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Copper door & lower hinges completed - 3/4 lb, heating element, drum type build log
rcwarship
Since there are invariably tech problems, need for ideas & at times encouragement; I thought I would try my hand at a build log.

My goal:
1 lb of beans, halogen bulb heat source, horizontal drum roaster using stainless & aluminum.

Progress to date:
Drum is an Ikea4 3/4" dia. x 7" cuttlery caddy $4.99 (part no. 301.317.16)
Here's a link to their 5" one, I went with the 7"
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30011832

Used perforated commercial cooking tray $8.99
Edited by rcwarship on 09/11/2009 4:40 PM
 
rcwarship
Raw materials
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/SilverwareCaddy.jpg


Perforated aluminum, commercial baking tray, 18" x 26"
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/NewDrumMaterial-1.jpg

Completed drum:
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/CompletedDrum.jpg
Edited by rcwarship on 06/20/2009 2:25 PM
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
seedlings
AWESOME, I really like your great ideas from locally available items! Throw some stirring tines in there and a top and bottom, and you're in business!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
Koffee Kosmo
That's an excellent idea RC to keep a photo journal of the build it gives others that follow an idea.
A spark in time with great use of materials

This is how I presented my roaster design to HR

http://forum.home...ad_id=1142


May I suggest that the holes in the cutlery caddy may be to large and the beans may fall out
Get a hold of some green coffee beans and try an experiment

I have found by trial and error that 1/4 inch holes are the best size

KK
Edited by Koffee Kosmo on 04/26/2009 11:43 AM
I home roast and I like it
Blog - http://koffeekosm...gspot.com/
Bezzera Strega: Mazzer Robur Grinder: 5 Box hand grinders: Pullman Tamper Convex: (KKTO) Turbo Oven Home Roaster: CONA Glass Rod Syphon: Pyrex Brewer:
 
http://koffeekosmo.com.au
rcwarship
The $25 motor arrived today from ebay: 15 RPM, 120V AC with a very quiet internal gear set.
Next up: internal tines, shafting and coupling.
Then a trial fit/operation to see how the tines will work at moving the beans around & ejecting (or not) from the basket. More fun than a grown man should be allowed to have!
Best Regards to All,
Jon

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/15_RPM_120V_AV_Motor.jpg
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
rcwarship
Started in on the internal end bulkheads for the roasting chamber. I wanted stiff ones due to the cut outs for the shafting and also for the unloading chute. I had some 0.080" thick aluminum from another project and used it. I think thinner would have been easier to work, but the cost was right.
I used two forms, sandwiched the material between it and made maybe 7 or 8 passes to get it formed over. This Yahoo movie was the inspiration for giving it a try:


Here's a shot of the start of the process, followed by some intermediate & completed shots:
Starting to bend it over
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FormsMaterial.jpg
Taking it slow and easy
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FormsMaterial1.jpg
The compound curve caused buckling that needed additional hammering
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FormsMaterial2.jpg
Finished project
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FinishedEndCap.jpg
Shot of the rough end. It and the other end cap will be covered with a polished finish piece when it's completed
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FinishedEndCapEdge.jpg
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
seedlings
Pow!

Nice stuff. I love to watch the progress.

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
rcwarship
KK,
Great thought on the holes being too big, the pictures are kind of deceptive, the holes are 1/8" at their narrow point and almost a 1/4" at the longest. Should be good I think.

Chad,
I appreciate your kind words, and am looking forward to a test of the stirring tines inside the basket tomorrow or Tuesday.

I'm in process of looking for a fan to provide cooling air after dumping the beans. Anyone have any idea of what CFM would be needed for a pound of beans? The cooling fan in my computer is around 35 CFM or so & I believe that 10x that much or more would be needed. The computer fan is pretty anemic.

I also found some 1/2" x 5"cylindrical heating elements, that I am going to try; as it would allow a much smaller roasting chamber than halogen lights. I got 2 500W ones off of Ebay for $22. Figured even if they didn't work out, I couldn't go wrong at that price. I had originally thought to put one of them in the drum, however with the drum only 4.75", I am afraid of scorching the beans. I have a 600W light dimmer switch to control one of them, figuring that if needed, one could be on full bore with fine tuning provided by the dimmer connected to the other element.

