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Kaldi Wide First Impressions
Just received my Kaldi Wide off the 'bay. At just over $520, great deal! ...about one third the price of a Fortis, which is what I originally wanted to try but saw this one...

VERY well packed, single boxed but the box is double thickness, seems to have 2 corrugated layers so is the equivalent of a double boxed, plus serious foam inserts for additional protection.

Stainless appears to be 304 through out, and most pieces are highly polished. Nice. The pieces are rather heavy, they use very thick stainless for a very robust, well built machine. I'm a little concerned that there is no forced air flow, but I've just ordered a squirrel cage Dayton to take care of that and will fabricate something for pull through ventilation as well as bean cooling post roast. The stock thermometer is surprising long and analog, so I can't do Artisan roasts with this until I can get some TCs in there. I do have a few 6" TCs lying around, and they are far too short; I ordered a couple 200mm ones and we'll see. Does anyone know where to order that long flexible gooseneck holder?

Tried one seasoning roast so far, no airflow yet. The campstove I used (MSR Universal running white gas) does not have enough BTUs, the roast took waaay too long. I'll have to pick up a propane unit. Will report back in a few! But so far, very pleased with this thing; very nice quality at unbeatable price point.

MSR Universal?
Try kerosene. 35K BTU compared to 25K. (Approximate)
Try 1-K clear. Not lamp oil or kerosene alternative.
Prime with alcohol, and I would prime away from the roaster.
snwcmpr attached the following image:

Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."
Awesome - glad it turned out to be a quality machine!

Have you considered this or similar for heat? https://www.amazo...sic+burner

It would double as a stand for roasting. I've used one for years for everything from canning to applesauce to frying turkeys and it's my main camping burner. It dials down enough to I can skillet cook essentially anything on it. I used a standard 20# tank for home use but have an adapter and as long as it's not on full blast it doesn't freeze 1# camp cylinders.

As far as TC stuff I've been extremely happy in the past with stuff from I would be surprised if you couldn't find what you need.

Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
Yep, I have something very similar to that one, Jon; its about the same price as amazon, so I bought it from my local department store here in Hawaii, didn't want to wait. But now I have to wait for my TCs to get here :( So, its back to the old Poppery I for the next few days. Although I could still do seasoning roasts on the kaldi and not worry too much about quality and just watch the analog temps and my stopwatch and estimate the ROR... hmph. Depends how itchy my fingers get I guess. I got me a whole new learning curve ahead of me to learn drums, all my experience has been on the P1 and a P2. I'm gonna miss the near instant temp correction I can get on an air popper.... but curiosity got the better of me; I want to see if a drum can get better nuances and flavors out of the greens.

Snwcmper, kerosene and diesel burn a little cooler on the MSRs. If you look at the specs, the boil times using paraffin, kerosene or diesel are usually a little longer on the same stove running unleaded gas or white gas; so there is actually less BTUs in kerosene. Yep, I always prime with alcohol, saves some soot scrubbing. The kaldi does fit on the universal MSR, but only just.... I keep worrying about it dropping off, there is like less than a quarter of an inch left on the brackets before the kaldi swallows the MSR (which is a tiny little ultralight campstove) and due to its weight, the kaldi seems like its teetering and swaying up there. Not the most confidence inspiring setup. The cast iron monster I got from the dept store is so sturdy I can jack up my car onto it, no problem.

One thing I noticed is the rpm on the kaldi seems a bit low... I'll paint a white dot on the drum and shoot it with my tachometer and get a reading and rpt back in a little bit. Not that I care, I don't think its adjustable for rpm but maybe a variac is in order. Also, has anyone tried to install a heat isolation block on the rotisserie motor? I'm thinking of cutting up the wife's nylon cutting board... someone... stop.... me... before.... I get... in trouble!
throw a thermocouple in there and roast away! The motor gets hot, but it can take it. I used to do a handful of batches back to back. First few roast will tastes weird until it's seasoned a bit. The airflow is adequate, but I found that it prohibited longer finish times.
I had a typo on my post.
135K for kerosene and 125K for gasoline.

Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."
Nothing wrong with the P1 - a ton of roasts went through mine before I moved on. Heck it's been loaned to a number of people that got them into roasting. The value in that $20odd dollar popper was great. Now it's having a nice retirement in a bin in the garage ThumbsUp
Honey badger 1k, Bunn LPG-2E, Technivorm, Cimbali Max Hybrid, Vibiemme Double Domo V3
OK, I took out the ol sharpie pen and colored the little collar that sticks out the front of the unit (the drum's center ring that rides on the 2 bearings on the front face of the unit) all around except for a little clear space, so there's some color and nice registry for the tach to register on. Turned it on... and it clocks in at exactly 48.8rpm, + or - about 0.1 rpm... hmm, it looked slower when I was watching it. but this is close enough to 50rpm not to matter, so we are good.

I haven't even checked the internals yet, don't know what kind of mixing vanes are inside the drum....
Just checked the inside of the drum and there are 3 mixing vanes inside, running the full length of the drum longitudinally. They are spaced 120 degrees apart and are roughly 3/4" high, simple L shaped brackets running at a slight angle, they are not exactly square to the axis; angled very slightly to push the beans forward toward the exit. But the helix is nowhere near as tight as in a huky... you'll remember this unit does not have a dump door, you have to lift it to dump the beans out. The rear face of the drum is solid, no vent holes.

I have to close off the side holes in this thing, I don't want hot air escaping out the side of the unit... want to channel all the airflow out the front to catch the chaff and aerate the beans/remove smoke but control heat.
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