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Just waiting on my TC4 shipment then it's roasting time

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Hi, I use a wok with a glass lid for roasting. shaking the wok is a good exercise, actually.

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Building a drum roaster
I am working on a new roaster, looking for helpfull advice. First off I have to fess up I am going to cheet a little. Took a piece of 8" scedule 40 steel pipe 1 foot long to a local machine shop. For a few hundred dollars he is putting in the shaft, truing up the ends of the drum. Cutting 1/2 inch steel end plates and mounting the drum to end plates with flange bearings. Plasma cutting the dump door and giving me the left over piece. Also putting all stirring vanes in drum, forward and reverse. This machine shop can do anything, offered to build the whole roaster but too steep for my budget. Heat I have planed, two 1 foot long tube heaters made with 3/4 inch schedule 40 pipe. with 50 1/16 holes drilled in each, run on propane @ 20 psi. Not my design coppied from a web site for making smoke house. This is a little worrysome, Will the draft fan blow out the flame on the pipes. Heat imput control will be manual for now, untill I see if it works. Will not have a cooling deck untill I see how it roast. Airfow is another worry, Burners will be under the drum, heating the drum, gasses will flow around the outside of drum to the top of the drum were the induced fan will pull them through the drum into the chaff cyclone.
Welcome to Homeroasters, Ringo!

Honestly your setup sounds very much like a commercial roaster. You want airflow, in fact pro drum roasters use the airflow to control temperature. More airflow lowers temperature.

Be sure to run out to the machine shop and snap a few photos if they'll allow that!

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
This is as much of a copy as I can make it, just smaller. Pictures of roasters insides are hard to find, I found as many as I could and "copyed". Little worried to post many pictures becouse are the roasters patented? Going to get the roaster from the machine shop next week, will take pictures then. These machinest are good old boys, would let anybody in and answer any questions.
If you're building this for personal use, post pictures! If you're planning to copy a roaster, build 500 units and sell them, then, you might upset someone who owns a patent. As a general rule, I don't think someone can patent a "cylinder with vanes". You'd have to copy angles, placement, rotational speed, metal composition... If you took ideas from here and there and built something, that's called innovation!

Edited by seedlings on 01/14/2010 3:20 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Yea, only for me, so pictures coming next week. If I know my personality I will be buiding a bigger one in 6 months. My familly says anything I do I "over do" :|
Hi Ringo

sch40 8" is 8.18mm thick. A roaster in the range you are building would be less than 3mm thick.

Rob vL
VBM Minimax 2gp, 1gp Reneka Techno, 2 gp la Pavoni Pub, la Cimbali M28, SJ Maz, FB 6kg HM roaster and other stuff
Ok, picked up my drum today, and overall happy. Drum is centered on shaft very good and the veins do a really good job stirring beans. The are the two most important things. The drum face is a little out of square so I will have to fix that. As drum turns you get an uneven sound. The threaded rod you see is to adjust the gap, if I get the gap small so no beans will fall out drum jams. Machine shop used some galvanized parts, will have to get them off. On the drum, really do not know what grade the pipe is, it came from the scrap pile. It has a 8" ID and a 1/4 wall. This is one off my worries, So much steel in this roaster when I hit 1c and want to slow it down the roast will I be able too. Machine shop used 5/16 plate on the end plates. 3/4 shaft.
Ringo attached the following image:
Ringo attached the following image:
Ringo attached the following image:
I've yet to build one myself but I would say that you will have a tremendous heat sink with all that thick metal. It is going to take a well designed air system to slow that roaster down once it gets hot. You do need to get the drum face square as you may need to adjust the end plate once it gets hot and the metal expands.

I also would say that the drum rotation speed needs to be fairly high to keep the beans off of that hot drum surface while trying to drop the temp of the roast.
John Despres
Typical drum speed is about 60 RPM.
Respect the bean.
John Despres
Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers.
Ringo that looks impressive!:Clap: Thanks for enlightening us! ThumbsUp

I share concerns about the thickness of the wall. That's a lot of steel to perforate if that is needed.

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
I do have a fall back plan there, If heat is a problem i will take the drum back to machine shop and have is turned down. I talked to a man who runs a Ambex YM2, he said he thought it would be ok. As I design airflow going to max out possible air flow so after 1st crack turn air too full, my concern is still too much radient heat. My problem today is the tube heaters. Drilled the holes and assembled the venturies and they do not work very well. Blow out easy, hard to regulate. May have to back up and punt here.
Very Impressive !!
I am interested in the burner design. Do you have any pictures or drawings?
Ok, Think I have the burners working now. Had some bad advice first time around. I used these people http://www.tejass...urners.htm Got the venturi there regulater hose. If you build one trust them not me, seem to be helpful nice folks. I installed 16" long black pipe with end caps. It is 3/4 inch schedule 40 black, do not use galvanized, but stainless would be better. I drilled 50 5/64 holes in each row, with two rows 90 deg to each other. I would get an adjustable presure reducer valve, seems like mine likes 5 psi. 20 pis was origanily recomended-thats way too much. IMHA So now I have two pipes that make one foot of heat. Nice blue flame, you can not see it outside. Must install a needle valve to controll gas, first I used a ball valve- uncontrollabe fire. Use this information at you own risk- this is the first time I ever messed with propane. I do not know any safty codes, I did buy a safty valve and a pilot light so I will not blow up the garage. Trust tejassmokers, what they told me works. Have know idea how many BTU's. I think a little too much.
Edited by seedlings on 01/18/2010 7:33 AM
Ringo attached the following image:
holes, not very straight-but seem to work
Ringo attached the following image:

Edited by Ringo on 01/18/2010 7:27 AM
I love fire and any device that propels it. Nice work.

How does the safety valve work?

Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
Its just like on you water heater, Light the pilot hold in the button till the TC heats up then you can light the burner. If the pilot goes out the gas shuts off- I hope:)
I've been thinking about a roughly similar design, but with a different support structure for the rotating drum so it could support a trier. Did you consider this?
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