Here's a shot of one of them setting on the stove while under power.
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Heatingelement.jpg

Here's a shot of them both, with the electric plug for scale.
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Heatingelements.jpg

Best Regards To All,
Jon
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
seedlings
1000W to roast a pound is VERY effecient... you may find that you need almost double that. Also, be sure the roaster keeps the heat in, and has very little extra air to heat.

Cooling... 1lb isn't too much to cool. A popular method is to put a collander inside a 5gal bucket, then attach your shopvac to the base of the bucket. Cools fast. Or, you can get a small blower to mount inside said bucket.

Check out the coolers from our Bean Cooler Contest:

http://forum.home...orum_id=67

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
rcwarship
Yepper Chad, you are right on the money! Good point about extra air, I will need to be providing a way to get the smoke out of the chamber & also figure that air will provide some fine tuning on the temperature settings.

I am building the roaster double wall - aluminum inside with either brass or copper for the exterior pretty stuff, with 1" Superwool (Kaowool by another name) insulation from a pottery place.

I really didn't want to spring for the insulation as I wanted to keep the building costs below $75.00, however, I wanted to keep the power requirements down so that a 15 Amp circuit could handle the load. So far I have 3 Amps for the motor and 8.3 Amps for the heating elements. I can add another 500 W without any problems and still have power for the blower.

My initial test was using a 375 W halogen lamp as per original design parameters, the inside temp got up to 425 degrees F on an oven thermometer that was being bombarded by the light. A separate thermometer that was not in the direct light measured 400 . I need to purchase a thermocouple probe and reader. The chamber consisted of the superwool wrapped around a couple of metal end caps to provide an approximation of my intended sized roaster.

Best Regards To All,
Jon
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
scotchale
Slick ! That may work for a future trial-run in a weber Q200 grill I have in mind. I'm using a regular large BBQ grill, but my wife and I are about to spend a year in an RV, so things are getting smaller. I'll use an air-popper at that time, but I'm wanting to tinker with fabricating a custom topper for roasting on the 200 that we'll keep with the RV.

Bryan
 
seedlings
Now that I think about it, you're building a home-made Behmor, which uses 1630W... or a toaster-oven with rotisserie...

One more thought, be sure to mount the heaters far enough away that the air temperature measured at the bean mass is less than about 550F, or scorching may result.

You can do it!

CHAD

Here's an idea for loading/unloading... just at thought,
seedlings attached the following image:
13drum13.jpg

Edited by seedlings on 05/11/2009 7:26 AM
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
John Despres
Hi, Jon.

I think you're on to something that will work quite well.

My experience building my halogen roaster, with the lights inside the drum and focused down onto the beans told me I needed 1000 watts for a half pound. One pound was difficult, however, possible, but difficult.

If you haven't looked at it, the building thread is here: http://forum.home...post_7975.

At one point, one of the lamps self extinguished (burned out), leaving me under powered to roast the beans in a timely fashion. I don't remember the time, but I recall it being much to long - maybe upward of 18 or 20 minutes. It could have been drum size, drum RPM or something else I don't understand or remember.

All of your thoughts and ideas seem right on the money! I can't wait for the next addition to your progress.

Have fun.

John


Respect the bean.
John Despres
Fresh Roast 8, Gene Cafe, JYTT 1k, Quest M3, Mazzer Mini, Technivorm, various size presses and many more brewers.
 
www.sceneitallproductions.com
rcwarship
Initial test results are good, 550+ degrees in 5 to 6 minutes with a single element at full bore. My exterior thermometer (placed at estimated bean height) did not go high enough, so I pulled the plug.

