins do not start for 3 inches, I am going to use that 3 inches for trier and temp probes. just have to stay out of the first 1 1/4 inches from the outside off drum. New pictures coming soon, got a good bit done this weekend. Drum frame is mounted, as soon as I get drum turning will post more.
Edited by Ringo on 01/25/2010 9:52 AM
 
Ringo
Update on the roaster, Been a fight getting the drum to turn without locking up. Had to some design changes, frount and back plates had to be attached. Also had to add more threaded rods to adjust the plates. as you can see in one picture it now runs and gets hot with the propane burners. Next step is drum outer cover and ventilization system.
Ringo attached the following image:
smaller6.jpg

Edited by Ringo on 01/31/2010 1:00 PM
 
Ringo
Back side with air holes cut
Ringo attached the following image:
small3.jpg

Edited by Ringo on 01/31/2010 1:03 PM
 
Ringo
Drum and burner running
Ringo attached the following image:
smaller7.jpg
 
seedlings
Hints of success!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
jerry43
I found some info on pipe burner btu output. According to this faq, a 3/4 inch pipe with 18 inches of flame puts out 10,000 btu. 12 inches of flame would be 9,000.

http://www.burner...nerfaq.pdf

1500 watts is equal to 5120 btu.
Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 4:19 AM
 
seedlings
Great link!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Ringo
That is a great page, I used it while working on my design. I believe I have more BTU than that, I am using an adjustable presure regulator set at 5 psi. The 8" water colume is much lower presure. I drilled double the holes, 50 per side. With 1/2 spacing the flame jumped hole to hole very slowly. I think I have too much heat, but using a needle valve after the presure valve I can regulate the flame height very well. I know that putting in this needle valve after the presure valve my jet is not seeing the 5 psi. But if I raise presure a little the flame changes. I think if you played with smaller jetting you could put full presure to jet and get more BTUs. One nice think is I have room for 4 tube heaters in my roaster, so if I need more heat I can add them. If anybody wants to know I am running #56 jets now.http://www.tejass...urners.htm
http://www.wedlin...urners.htm
http://www.allied...034805eb9f
http://bayouclass.../index.htm
A few of my links.
Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 6:42 AM
 
Ringo
One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site.
 
seedlings
Ringo wrote:
One warning on the pipe burners, I do not think they will work for an air roaster. If too much air blows past them they will blow out. You might be able to use one before the blower and pull the hot air through, but for air roaster I would use a burner tip from a welding shop like other people on this site.


Right! For air flow burners, read up on these resources:

http://ronreil.ab...ign1.shtml
http://www.jossre...rsion.html

CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 02/04/2010 7:02 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Ringo
Update on my roaster, First I screwed thin sheet metal to the angle iron. On the outside of this I put 1 inch thick fiberglass duct board.
Ringo attached the following image:
roaster7.jpg

Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 1:58 PM
 
Ringo
Next I used thin aluminum used to wrap steam pipes. Its thin and cheep. I used steel strapping to hold it all together. The hole you see is a view port to keep an eye on the burners. Next I have to work on the front of the roaster.
Ringo attached the following image:
roaster6.jpg

Edited by Ringo on 02/23/2010 2:07 PM
 
seedlings
Yes! Yes! Yes!

Looking sharp, Ringo!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
jerry43
What are you using for your viewport glass and are you allowing for any thermal expansion?

I trashed a toaster oven a few months ago that I could have got glass from. Almost kept it but decided I had too much junk around as is.
 
Ringo
Got my glass from Mcmaster Carr. part number 1357T31. I work with boilers at work and use this glass to view the firebox. So it should be good, but no garantee. The glass on the side is welding hood glass, we also use this with boilers.
For thermal shock just made a loose fit, room for differential expantion.

Ringo
 
DrJimmy
One source for free glass is the really old gas grills that still had windows. Also, ovens have glass on the inside that withstands at least 600 degF for self cleaning.
JIM
 
Ringo
I am hoping that I am inspiring other builders, it has taken me a long time. I am not a welder so I am slow. On my project new pictures soon, almost ready for first test run. I found this picture online, its a Ambex YM2 or at least thats how its labled. Would have loved to have this picture before I started.
Ringo attached the following image:
144271911_52c83a1dcd_m.jpg

Edited by Ringo on 03/24/2010 6:53 AM
 
Ringo
The outside
Ringo attached the following image:
143698171_3f3e45f7e4_m.jpg
 
jerry43
Ringo,

Looking mighty good there! Post your pics sized to the limit of 500x500 pixels so we can get a better look.
 
Ringo
Here is the link to the site I found it, Its on Flicker not a very good picture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/wheregoodthingsgrow/ its page 9 or 10
Edited by Ringo on 03/25/2010 1:22 PM
 
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