The blanket is encasing the roaster, to simulate it's future working conditioins. The 1 end cap is left without insulation, the other is insulated.
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FirstTest500W.jpg

Internals were placed under the insulation in their approximate locations. I would have built the enclosure smaller yet, however, I was afraid of scorching the beans and wanted to leave room to move the element around.
i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/FirsttestID.jpg

Ambient Temperature: 68 degrees F

The temp is from the exterior thermometer, the inside one is 50 degrees higher (I don't know which one is accurate, or if they are each way off).

Temp Time
(F) (Minutes)
100 1:58
150 2:38
200 3:13
250 3:47
300 4:18
350 4:42
400 5:23
455 6:01
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
rcwarship
John,
Thank you both very much for your comments & suggestions. I hope that I can generate enough heat out of a single element. If not, it can increase it to 3 if needed, while still remain withing the 15 amp self imposed limit. We'll have to see how it goes after I introduce air into the equation. I enjoyed your build log and thought that your design/build is great. Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
Chad,
I love the load/unload feature. Great idea, I just couldn't think of any way to include it in my build. Maybe in the next roaster!

I've made some progress over the past few days, shafting completed for the drum and couplings made. I am not too sure of my ability to get things lined up, so I figured I'd use leather to couple the shafts.

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Couplings.jpg

I turned a couple of maple rounds, roughed out a "trough", hammered a pin (coat hook) in each one so that the pin is just above the surface of the maple. After drilling a hole through the shafts for the pin, a big washer with a couple of screws in it holds it all together & the couplings are done. Just need to add the leather straps after mounting the motor. If the maple fails due to heat, I'll have to find some phenolic or something else (I don't have a way to mill anything, so I can't use metal).

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Couplingopenedout.jpg

Rollers, the drum internals next followed by mounting the oven & motor. Then the long awaited trial to see how the beans move around (angle on the internal vanes, no angle, etc).
Best regards to all,
Jon
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
seedlings
See - isn't roasting coffee simple?

I would love to share your metallurgy skills!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
rcwarship
Chad,

You know the more I research coffee roasting, the more I realize what I don't know. I do know one thing however; I am having fun.

When I hit 45 (about 7 years ago), I discovered that I wasn't having much fun anymore. So I decided that no matter what I was doing it had to be interesting, since then I've been exploring new things to do & build. If it's not fun, I don't do it unless absolutely necessary.

So what does that have to do with building stuff? Actually lots, I used to bang stuff together quickly, to get it done. Now I take my time, & make each component to the best of my ability. I have found that if I build each piece well, the whole project turns out well........unless my design sucks of course. lol My build pace has slowed dramatically, and my enjoyment has expanded exponentially.

Anyways, I'm not sure that my metallurgical skills are that great, but my willingness to do good work is.

What I admire about you is that you are an idea factory, you contribute and are always helping & working with others. You Are The Man.

Best Regards,
Jon
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
rcwarship
Drum support completed, the other end is supported by the motor shaft. It was drawn in a CAD program, Scotch 777 aerosol glue (double stick carpet tape also works well), was used to stick it to the aluminum.

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/CADLayout.jpg

Jig saw cut out, followed by flapper wheeling to smooth it out, shoulder bolts and a couple of bushings (available at the hardware store if one doesn't have a lathe).

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Shoulderbolt.jpg

Finished project with the drum in place. There is so little weight that probably a couple of solid contact points would have worked well (round screw heads or something like that). Anyways, it was fun to do.

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/Rollers.jpg
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
seedlings
Shock WOW!

That should do the trick!

CHAD
Roaster: CoffeeAir II 2# DIY air roaster
Grinder: Vintage Grindmaster 500
Brewers: Vintage Cory DCU DCL, Aeropress, Press, Osaka Titanium pourover
 
rcwarship
I have decided to go for a black & copper look on this roaster, and have just purchased my cooling tray. In addition to the copper, the other major reason that I got this unit is for the builders plaque, it just looks cool.
It's a sieve that is used to sift out the aggregate from concrete samples, they come from something like 1" mesh down to 400 or so mesh per square inch.

I'll be needing to have a heavier perforated plate on the inside to keep the screen from being damaged.

i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/rcwarship_images/CoolerTray.jpg

Best Regards To All,
Jon
Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand.
 
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